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Hello,I am using a miller 330 a/bp, I am using brown and green tungstens, I am using 1/16ths everything, the filler I have is from HTP.I have been running a lot of fake beads for practice on aluminum, they are coming out alright for the most part but I seem to be seeing a strange anomaly fairly consistently.Here is how I prep for a weld. Primarily my method of preparing a tungsten is not grinding, I have 4 very fine grinding wheels up to 600 grit but I feel it is difficult to come close to matching sodium nitrite. Plus I get to light a flame in my garage, adding a little extra heat in these cold days of November doesn't sound too bad. After I form a nice slightly long taper I put in the tungsten and tighten everything, I then use a stainless steel scrubby pad to run over the filler a few times. After I run the filler over I then dampen a paper towel with acetone and wipe the filler down. I then take a stainless steel brush and scrub the area fairly well, soak it with acetone and wipe it down with a paper towel once or twice. I turn on my argon, water pump and welder and sit down.I start the weld and as soon as I see it getting shiny I start adding filler. It seems that these little specs are sitting within the filler (I believe it is er4043). The piece of aluminum I am running beads on is 1/16 of an unknown alloy. My guess is that the specs are oxidized aluminum but I can't imagine how this could be.In order to really see, you'll have to open the image. The top three horizontal beads all have some of these specs in them.You should be able to make out the weird splotches fairly well in this one. Is this a case of something to do with angle, argon, or maybe the filler? Any guesses or knowledge would be appreciated.Miller 330 a/bp water cooledI believe in gun control, I hold my gun with two hands. If you want to know why, click here.Buy American or bye America.
Reply:looks like porosity (air in the weld) that had it to the surface.http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...GMAW-Welds.cfmLast edited by MudHog; 11-17-2009 at 06:47 AM.Miller:Millermatic 252Dialarc 250Thunderbolt 225Syncrowave 180 SDSuper S-32PSCP-200CHF-15-1225D Plus225G PlusBig D2Lincoln:Arc Welder SA-200Victor:315FC setup with fullsize bottlesJ-28 setup as portable
Reply:Try putting a ball on green tungsten. Don't sharpen tungsten for aluminum Tig.6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Originally Posted by MudHoglooks like porosity (air in the weld) that had it to the surface.http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...GMAW-Welds.cfm
Reply:I stumbled on this website and been doing some reading on the different pages. I can't see the videos as they are blocked via our web filter here at my office. 10. Balling the electrode
never ball the electrode. Just round it.. the ball shouldnt resemble a monkey fist or tootsie roll pop. A big ball on the end of the electrode is like wearing two condoms. Who needs that?
Reply:When you tig weld aluminum and there is some sort of contamination on the surface of the base metal or filler wire typically that contamination will float to the surface. It’s difficult to tell from the pics you have but that would be my guess what those spots are.
Reply:try to keep your filler in the gas flow if pulled out of flowthat can contaminate when you go to add filler againidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Originally Posted by EyesolatorWhen you tig weld aluminum and there is some sort of contamination on the surface of the base metal or filler wire typically that contamination will float to the surface. Its difficult to tell from the pics you have but that would be my guess what those spots are.
Reply:Originally Posted by pinjasYeah, the specs are a slightly different color, it is difficult to get a good shot of them though. They look like a slightly darker metal. I feel like that might be it, not porosity.I am using a #5 nozzle which is a pretty narrow one, I was thinking that perhaps I should try and use a larger one or even try out a gas lens to see if it continues as my thoughts were the same on this. I have been trying real hard to prevent that idea from occuring but I don't really know how not to. I suppose this isn't too uncommon, people likely just grind it right off the surface. Thanks.
Reply:Some people say that sandy appearance is characteristic of 4340 material, switch to 5356 and see if the problem persists.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Maybe its just my old eyes but it looks like your beads are not built up, or that you were getting drop through? If so it may be simply too much heat, which will make dull and sandy looking beads. Try backing off on amps and travel faster.Peter
Reply:Putting a ball on a green tungsten for aluminum TIG welding.It cost me plenty of money , time, practical application, and a documented education, to learn the things I have about welding. Why should I offer free advise? Other than,,,go to School.6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Originally Posted by CofePutting a ball on a green tungsten for aluminum TIG welding.It cost me plenty of money , time, practical application, and a documented education, to learn the things I have about welding. Why should I offer free advise? Other than,,,go to School.
