Steel Counter Tops?

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I recently remodeled my 1000sqft home.  Without financing the project was done out of pocket so I tried to do all the work I could on my own.  Being a woodworker by trade the finish carpentry, cabinets and doors came easy.  I also have a small passion with metal and tried to incorporate metal details throughout the house.  I decieded to save some money and installed steel counter tops in my kitchen.  I doubled up two sheets of 3/4 plywood, nosed it with 1/8 x 1 1/2 flat stock and to finish it off laid a 1/16 sheet over the top.  It really turned out great and it only cost me $200!   Ok, on to my question...What would be the best finish to apply.  I originally used bioshield and it has seemed to work for the first six months.  I am  now starting to see rust around the sink (go figure!)  Anything replies would be greatly appreciated.  Oh ya, I'm trying to stay away from any laquer or spray as it is already installed.  Thanks again...Side note:  I'm an addict of both the woodweb and the weldingweb forums and I have to say in general you folks are more helpfull and just plain nice.  Most replies on the woodweb end up in some smash mouth banter!  ie.  What an idiot!  Who installs steel countertops in the kitchen!
Reply:Yer gonna be chasing that rust forever.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I know running a low current through the metal will inhibit rusting, like they do with rebar in salt water, but I don't know the specifics and I don't know how it would work with a counter. Timed circuit for middle of the night? Ruth
Reply:hook a 120VAC house current to the counter with an old toaster cord. that should ward off any rust. lolthere are a number of ways to do it, but brocolli is right: you WILL be dealing with it for life. this is one of the reasons that SS and aluminum are used in most kitchen items, especially commercial kitchens.#1, degrease the top and remove the rust via your method of choice... chemical removal, sand it, steel wool, etc. the choice is yours as long as you get all the rust up. any residual rust will spread relatively quickly.#2, apply the coating of your choice. here are a few options:1.) Paste-form carnuba wax (floor or car wax). put a good coat on the counter like you would put on the floor or on your car. wipe off excess and let it be.2.) probably not the most desired coating, WD-40. it will stink, and probably contaminate your food, but it will keep rust away.3.) there are also a number of commercially available coating products out there for things like table-saws, gun bores, drill press tops, etc. none of which will probably smell the best, and more than likely they are toxic.after you apply the coating, just keep up on the maintenance and don't cut/set your food directly on the counter.one other option would be to give it a brushed finish and keep a pile of steel-wool around. brush it now and give it a consistent appearance, then as it rusts in the future, you won't notice all the steel wool marks on the top. SS wool will probably last longer, but it is more expensive. it won't rust under the sink in the cabinet like MS wool will, but you will still need to just throw it away after you use it. it is also going to be more abrasive than the equivalent MS wool course-ness (if that's the proper term). if you use the steel wool, instead of let's say, sand paper, you will remove less excess material when you remove the rust each time.another option would be to remove the current tops and do it the right way with SS or aluminum. it's more work and more expensive, but it will last a lot longer than the MS will. especially with only having 1/16" of MS down, you will be going through that pretty fast.Miller TB302Miller Spectrum 1000Miller Spectrum 1251XMT 456 CC/CVCoolmate 4D-74D Dual Wire Feeder2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Chassis Cab (Cummins of course)
Reply:Honestly- the only option I would consider is Tiling over the Mild Steel or placing some SS over it.I wouldn't want any of those treatments around a Food prep area.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Just out of curiosity, have any pics?The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:You could clean it up and put a coat of tru oil. The oil used for guns. It puts a coating on it that gets hard. I use it on my carbon steel knives and it has lasted for about 7 years on one knife without toughing it again. This is a knife that does not get used so the tru oil will not last that long on a surface that is used like a counter top but you could put a couple coats on right around the sink and it may postpone things for longer periods of time. Use cutting boards for your food prep and I would think you would be in decent shape.
Reply:You could clean it well with phosphoric acid, then coat the dry metal with something like POR-15 which is a rubber-like material. It might be a bit strange looking, but would make the counter 'quieter' when dishes are set on it. The material isn't UV resistant but I assume the counter gets little direct sun through open windows, so should last a fair number of years, I'd expect.I would say that it's a bit late to try electroplating with Nickel, Chrome or Gold, at this point. Copper might have been nice too, but some people can taste it when food reacts from sitting on its surface.
