6011 and 6013

admin

I read a lot of stuff, including posts on this forum, about how different 6011 and 6013 are. For some reason, I do not see much difference at all. Maybe sound - I would say, 6013 goes smooth and quiet, like a butter which I spread on my bagel  and 6011 is louder and sharper... it is hard to explain. Still, sound is not such a big deal. The bead is the same, that's what I say. I am using 1/8 rods on a plain mild steel (5/64"). Also tried on 1/8 steel. and 3/8" rebar, still didn't notice any difference. The machine is Lincoln Ac-225, the amps are mostly 75-115. Am I missing something here?Lincoln AC-225-S
Reply:My experience has been that I get better penetration with 6011 and a much cleaner job with 6013.
Reply:bred,You are missing a lot...Take some thin gauge metal and try to weld with it, the 6011 will blow right through. The 6011 has a digging arc,making a flatter bead.  The 6013 has a smooth buttery arc with "good" contour.  The flux is also different.  The 6011 is cellulose based.  It is more difficult to chip off. The 6013 will crack right off with out much effort.  The puddle on the 6011 freezes much faster than the 6013.  The 6011 welds rusty material much better than a 6013 too.Try welding out of position with each one, then come back and tell us what you think.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Totally different arc characteristics. Totally different bead profile and finish.
Reply:i like 6011, i like it  on a/c.. i get a better bead than with 6010 , if i need a fast freeze rod that isnt fussy about clean meetal.. like it vertical up, it freezes and you can whip and  build up  off it ...6013 is too smooth.. often i get slag and puddle mixing...i dont do any thin metal downhill, so i dont really need a 6013..
Reply:Have any of you guys actually tried to use 6013 on thin sheet steel?  By the time I get a nice bead with 3/32" rod it melts through.The tiny 1/16" rods burn away so fast I can't follow fast enough to keep the arc.  Besides, with shaky hands the end of that malenchy rod just won't stay still.  Maybe I need a bobby-pin for a stinger head?With 3/32" 6011 I can whip in and out fast enough to tame down the penetration, stop the burn through and actually get the thing welded.  For real thin stuff I much prefer 3/32" 6011 or 6010.Last edited by Nitesky; 02-11-2009 at 07:58 PM.Reason: Forgot rod sizesGordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:Try the 1/8" 6013 on 130 amps or more.  You will be surprised.  It runs pretty smooth.... Like butter,  you said it  your self.  Keep turning the heat up until the slag stays behind the puddle.  Everybody has a preference.  David Last edited by David R; 02-11-2009 at 08:04 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.