I've got a patent pending, yippee!

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The downside is it'll take some work from weldors.  Upside is it'll get some non-weldors working with metal which will make them want to become weldors!What I'd like is some feedback from ya'll.  Pros, cons, considerations and generally how you see it.A little history.  I started off learning to weld because my father got tired of gluing together my little projects.  He was the gate man at a large fence company in Southern California.  So my orientation has been from the fence perspective when it comes to fabricating.I've taken a lot of the concepts used in fencing into small building construction.  That has evolved over time to the point of where I've came up with a system that enables a non-weldor to build a good building.  Or simplified the process to where a weldor can build a good building by supplementing welding to the process.Here's a photo of the cornerstone of the process. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:That bracket and the system that goes with it can produce this kind of a framework. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:So...what it does is put a tab on a pole that can then be locked (sorta) into place on chanel to form the bones of a metal building without welding (or at least initially)?Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Originally Posted by smithboySo...what it does is put a tab on a pole that can then be locked (sorta) into place on chanel to form the bones of a metal building without welding (or at least initially)?
Reply:Here's how a corner looks from below. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:I've got to go.  But in a nutshell the brackets for framing come in rights, lefts, and straights for attaching to two and three eighths pipe.  There is also a bracket that takes advantage of the C purling configuration to enable the builder to cut in doors, windows, purlins, rafters, and making trusses.I'll get back later with more descriptions and pictures. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:Hey harv,The only thing I think I would do, which you may already have done, is run those self tappers buy a variety of inspection/engineering/architectural folks to see what hurdles you might encounter getting them accepted by local authorities over a wide area or accross several states. Maybe there are only one or two grades and sizes that will be acceptable, maybe there will only be one or two not acceptable. Have that data ready and available as part of the package.Things like minimum size, head size, coating, grade, protrusion, spacing, shear, all calcs, etc..The reason I say this is when you do get ready to roll, you are going to need a full MOP (method of procedure) for approved installation. I know these things won't affect a patent acquisition but they will affect sale-ability. ???????????????????
Reply:We are going to have it all engineered, well we'll have to get approvals in the different municipalities etc.Here's the advantages of the system.1.  Usually when you have a metal building built you have to build a stick (conventional framing with lumber) inside wall to finsh out.  With my system you don't.  The four inch purlin takes the outer skin on one side and will accept sheetrock or other interior alternatives on the other.  The four inch thickness allows one to use conventional insulation (think pink).  There's also spacing between the posts and the purlin edge for electrical.  And of course the plumbing always either comes up from the floor or down from the ceiling.2.  The right angle purlin to purlin bracket enables one to frame up windows and doors anywhere or place applicable.  It also allows the use of standard doors and windows available at the local hardware store versus getting special doors and windows for steel buildings.3.  Probably the most intimidating part of do it yourself building construction is the design and installation of the trusses and rafters.  Using the right and left corner brackets and a piece of pipe one can pick any pitch to twelve twelve.  Figure out how many trusses you'll need.  Slide a right and a left in pairs on a horizontal piece of pipe that's going to be the guide for each truss.Then the guide pipe is secured in place using scrap pieces of purlin and the closest corner bracket.  In no time the ridge is in place using screws.  Then the rafter purlins are run from the ridge to the top plate.  When the rafters are in place except for those used for the temporary bracing the bracing is removed and the rest of the rafters are screwed down.4.  Conventional metal building construction dictates the ceiling insulation has to either be laid down before the sheeting is attached to the purlins or it has to be a foam that adheres to the metal framing and siding material.Using the right angle purlin to purlin brackets the purlins are placed between the rafters instead of being layered on top like conventional construction does.  Again this enables the use of off the shelf batted insulation (think pink) for the ceiling.5. Metal buildings come generally either bolt up where you buy a kit and every bolt and strap has a specific purpose and place.  For the do it yourselfer it's like putting a puzzle together and you're stuck with it exactly as it's designed.  Or they're weld up where a professional does the installation and again, changes are either very expensive or not an option.This system is basically we provide the connectors and ideas and the customer buys the materials locally.  They build their building their way.And no welding required.But if you look at the the purlin to purlin bracket you could see a weldor jumping on them for installing the purlins between the rafters or cutting in windows and doors.  If the do it yourselfer wanted to weld the joints along with the screws that is also a viable option.Screen fences are a snap with this system.  Instead of having a weldor on the job to weld purlins or angle iron to posts for the sheets siding to be attached.  The same crew sets the posts and then follows with screws, screw gun,  and a portaband.I can see where the system would be the cat's meow for building storage units.  I don't know if you've ever been in one but in most of the metal ones if you can get inside one you now have access to the others via a cordless drill and a little time.  This system would allow a double wall, security and possible insulated walls.As you can tell I'm a little excited about it. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:Normally cutting in purlin to purlin one end must be custom cut to fit in for welding.  The purlin to purlin bracket works at either end of the purlin to rafter connection. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:The way the brackets are designed perfect cuts aren't necessary on the purlins between brackets. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:I'll be finishing the first building in the next week or so.  It's a twenty four by forty with a sixteen foot lean to or shed on each side for a forty by fifty six foot print.  I'm still working on the pieces and the fit and finish.Hopefully this year we'll get the patent and have it going.  Right now we're looking at it being strictly a local, Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana operation with some internet offerings.We went the hard way with the patent going with a great patent attorney and supplementing our own patent searches with one from a Washington search firm.  No one found anything close which gives us a reason to feel confident that we'll get a patent.I've been working on this for over a year in my spare time.  What made me think this way was I've built my buildings using pipe and purlins but I'd holesaw the purlins to fit down over the pipe.  I like the idea of the purlins laying flat for finishing out inside and outside.  I also don't like the idea of stacked or layered construction.  I don't like it in iron fences, pickets welded to the faces of the horizontals and I don't like it in metal buildings either.One thing led to another and the next thing I knew I was trying to figure out how to make those principles, purlins flat with pipe uprights, and easy finish out something anyone could do.  The metal tab with the ear was a natural.  It also allowed me to put two pieces side by side going opposite directions so the purlins would be on the same plane, necessary for good wall framing and truss building.I appreciate you looking at the idea and if you have some thoughts you'd like to share I'd appreciate it. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:I appreciate you looking at the idea and if you have some thoughts you'd like to share I'd appreciate it.