Reply:ffood prep ====no chemicalssteel wool should take 10 minutes to derust, you aint tryin to remove metal..
Reply:Try something like a a professional culinary site. Most professional kitchens have stainless steel throughout the kitchen. They must use something to keep it spotless. Try this site http://www.stainlessliving.comLast edited by specter; 04-26-2009 at 08:16 AM.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadffood prep ====no chemicalssteel wool should take 10 minutes to derust, you aint tryin to remove metal..
Reply:ffood prep ====no chemicals
Reply:Consider grounding that countertop just incase an errant toaster show short out.   People walk around a kitchen bear footed and may get a little tingle or worse when they touch the countertop.   Maybe a light coating of PAM will hold off the rust.
Reply:I would have done it in stainless to begin with.   I've never heard of anyone using plain old carbon steel for a kitchen countertop.   I think you're going to find yourself ripping out that steel and replacing with stainless, or something completely different (not metal).   Granite is always an excellent choice for kitchen countertops.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I don't think the OP really wants any helpNot a peep outta himEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:He's too busy cleaning rust Broc! Man, this reminds me of the Hindenburg Fire!, Fire! Oh wait, that's my torch...Lincoln PT-225 TIGLincoln 175 MIG
Reply:It reminds me of the Hunley...MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Believe me, I am listening.  I thought I might let the post go for the weekend before I responded.  I thank you for all the replies and advice.  Hopefully, this is a starter home for me and I personally will not be ripping out the counters!  I know granite and stainless are typical countertop finishes but like I said I was looking for something a little different.  I think constant applications is what is in store for me.  No turning back now it looks great and my wife loves it the way it is (minus the rust).  I will try to post some pics tonight.  I want to thank you all again for your responses and also for not outright bashing my decision.
Reply:I would clean w/phosphoric acid then apply zinc chromate primer.Finish with epoxy paint. Also you might want to attach some zincs (sacrificial metal{used on boats and boilers to stop corrosion} available at your marina) .A butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Hmmm, I do believe that a steel countertop in a kitchen area actually MUST be grounded per the electrical code requirements.  I don't feel like looking up chapter and verse.Plain steel rusts.  Plain steel with water or food around or on it can rust pretty fast.Almost any surface treatment applied to the plain steel would NOT be food safe.Which is why stainless steel typically is used for counters and not plain steel.Plain steel is really the wrong material for the application.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Almost any surface treatment applied to the plain steel would NOT be food safe.
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2Properly applied Epoxy paint or a clear polyurethane would be perfectly safe for a counter top'; it won't hold up to being used as a cutting surface or the inside of a cooking pot, but isn't going to 'leach' any toxic materials into  food sitting on it for short periods of time. People are exposed to far worse chemicals in the hair sprays and from out-gassing of all the other plastic materials they have around the home, let alone the toxic compounds naturally in the environment, including the foods we eat. BTW, there are food-grade epoxies available if you want to be super-careful.
Reply:with all due respect, food grade epoxy myasssss..ss... i bet if the executives of the corporation selling that product were to  eat foods from vessels lined with it they'd out gas plenty...until the surgeons cut out the lumps and plumbed the tubes back together with a bandage-grade epoxy...
Reply:Just get a piece of glass cut to match the counter top sizeEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Just get a piece of glass cut to match the counter top sizeOriginally Posted by weldbeadwith all due respect, food grade epoxy myasssss..ss... i bet if the executives of the corporation selling that product were to  eat foods from vessels lined with it they'd out gas plenty...until the surgeons cut out the lumps and plumbed the tubes back together with a bandage-grade epoxy...
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanReally?What do you think lines the inside of tin/steel cans, and aluminum beverage containers?The glass cover is an interesting idea, but may prove untenable around the sink.Oh, and never cut on tempered glass.  It not only scratches more easily than untempered glass, but all glass (and stone) cutting surfaces really kill the edges on your knives.Anyway, what about a clear polyurethane finish?
Reply:MoonRise,Does the countertop really need to be grounded?  My wife could use some shock therapy but this may be a little over the top.
Reply:Originally Posted by preecebenMoonRise,Does the countertop really need to be grounded?  My wife could use some shock therapy but this may be a little over the top.
Reply:Wax it with a carnuba wax and then cover in Plexiglas. The whole counter would be a cutting board.