Reply:maybe try a cloth rag paper maybe leaving a trace of paper behind (lint)plus you can reuse the cloth over and overidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Originally Posted by pinjasHello,I am using a miller 330 a/bp, I am using brown and green tungstens, I am using 1/16ths everything, the filler I have is from HTP.I have been running a lot of fake beads for practice on aluminum, they are coming out alright for the most part but I seem to be seeing a strange anomaly fairly consistently.Here is how I prep for a weld. Primarily my method of preparing a tungsten is not grinding, I have 4 very fine grinding wheels up to 600 grit but I feel it is difficult to come close to matching sodium nitrite. Plus I get to light a flame in my garage, adding a little extra heat in these cold days of November doesn't sound too bad. After I form a nice slightly long taper I put in the tungsten and tighten everything, I then use a stainless steel scrubby pad to run over the filler a few times. After I run the filler over I then dampen a paper towel with acetone and wipe the filler down. I then take a stainless steel brush and scrub the area fairly well, soak it with acetone and wipe it down with a paper towel once or twice. I turn on my argon, water pump and welder and sit down.I start the weld and as soon as I see it getting shiny I start adding filler. It seems that these little specs are sitting within the filler (I believe it is er4043). The piece of aluminum I am running beads on is 1/16 of an unknown alloy. My guess is that the specs are oxidized aluminum but I can't imagine how this could be.In order to really see, you'll have to open the image. The top three horizontal beads all have some of these specs in them.You should be able to make out the weird splotches fairly well in this one. Is this a case of something to do with angle, argon, or maybe the filler? Any guesses or knowledge would be appreciated.
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Some people say that sandy appearance is characteristic of 4340 material, switch to 5356 and see if the problem persists.
Reply:I have been getting sandy looking welds as well. I don't have a whole lot of experience with alum and the last time I welded it was a couple years ago at the shop I used to work at and don't know the rod we used. I am using 4043 now and getting the sandy texture in most my welds. The grits aren't a different color though as pinjas described. They are the same color just a little sandy textured.Doesn't seem to do it when I just make a puddle w no filler.I might try 5356 just to see how it behaves.
Reply:Originally Posted by JohnnyWelderyour welds are contaminated. You are probably touching the filler to the tungsten. Dont say your not because the proof is in the welds. Dont question me, I am the best. Keep your filler rod inside the gas cloud and dont TOUCH THE TUNGSTEN. The other steps of cleaning this with that, obviously are not working. So stop wasting your time.
Reply:OH MY SHT!!!! Unless I missed this I will delete this right quick but I dont think so.
Reply:Ok.. here is the problem..can anybody spot it??"I have been running a lot of fake beads for practice on aluminum, they are coming out alright for the most part but I seem to be seeing a strange anomaly fairly consistently.Here is how I prep for a weld. Primarily my method of preparing a tungsten is not grinding, I have 4 very fine grinding wheels up to 600 grit but I feel it is difficult to come close to matching sodium nitrite. Plus I get to light a flame in my garage, adding a little extra heat in these cold days of November doesn't sound too bad. After I form a nice slightly long taper I put in the tungsten and tighten everything, I then use a stainless steel scrubby pad to run over the filler a few times. After I run the filler over I then dampen a paper towel with acetone and wipe the filler down. I then take a stainless steel brush and scrub the area fairly well, soak it with acetone and wipe it down with a paper towel once or twice. I turn on my argon, water pump and welder and sit down." Anything STAINLESS with ALUMINUM is bad...case closed!!!
Reply:Where did you hear that? I've never that you shouldn't use stainless steel brushes on aluminum before. In fact it seems to be a standard that you clean aluminum with a stainless steel brush, almost like an enforced law of welding. I've read this on many websites and posts on this forum. Here is a example source.http://classic.artsautomotive.com/HowToWeldAluminum.htm"6. A dedicated stainless steel brush that you only use for aluminum. Write aluminum on it so it doesnt get used for anything else."Am I misunderstanding something?I don't know why everyone says to use stainless steel, I've tried finding that answer myself but come up with nothing, but I do know that this is the first time I have ever heard something like this. What should one use for prepping a weld on aluminum?Miller 330 a/bp water cooledI believe in gun control, I hold my gun with two hands. If you want to know why, click here.Buy American or bye America.
Reply:The stainless steel brush is not the problem. Its cross contamination, that is, you must have a dedicated set of brushes only to be used to clean aluminum and for nothing else. I wonder if there could be contamination when grinding the tungstens?
Reply:The filler metal may be contaminated itself. Id try it with a newer one or clean the filler metal. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:40:58