Help with small project

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Peace be on to you dudes,I'm new to welding, never welded anything before, my dad on the other hand did some around 20 years ago.  I did read up on the principals, pattern etc.  Recently i've purchased a Miller 200  and our first project was to build a half way descent welding table, with scrap materials (to keep cost down). I've attached some pictures.  The welding is crap i know, but i just couldn't get the right settings on the machine and always managed to burn right through the tube (any suggestion on how to improve would be appreciated)   So my first question is, what am i doing wrong and why does it burn through, even on the the smaller setting trying to weld in a continuous line would burn through the tube. The thickness varies form .083 and upwards i think to over .121 and i'm using .035 wire. And i'm not using any Argon/CO2. Second question what’s up with the discoloration around the weld? I've seen other people weld stuff and it was nice a clean.  Is it burning to cold ? But if i turn it up higher i cant weld continuously only spot weld.  From what i've been reading this machine is pretty versatile and in the right hands it can do lots of things, however is it too much output? do i need to downgrade to a 110v  to avoid burn through ?  I've tried everything i read and still burned through.I've tried almost all settings on low. On high its defiantly too much Anyways any help, tips would be appreciated. Attached Images
Reply:You need shielding gas. You didn't say it was flux cored wire so you will have too have either co2 or co2/argon mix.
Reply:You mention that you are not using any shielding gas. If you are using solid wire, you may have found part of the answer.Rex
Reply:Did you clean that metal first? one picture appears rusty. Not using argon?? So your using fllux core or solid?really need some more info.addon you may want to practice on some pieces until you become proficient  or at least comfortable with the machineLast edited by specter; 02-16-2009 at 04:44 PM.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Bucilini As others have noted you either need to use a fluxcore selfshielding wire OR you need to run a gas (argon/co2 or 100% CO2) That's most likely why you see the discoloration. FC wire will look like a stick weld, covered with flux that has to be removed after the weld is completed. Gas with solid wire is used to make those "clean" welds you speak of.BTW Nice stamped concrete patio. I can't tell the brand pattern from the picts, possibly Butterfield or Stampcrete. Can't tell I did stamp work for 8 years can you!  Anyhow IF you would like to keep that looking nice, I would find some where else to work. You will find all of your grindings will rust after the 1st heavy dew or rain and the stains will be almost impossible to remove. They will wash into all the low spots and joints. I don't see a heavy shine so either the patio was never sealed or it could use a recoat. IF it has a heavy coat of good sealer you have a semi-decent chance to remove rust stains from grinding / cutting/ spatter etc. By sealer I mean a sealer designed specifically for stamp work NOT Thompson's.DO NOT WASH THE PATIO TO REMOVE THE GRINDINGS! You won't see the particles you leave till it's way too late and they have rusted. Use a leaf blower and work carefully across the patio several times to be sure to have removed all the dust. We had a client who decided that steel wool was the thing to use to scrub off stains left by his patio furniture. Then he washed the patio and had even more stains from all the small metal bits.
Reply:I see in the picture it appears you have the machine set up with the torch positive and the work cable negative, which is the correct polarity for solid wire and gas.  As others said, you need the gas.  May as well not even bother trying to weld with it untill you get the gas, you won't get a good weld out of it no matter how hard you try.  The purpose of the gas is to sheild the weld from contamination by the atmosphere untill the weld solidifies.  Without the gas, you get porosity and poor fusion and basicaly a weld that isn't worth a hoot. If you don't want to get the gas bottle, regulator and hose, then get a roll of fluxcore wire and reverse the polarity on the machine.  Plug the torch into the negative connection and the work cable into the positive connection on the front of the machine.Fluxcore wire is a hollow wire with a powder flux inside the wire that gives off a shielding gas as it burns.  It also creates a slag that sits on top of the weld and further sheilds the weld as it cools, as well as pulls impurities up to the surface. Home Depot sells .030" NR-211 (E71T-11) fluxcore wire in 10-lb spools for about $40.  Lowe's probly sells it for about the same.If you don't know what kind of wire you have, look on the label on the side of the spool.  If it says ER70S-something, you have solid wire.  It will have a copper coating on it most likely.  If it says E71T-something, you have fluxcore wire.  It will be plain grey wire most likely.Last edited by DesertRider33; 02-16-2009 at 05:36 PM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Guys,Thanks for your all your responses, i appreciate it.  As for the wire, pretty sure its not flux core. But i'll check in a few minutes.  I'm going to go to the local welding supply to see how much an argon/co2 setup will cost. And while i'm there i'll pick up a flux core spool to try that out.  Thanks again and i'll try again once the rain stops ( garage is full of junk).
Reply:I've checked the machine and it has a spool or .035 by pinnacle alloys E71T-GS (so i'm not sure its flux if its flux core or not.  Now by using argon or co2 sheilding gas, would that help out so it wont burn through the metal?Just trying to see if i should spend 40 bucks vs something around 150 for an argon tank + regulators.
