Let's Get Analytical LOL

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Y'all know I own a small Lincoln.  It's step adjustable, not infinitely adjustable.  Hobart, and Miller welders this size are infinitely adjustable.I forget who it was that asked me whether I found the 125amp DC side of the machine a limitation.  But here goes.......My method of stickin' stuff together---  On anything at, or below, 1/4 plate I like to use a 1/8 rod.  Anything up to 1/2 plate I like to use a 5/32 rod.  I don't weld anything heavier than 1/2 plate in my work.  On built up welds I like to use 5/32 rod down to as thin as 11ga, same with anything involving filling a deep or wide beveled joint.I've found that I can run 5/32 at higher amps, and get a nicer weld on heavier plate.  It wets(if that's the correct term) in better.  I don't get a high convex bead, while being able to weld slow enough to insure that I get enough heat in the metal.Recently I've switched to almost 100% DC welding.  I used to be AC all the way.There's been some surprises, like arc blow, but in general, I'm sold on DC.Getting back to the original question..........  The limitations of the crackerbox.I'm only addressing the DC side of the machine, not the AC side(which in my opinion, has no limitations for the kind of welding I do)I'm quite happy with the performance on up to 3/16 plate.  The "sweet spot" for Excalibur is around 115amps on my machine for 1/8 rod.  My next available selection is 125amps, which I've found isn't too great for this particular rod.  It's a tiny bit too hot.  And that may be strictly due to my inability to correct travel the speed for the higher amps(I like to travel slow, and burn in a weld).5/32 is out of the question because I'm limited to 125ampsThis is going to be quite a few postsBEAR IN MIND that amp settings on machines vary like the weather.  Use 10 different identical machines, and they all run different.  Same goes with rods.This is a perfect weld by my standards.  105amps, 11ga metal, 1/8 rodMore to come Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Two welds joining 1/4 to 1/4 plate.First weld--- 115amps.  The start is running cold, and by the time the base metal heats up, and the filler heats up, it starts to look good.  A relatively short weld, about 2".Second weld--  125amps.  It starts hot, and finishes hot.  But there's quite a bit of spatter.  In all fairness, this might be due to my tendancy to bury the rod in the base metal.  I like a really short arc.  But, the first weld was done with the same technique, and it's a good looking sound weld. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Two welds joining 3/8 to 1/2 plate.First weld--  115amps, 1/8 rod.  A nice looking weld(for me anyhow), but if you look closely it's a little cool.  But the controlability is good, and no spatterSecond weld--  125amps.  Not a great pic, but you can see the bead is very well wetted in with an even profile.  But there's a ton of spatter.  Too hot for this particular rod. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Now for a different size rod(3/32) in a different situation(filling a gouged joint).  Also a different manufacturer.  This is Hobart rodI don't work much with 3/32 because I don't really work with thinner stuff much.  Also I have a hard time adjusting to the much more rapid burnoff of the smaller rod.  That's just me though.All welds at 90amps.  The machine is able to operate in a wide enough lower range to accomidate the smaller rod, and gaps between lower settings run at 5amp intervals.Joining 1/4 to 1/4 plateEdit..... I used the 3/32 rod because I have a ton of it, and am trying to use it up Attached ImagesLast edited by farmersamm; 03-11-2009 at 02:42 AM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Now to round it out.ONE FOR YOU GUYS TO LAUGH ATThis abomination was made yesterday.  The wind was running at around 25 with higher gusts.  I didn't have anywhere to brace my arms(kind of like shooting "offhand").  In this kind of situation, I brace my elbows against my chest, hips, side, or leg.  Problem was, the wind kept blowin' my skinny butt(that's ok to say I guess) aroundThis one gets the Farmersamm Award Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Almost forgot.  It would be nice to have infinite adjustments, but I'm quite satisfied with the Lincoln.I plan to use 7018AC for thicker material in the future because of the greater power available on that side of the machine"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Samm if all the cows got botulism and keeled over, you could make a healthy living by either welding or making how to videos.  I see nothing wrong in the slightest...No need for self degredation there on those welds.  They are as decent as you can make one...Are they perfect? No. But they are solid and well made and even have those nice and pretty U's to the that are even and regularly spaced.  One question, even though I suspect I know the answer: On the pictures with the slight bevel,  was that a one pass weld or were the V grooves deep enough to allow more than one swipe?Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Originally Posted by lugweldSamm if all the cows got botulism and keeled over, you could make a healthy living by either welding or making how to videos.  I see nothing wrong in the slightest...No need for self degredation there on those welds.  They are as decent as you can make one...Are they perfect? No. But they are solid and well made and even have those nice and pretty U's to the that are even and regularly spaced.  One question, even though I suspect I know the answer: On the pictures with the slight bevel,  was that a one pass weld or were the V grooves deep enough to allow more than one swipe?
Reply:Samm:Nice write-up, good details. Thanks. I didn't know too much heat causes spatter.  Besides the other 2 million things I don't know about stick welding. What rod 7018 or 6013? I know that you're migrating to 7018, but you said you have a ton of 3/32"; which would imply you've had it for a while and so, may be 6013.I'm with Lugweld, although not qualified; I think the welds look good. We are our own worst critics. You've posted your projects which show engineering skills I don't have. You also see engineering faults others have made, and without insulting them, bring their attention to something that may need attention. One of the advantages of being single, is NOT having a woman around calling you an idiot. No reason to do it yourself. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:samm on that last one that u call the abomination..looks like you started  in the left side pulling and got to the corner and then started at the right side and pulled into the corner and turned over top of the first weld's finish? just trying to   read and see how corners get dealt with...