abrasive chop vs band saw vs ???

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What is the most practical saw to get first?  What would be the advantages of one over the other (band saw having a narrower kerf is obvious, but what else)? I am just starting to get into metal working so wont be using heavily, I have a compound miter, but don't think it is a good idea to run abrasive on one . . . As a follow up, what would be a decent but inexpensive brand??? (if not a contradiction in terms)fredLast edited by fredf; 04-21-2009 at 06:06 PM.
Reply:horizontal band saw definitely, they dont throw sparks, they do leave a lot of metal shavings but at least they are shavings and not dust, you can run an abrasive disc on a miter saw but its dangerous because miter saws for wood spin super fast, chop saws for cutting steel spin slower and abrasive discs are rated for a certain speed.if you are going to use an abrasive wheel on your miter saw, make some kind of plexiglass sheild on the back of the saw incase the disc explodes, its definitely scary when that happens
Reply:4x6 Harbor freight band saw all the way. It is the same money as a good chop saw and a good blade will last a long time.limegreentj Nailed it. Plus the noise of a chop saw is pretty bad. I have great neighbors, they never said anything but I think the chop saw  got on there nerves.The band saw is clean and quite. You will have to build a new stand for the bandsaw because the one it comes with is pretty light.
Reply:I've done some cutting with 4-1/2" and 10" abrasive blades and it's really unpleasant.  I wear a face shield and a respirator, for both the cutting and the clean-up.The cold cut saws are a thousand times better, and they don't have to be crazy expensive.  Evolution makes a 7-1/4" model that you can get for something like $185 delivered.  It will handle lighter-weight metal jobs without the abrasive crap ending up all over your shop.  Evolution also makes 10-inch and 14-inch models.  The prices are pretty reasonable, considering their speed (and hassle) advantages over a cheap HF band saw.I recently bought the Harbor Freight 4x6 band saw, but I've decided to take it back.  Instead, I got a Milwaukee 6190-20 cold cut saw for $279.  The price was low because it doesn't come with a blade, but I can get Freud Diablo metal cutting blades for $38 on Ebay.  That makes for a pretty-much no-compromise cold cut setup for under $400.But I also tested a Freud Diablo blade with my old 10-inch miter saw and I was pretty amazed at how easily it went through 1/4"-thick angle stock with no sparks and no drama.  It's just like cutting wood, but it's 1/4"-thick steel.  The downside with my 5000-rpm miter saw is that I might be reduing the lifespan of the blade.  But I paid $25 for the blade.  It will be interesting to see how long it lasts -- the Milwaukee might prove to have been an unnecessary indulgence.
Reply:to add another point....i did some production chop sawing at work, at the end of the day, even with hearing protection you were deaf, you stunk like metal, you had it in your nose and mouth-even with a respirator, and your clothes and back and neck are itchy from the dust everywhere....it was seriously miserableAHP alphatig 200xclarke 130en MIG (first welder i ever bought)NT Plasma 375craftsman 240/180 ac/dc ARCcustom 60x30x30 powder coating ovenhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Rossi...18853401526643
Reply:I've got a chopsaw and a 4x6 HF bandsaw. I'm currently only able to use the chopsaw, as I've burnt the motor up on the HF. To sum it up for you, I desperately need to fix the HF!! Hillbilly Fabworks
Reply:Both have there place, for smaller material I prefer the chop saw as they are quite fast. I would save up for a larger horizontal band saw for serious work and go with the chop saw for now if I were you. The chop saw is portable, fast and relatively cheap. Keep your wood working equipment for wood, you'll only ruin it on metal. I'm usually dirty anyhow so the chop saw doesn't bother me
Reply:Originally Posted by BNFI've got a chopsaw and a 4x6 HF bandsaw. I'm currently only able to use the chopsaw, as I've burnt the motor up on the HF. To sum it up for you, I desperately need to fix the HF!!
Reply:I use the chop saw only when I buy steel. I cut the steel in 8' sections and stick it out he car window. Yes it is redneck, but I got to be me.
Reply:Do not try and use a cold cut blade (Freud Diablo Steel Demon) on a woodworking miter saw.  Extremely dangerous.  Blade was not designed for the RPM the saw develops.This was a "dangerous suggestion" by an ill informed poster.  When those carbide teeth come off, they'll take out anything in sight, including your eyesight.  Might as well be shot with a .22 caliber armor piercing bullet.  Manufacturer of that blade cautions against using the blade in the WRONG saws.And this comment/suggestion comes from a poster who wears eye and breathing protection when using a chop saw.  Someone needs to get their priorities in order.  It's not a matter of whether that saw will "loose a tooth", it's a question of when.Unfortunately, there's no filter on the boards for STUPID SUGGESTIONS.THIS IS NOT A FLAME.  JUST A COMMON SENSE OBSERVATION.  I'd strongly recommend that the poster remove that comment in the observance of safety.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:SundownIIII agree 100%. I would like to see that on the tv show "time warp" taht blade would sling steel every place.