Reply:Are you planning on welding a lot or just occasionally? Will you be in a shop or outside? If just a little here and there and it will be outside get the fluxcore if you are going to do more get the gas but you will have to stay out of breezes as the shielding gas will be blown away otherwise. Try the fluxcore its not a bad thing to have if you don't want to spend a bunch of money right now and it doesn't go bad. Also do you have a flow meter or regulator for the welder if not that is another expense.
Reply:you have fluxcore, which doesnt require gas, so that was not the problem.you need to practice with that machine, learn to watch the puddle and get a continuous bead of metal flowing ...
Reply:and switch the  polarity..
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33I see in the picture it appears you have the machine set up with the torch positive and the work cable negative, which is the correct polarity for solid wire and gas.  If you don't want to get the gas bottle, regulator and hose, then get a roll of fluxcore wire and reverse the polarity on the machine.  Plug the torch into the negative connection and the work cable into the positive connection on the front of the machine.If you don't know what kind of wire you have, look on the label on the side of the spool.  If it says ER70S-something, you have solid wire.  It will have a copper coating on it most likely.  If it says E71T-something, you have fluxcore wire.  It will be plain grey wire most likely.
Reply:E71T-GS is self shielding fluxcore wire, no gas required.   Plug the torch into the negative connector and the work cable into the positive connector and you will have the right polarity (electrode negative, or straight polarity) to run the fluxcore wire.Fluxcore wire penetrates deeper than solid wire and gas so you'll need to turn down the heat a bit if you're burning through.   That machine is plenty capable of welding the tubing sections you're trying to weld, just need to get the right settings and practice, practice, practice.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Looks like Craig and I were typing at the same time.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Weldbead, Interesting, when i took the machine to the welding supply store they are the ones that installed the wire and setup the polarity.  So i'll switch it and i'll post the resuts. You know i did try to slow down and go in smal arches but i cant weld more than 3 seconds, becuase it will melt the tube and create a hole 3/8".  In the picture i was welding .083 the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2 to the 4x2 (which is probably .121 or higher) and if i was trying to watch the puddle and go in slow arches it would melt through.  Would switching the polarity help ?
Reply:Got it... I'll try it out... soon and let you guys know. If it dosent work i'll just buy a tank/regulator for argon gas, and try it that way.  Its bound to work one way or another. And definalty right about the practice, I need to go to the scrap yard and get more metal
Reply:I notice one more thing in your pics.   Your machine has a few extra controls up toward the top and I see you have all the knobs turned to various settings.  If I remember right from way back when those machines were new, 2 of the controls are for the spot timer and one may be for the inductance.   Turn both the spot timer controls OFF.   The inductance you can leave somewhere around the middle and should be able to weld with it.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:The knob at the top is for 3 settings continuous, spot and pulse.  Its set to continous.  The know below that is for burn back time 0-0.25 the ones below that is for spot time/pulse time and next to it for pulse off time.  From what i've been told those settings are just for the spot and pluse settings.
Reply:I got more curious about those 3 controls at the top of your machine, since my memory is fuzzy, and downloaded the owner's manual for it on the Miller website: http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1303p_mil.pdfThe switch at the top of the machine should be in the continuous position (position 1, according to the manual), rather than the spot or pulsed position.  The second control is for burnback time, leave that one turned OFF for now.  The 2 controls side by side are for spot/pulse on-time (left) and off-time (right).  Turn both of those OFF.In your pic, the weld output cable does appear to be connected to the negative terminal and the work cable does appear to be connected to the positive terminal, which is correct for fluxcore wire.   The 3rd cable is the range selector cable and appears to be connected to the Low range connector, so that should enable you to weld the size metal you're attempting.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I was typing as you were typing.The settings appear to be right, I think you just need to spend more time practicing with it and adjusting the voltage and wire feed speed controls untill you get it welding real welds.By the way, do not flip the voltage adjustment switch while welding.   Only adjust that when there is no arc going.   You can adjust the wire feed speed while welding.On the voltage and wire feed speed adjustments, the manual says for .035 wire and .090 metal thickness in continuous weld mode, use the Low range connector position with the voltage switch on position 6 and the wire feed dial at 40%.   For .063 metal thickness, use position 5 and 30%.  For .120 metal thickness, use the High range connector and voltage position 1 and wire speed at 45%.Hope that helps you out some.Last edited by DesertRider33; 02-16-2009 at 07:36 PM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Also if you get the gas get co2 or co2/argon not straight argon.
Reply:http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1303p_mil.pdfManualEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:By the way, that Millermatic 200 is a neat machine.  I almost bought one when they were new in the early 90's.  I decided on the HTP MIG200 instead though, which I still have here in the shop.   I think you'll like that machine once you get some practicing in with it.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:live and learn , with any luck at all...