Insult or critique my first Mig beads

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Have been jacking around with a 120 vac Mig, Lincoln HD3200 (135 amps). Have layed about 5 pounds of flux core with it on various things. Tried true Mig for the first time, to me the beads look alot smoother. .30 wire (ER70s-6) volts on setting "D" (highest) and wire speed at 5 (50%) and 75/25 ar/co2. It's an old piece of 2" schd 40 pipe had laying around that practiced on. Was using a left to right push on the gun (I'm a lefty). Wall thickness of the pipe may be alittle to much for this welder. I'm having a hard time picking up (seeing) when the puddle first forms when I start to weld. Also haven't figured how to get rid of that crtaer at the end. any other suggestions?
Reply:The welds look good.  If you are just Mig welding, you do not have to use 75/25.  You can get away with just 100% CO2.  Save your self a lot of money.
Reply:Beads look OK.  To get rid of the crater, pause at the end of the weld.  Keep the trigger pulled and count.  Figure out how long to count to fill the crater.  I don't know the wall thickness of the pipe.  In MY opinion, any 110 volt mig will barely put out 100 amps no matter what it sez on the label.  Plugging it into a 20 or 25 amp circuit will help.I have found .023 wire works better and is what the machine was built for.  I don't think you get any more amps (heat) from .030 wire.Weld two pieces together and do some "destructive" testing with a vice and wrench or BFH.  See what it will do for your self.You may need a lighter shade lens in your helmet.DavidKeep at it.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by partagasThe welds look good.  If you are just Mig welding, you do not have to use 75/25.  You can get away with just 100% CO2.  Save your self a lot of money.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RBeads look OK.  To get rid of the crater, pause at the end of the weld.  Keep the trigger pulled and count.  Figure out how long to count to fill the crater.  I don't know the wall thickness of the pipe.  In MY opinion, any 110 volt mig will barely put out 100 amps no matter what it sez on the label.  Plugging it into a 20 or 25 amp circuit will help.I have found .023 wire works better and is what the machine was built for.  I don't think you get any more amps (heat) from .030 wire.Weld two pieces together and do some "destructive" testing with a vice and wrench or BFH.  See what it will do for your self.You may need a lighter shade lens in your helmet.DavidKeep at it.
Reply:Originally Posted by dakookThanks. were do you get the CO2 at? Got the 75/25 at TSC they don't have straight CO2. Is the CO2 bottle something a welding supply place will have? Or do I have to look else were. Guess will also have to get the adaptor for the regulator
Reply:The welds look good. The material definitely seems to thick to weld hot enough though which is why the bead looks "bulky"  I would take everybodys advice here, they are all very knowledgeable. Also I would suggest practicing with your less dominant hand, especially if you are just starting out. I am ambidextrous and it helps ALOT when welding out of position or in cramped spaces.  Roy Hodges: Are the box stores you referring to places like Lowes? If so, I agree completely as far as cost and experience goes. If I go there for anything welding related I just get what I need and leave. Usually its on a sunday when the welding supply stores around here are closed and I need contact tips or something small. lol
Reply:To get that crater tol fill in at the end, stop and pause like somebody else said.  Then,  hit the trigger and weld back a half inch to fill it.  That is what I was always taught tp do.