Is it possible to sharpen a masonry bit?

admin

I normally toss them out, but I have a 16mm one that is blunt and need to drill two 16mm holes in brick this weekend and it seems a shame to have to buy a new 16mm masonry bit for two holes.ScottYeah, I carry.House keys, wallet, some change, usually a newspaper, maybe a pen.
Reply:Most bricks are usually soft compared to concrete. As long as the carbide is still on the bits, I'd bet you can get 2 holes done as they are if needed..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Carbide tipped masonry bit?Usually, sure.  Just have to be careful on the grinding/sharpening action not to change the geometry or dimensions of the carbide.  Too much, anyway.  Oh, and two words to make things easier if you didn't already know it.Hammer drill.    Or percussion drill.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:No idea whether it's carbide tipped or not. But I'll have a go at sharpening it. I've never really looked at the tip of a masonry bit.Yeah, I carry.House keys, wallet, some change, usually a newspaper, maybe a pen.
Reply:http://www.drilldoctor.com/These will Sharpen masonry bits.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:If you normally toss them then there's nothing to lose by giving sharpening a go. But some day when you have time browse the masonary bit section. Rotary impact vs rotary only have a different cut. I'd guess most larger bits come cut for rotary impact which means they'll have sort of a pointed end only not quite a centered point. Most of the rotary impact do come with special shanks too altho that's not an absolute. Hard to describe but they are sloped towards the direction of rotation for a degree of cutting action but pointed for the impact action. In short if you accidentally bought a bit for rotary impact and try to use it straight rotary you won't have much luck.
Reply:Hey, I know you're not gonna but just in case, for those ancient soft bricks you've got in your place there, do not use an impact of any kind or amount.  If you don't split a brick you'll risk crumbling the mortar.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1http://www.drilldoctor.com/These will Sharpen masonry bits.
Reply:I've never had the need for a drill doctor. I sharpen bits on a grinding wheel and they seem to come out fine. Had a bunch of blunt ones and sharpened them all earlier this year. I was surprised how easy it was.Hey, I know you're not gonna but just in case, for those ancient soft bricks you've got in your place there, do not use an impact of any kind or amount.  If you don't split a brick you'll risk crumbling the mortar.
Reply:Originally Posted by scott brunsdonNo idea whether it's carbide tipped or not. But I'll have a go at sharpening it. I've never really looked at the tip of a masonry bit.
Reply:I took 30+ bits down to my local saw sharpener shop and they sharpened all of them for under $100Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:You can get a drill doctor for under $100, and get results that could be better than the factory grind.  I've sharpened way more than 30 bits already, and haven't switched wheels out yet.  It still grinds like new.The DD has a diamond wheel that is supposed to work just fine on carbide.I have found though, that there is a large variation in the quality of carbide in these bits.I burned out a number of cheap carbide tipped bits (no carbide left when I got done), and tried out an "SDS" impact bit in my drill (which had a hammer mode, but wasn't a true hammer drill, let alone a rotary hammer), and found it lasted MUCH longer.Now that I own an SDS rotary hammer, I've noticed that I wear out the flutes on these bits before wearing down the carbide, and this drill really beats on the carbide.  Enough so, that it would probably disintegrate the cheap bits I used before (if they fit), in a second or two.
Reply:Yeah, just like many things there are good and not so good ones.  Carbide masonry bits, plain drill bits, welders, filler wire or electrodes, cars, dogs, whiskey, wine, women, song, etc.  The 'cheap' carbide masonry bits I used for one task -did- have carbide tips.  But those carbide tips must have been the softest and sorriest chucks of carbide around because I don't think I was able to drill more than one or two small diameter relatively short depth holes in a plain concrete block (hollow) before the 'carbide' was dull and deformed.  It was pathetic and time consuming and actually sweat producing to try and drill with those bits.I picked up some Bosch carbide masonry bits (old school Bosch, not the new owned-by-Skil Bosch).  Much better.  Compared to trying to drill even two holes with those dull, deformed, sorry-excuse-for-carbide masonry bits I had, it would be worth it (and was) to go to the store and get a new 'decent' carbide bit.  Even for just two holes.   YMMV.Oh, Scott, don't try and sharpen carbide bits on a plain grinding wheel.  That usually makes the carbide chunk act like a wheel dresser on your grinding wheel.  Which is usually -not- what you want to do.    Carbide usually needs something like a diamond to grind it.rlitman, yeah -usually- the SDS bits are more 'heavy-duty' than the 'plain' bits.  Especially no-name and/or 'cheap' plain carbide masonry bits.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:You can sharpen a carbide tipped masonary bit on a regular grinding wheel. It's just really tough on the wheel. If all I had was a regular grinding wheel I would go ahead and sharpen a couple of bits on it being careful to use the entire face of the wheel to keep from making a groove in the wheel. A green wheel is the ticket though and I keep one on one grinder all the time.
Reply:The SDS bits aren't meant to fit in to a normal jacobs chuck, though I've still used them like that.  Yeah, the Bosch is what I use.  Mainly because they're way cheaper than Hitachi over here, and slightly less expensive than Hilti.Funny thing is, I don't really sharpen my carbide bits any more.  I guess with an underpowered rotary only drill, it could help, but with a rotary hammer, having it sharper, doesn't drill the hole any faster.
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseYeah, just like many things there are good and not so good ones.  Carbide masonry bits, plain drill bits, welders, filler wire or electrodes, cars, dogs, whiskey, wine, women, song, etc.  The 'cheap' carbide masonry bits I used for one task -did- have carbide tips.  But those carbide tips must have been the softest and sorriest chucks of carbide around because I don't think I was able to drill more than one or two small diameter relatively short depth holes in a plain concrete block (hollow) before the 'carbide' was dull and deformed.  It was pathetic and time consuming and actually sweat producing to try and drill with those bits.
Reply:I sharpen mine with a 4 1/2" grinder with the 1/16" cutting disc. Use just the edge of the disc and drag it across the carbide at the same angle as existing until you can feel a decent sharp edge.