Manual Tig Pulsing..

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I have an older syncrowave 180sd, so it doesn't have any automatic pulsing.  I thought pulsing was only something weldors do when they weld aluminum.  basically, i want to know when you're suppose to give it more juice.I was around when someone was welding aluminum with the same syncrowave 180 i have, and he was pulsing.  so i try to imitate the rhythm with the amp setting at 130 welding 1/8 inch aluminum:1. stomp down on pedal all the way (80-100%) til i get a puddle.2. move torch forward, then pause the torch3. back down to 50% on pedal while adding filler4. stomp down on pedal while moving forwardrepeat 3, then 4. until i finish the weld.is this right?that sounds really convoluted, basically, i'm giving it more juice while i'm moving the puddle.  Backing off while i add filler.is this procedure the same for steel as well?for steel, what i've been doing is pretty much IDENTICAL to what i've been doing while oxy/ace welding.  Only minor pedal adjustments during the weld and backing off the pedal when i come to the end of a weld.... so, no pulse.is pulsing on aluminum even necessary on alu?  what's the advantage/disadvantages of "pulsing" (well, proper pulsing, if i'm doing it wrong).?please enlighten.
Reply:"Pedal Pumpers" are loved and hated. Some goofball once thought that the real aggressive dips on aluminum was good(they are not) and took it to the next level. I have destroyed a lot of coupons showing students that pedal pumping is not needed, and a higher melting rate is better for weld strength. More dips with less vertical variation is best for size of weld accuracy and notch effect. I have seen this pulsing done so bad there were cracks between each step.I do not recommend it, but if you are going to do it, have the pedal floored for the filler additions, not what you do right now. You need to the heat to try to get any real fusion.A steady amperage will serve you better. If you think you need to reduce heat input for retaining heat treatments, get an inverter to modify the arc to mostly penetrating and less cleaning. The real answer is post-weld heat treating again to specs(such as t-6), not fudging the weld.My philosophy has always been the smallest filler rod possible, and the least amount of heat needed to obtain complete fusion. Bigger rods require more heat to melt.Also note that over-welding is one of the industries least looked-at but best payback problems. Of course, this is my opinion, based on my experiences.
Reply:hmm.  it seems gimmicky now.  I'm able to get a pretty descent weld with steady (with minor adjustment here & there) on steel.  steady seems to work on alu as well.  I can see how "pedal pumping" would be gimmicky.  I just don't know the purpose of it (im a noob) & thought it was supppse to be that way.  ZTFab (paul) has drill the bit about using the smallest filler rod possible for the job into my thick skull (stocked up on .030 & .045 and a few 3/16 rods).  we just haven't got around to alu yet.  I've been busy with job.any other thoughts on pedal pumping?
Reply:Look into getting a miller pc 300.  Your local distributor should help with any hook ups.  This or something like it that is similar will save you a ton of trouble.  Pedal pumping is very inconsistant no matter how good you get at it.  Pulsing with the right equipment on various metals looks good and is sound.Pulsing machines allow perfect control of the arc at high and low intervals.  Your beads will look robotic if done correctly.  There are many techniques you can use.  Ask around, practice, adjust, and have fun.
Reply:Originally Posted by oxy moronhmm.  it seems gimmicky now.  I'm able to get a pretty descent weld with steady (with minor adjustment here & there) on steel.  steady seems to work on alu as well.  I can see how "pedal pumping" would be gimmicky.  I just don't know the purpose of it (im a noob) & thought it was supppse to be that way.  ZTFab (paul) has drill the bit about using the smallest filler rod possible for the job into my thick skull (stocked up on .030 & .045 and a few 3/16 rods).  we just haven't got around to alu yet.  I've been busy with job.any other thoughts on pedal pumping?
Reply:Get yourself some 1/16-3/32 rod crank that thing up, put your foot to the floor and weld.Pulsing may be neccesary if you are trying to weld something with critical dimensions or are worried about,warping the material.If so,use pulse. I will usually set the Maxstar 700 at 400PPS 550amps for joining stainless to copper with Al Brz, Due to the need for a more constricted and focused arc onto the copper.Welders have welded many years without, but the high pitch noise is a little annoying after 8hrs though!"My fingernails are melting"
Reply:Oxy Moron,Forget the "pedal pumping" on aluminum.In fact, forget pulsing on aluminum.  Learn the basic movements/technique before you try to employ gimmicks.I agree wholeheartedly with Sn0 regarding the filler.  You'll never get that iddy bitty stuff to the puddle with the amps you need for welding 1/8" aluminum.What you've probably seen is some other "rookie" trying to imitate a pro who was bump welding anodized aluminum.  Different ballgame here altogether.  On anodized an on/off button is employed to inititate the arc.  Amp settings are way higher than you would normally see (195-210A).  The basic reason is that the high amps blast the oxide (anodized) layer leaving a puddle of clear aluminum.  Add filler.  Let off the button.  Move forward, repeat.  (a little more to it but that's the basic idea).Before you try to imitate someone, make sure they know what they're doing.  Doesn't sound like that was the case here.  I've been welding aluminum for "a long time" and I don't think I've ever seen a good welder (and I've seen some of the best tiggers out there) stomping the pedal.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:opps.  030 & 045 are steel stuff.  er70-2s.  alu rods are 3/32 and 1/16.  ya the 1/16 stuff melts too quickly.  I'm developing bad habits (stabbing 1/16 alu rod instead of dipping proper, larger size rod).definitely working on basic chops.  pulsing is just experiments.  they usually turns out fugly.  steady is prettier, for now
Reply:Originally Posted by oxy moronopps.  030 & 045 are steel stuff.  er70-2s.  alu rods are 3/32 and 1/16.  ya the 1/16 stuff melts too quickly.  I'm developing bad habits (stabbing 1/16 alu rod instead of dipping proper, larger size rod).definitely working on basic chops.  pulsing is just experiments.  they usually turns out fugly.  steady is prettier, for now