Reply:if you are refering to me, i never suggested a steel blade, i said an abrasive wheel, just like a cutoff wheel for an air tool, only bigger....i never said anything about a steel bladeedit: i just read the comment that was not posted by me, my mistake.AHP alphatig 200xclarke 130en MIG (first welder i ever bought)NT Plasma 375craftsman 240/180 ac/dc ARCcustom 60x30x30 powder coating ovenhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Rossi...18853401526643
Reply:He's referring to me.  If I could edit the post, I would.  But the way this BBS is set up, there's a time limit on when you can still edit something you've posted.  Still, let me take publicly back the suggestion that a miter saw and a low-RPM blade is a smart way to cut steel.
Reply:DO NOT i repeat DO NOT use a metal cutting abrasive blade on a wood saw!!!!!!!You can get seriously hurt. The steel MUST BE CLAMPED DOWN!!!NEVER try on a compound miter saw either!!!! YOU WILL GET A TRIP TO THE HOSPITAL.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Get a Milwaukee Deep Cut Portaband.  $280.  You will not be sorry.  I only use an abrasive saw for rebar or when I am in a big hurry and just want it whacked off.
Reply:Does anyone have any experience with a Clarke Metal Cutting Band Saw, 4.5 in from tractor supply or the Grizzly G0622 4" x 6" Metal-Cutting Bandsaw  or for that matter the red  HF ITEM 93762-5VGA??the Clark looks a lot like the red  HF ITEM 93762-5VGA might not be much improvementThe grizzly is $339 with shipping -- it may just be worth the extra $90fred
Reply:Definately the band saw.  If you want to cut small stuff fast, try finding an ironworker from an auction. ( I got one for $750 )The best things in life all come on a stick!
Reply:Just to throw a little gasoline on the fire, here's a video clip of a $29 circular saw being used to cut 3/16 steel.  The positives are that it's ridiculously cheap (net investment: $20 for an Ebay Freud Diablo blade), and that a dry-cut blade makes a nice clean cut with no slag and none of the dust or lingering 'muffler shop smell' in the garage.  The negatives are that a Harbor Freight circular saw designed for wood is probably not going to last long cutting steel, and -- even though the blade is rated for more rpms (5800) than than the 5000 this saw can generate -- I suspect the blade will get dull a lot sooner than one being used with a 1400 rpm motor like an Evolution or Milwaukee dry cut saw.  I have a Milwakee 61190-20 dry cut chop-style saw on its way.  For ~$300, it's not too much more expensive than a cheap band saw, and it won't be nearly as slow.  (I briefly brought home the $200 Harbor Freight saw, but decided I didn't want to wrestle with all the issues reported by people on the Yahoo group devoted to it.  So I sent it back and went scratching around Ebay for a good deal on the Milwaukee.) Attached Images
Reply:Jack  -- Two  thoughts re  the video, 1) can pick up saws on craigs list better than HF for less  2) a spray bottle of coolant (I have seen wd40 used even: smokes but would cool the blade) (would probably need a helper tho) would probably extend the life of the blade. for a sheet like that you don't have much choice other than ox-acet or plasma
Reply:or if you have a shear in your shop, but those are SUPER expensive, but i agree with the coolant ideaAHP alphatig 200xclarke 130en MIG (first welder i ever bought)NT Plasma 375craftsman 240/180 ac/dc ARCcustom 60x30x30 powder coating ovenhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Rossi...18853401526643
Reply:Big difference between using a blade in a skilsaw (used as an example only) and putting a cold cut blade on a woodworking miter saw.  Those blades were designed for the task at hand.I have used the Morse, Bullet, Freud, etc. metal cutting blades in a cheap ($50 or so) skilsaw.  Results were very good and the blades seem to last a good while.  Lot of sharp slivers are thrown though so wear a full face mask and leather jacket.To move up, look at the Milwaukee 8" Metal Cutting Saw.  Has a metal shield, SS base, and a catch for slivers.  Much better way to cut plate.  The 8" Milwaukee blades seem to last a good while.  Come in two versions.  One for thin plate, and one for 1/4" and thicker.  The cut edge does not require any additional prep, which is not always the case with a plasma cut edge.  This is my "go to" saw for cutting aluminum plate with a blade designed for cutting aluminum.Bottom line.  No one saw does everything "best".Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:fredf,After all the discussion I went back and read your original question.  To answer that question:Buy a good quality (Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Rigid, etc) chop saw.  Not much it won't cut.  Not the fastest, not the cleanest, not the quietest, but best overall.  Here's a few examples (not all by any means)1.  SS boat shafts-Knock the teeth right off a cold cut saw.  Eat a bandsaw blade faster than you can put them on.2.  Rebar/bedframes (mystery metal)  Don't even try with a cold cut saw.etc, etc, etc.Chop saw with a quality disc will do nearly everything a small shop could want.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by fredfJack  -- Two  thoughts re  the video, 1) can pick up saws on craigs list better than HF for less  2) a spray bottle of coolant (I have seen wd40 used even: smokes but would cool the blade) (would probably need a helper tho) would probably extend the life of the blade. for a sheet like that you don't have much choice other than ox-acet or plasma