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The 1st is an adjustable hitch for my buddies 1-ton truck has 14" of adjust. The 2nd and 3rd is a dock line holder I designed and built for my Dad He is on a windy part of water and his boat is a 29' baja outlaw and the bow catches wind terriable and turns the boat fast so he had trouble docking by himself so I built this. When he leaves the dock he loops the line on the hook so when he returns all he does is get close to the dock and grabs the line right from the captains chair dosent need another person to help him. Works great. The 4th is a simple parking lot bullard (keeps people from hitting things in parking garages and etc sure you have seen them.) I built 5 for a customer. The 5th is an decorative anchor I made from 304 SS hand cut with a plasma.The wife drew it up on card board I cut it out and traced it on the steel. Also hand ground. I left the swirl marks on purpose thought they made it pop better. Its about 3ft tall. Thats just a few things I ve done alot of the time I forget to take pics of the projects. Enjoy,Scott Attached Images
Reply:I like that hitch. I built a trailer tongue for a hay-hauler that is similar, on the other side of the connection. Very nice job. I have priced those and they aint cheap, and they are really handy. BTW, good to have you as a new member.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Nice work. I like the anchor. I have always been interested in how people weld a place onto the bottom of a post. Is there a jig that can be fabricated to eliminate warping and quick placement? I did 10 sign post for a valet service, the plate was 3/8x12sq. each one bowed. I put feet on them to eliminate wobble. I did 8 bollards a few weeks ago. Mine were around fire hydrants. FYI, standard for placement of bollards around fire hydrant is --post not inside a 3 foot radius of the center of the hydrant and 2 feet deep. Also, no bollard should be in front of the caps. I dug the holes 15 in diam. One was place through 8 inch of concrete. Not wanting to rent any tools for one hole- I used a diamond blade on my 4.5 in grinder and a 1 in hammer drill/chisel. Like motising a door I made lost of score marks and chiseled them away. Did this about 3 times before breaking through. Also kept water in the hole to eliminate dust.
Reply:Don't want to hijack the thread but have a question on the bollards. I want to make something like that with 5/16 chain draped from one to the other to go around the front of the house. I was planning on using 2.5" galvanized fence post as the tube and fill with cement when done. They will be burried 2 - 3 feet into the ground prior to pouring the cement. Is this tube ok to use for these or should I use a heavier guage tubing and then fill with cement?Neil
Reply:I was planning on using 2.5" galvanized fence post as the tube and fill with cement when done. They will be burried 2 - 3 feet into the ground prior to pouring the cement. Is this tube ok to use for these or should I use a heavier guage tubing and then fill with cement?
Reply:Hey SNT, that is a darn nice hitch. He can probably use it as a step to get up on his truck too.
Reply:looks pretty good . like what you did. only one thing i would of done differently. if i may say :the tongue i would of made one piece as for the slap on the hitch.i think it will weaken over time. secondly on the tongue you have in place i would put gussets on the top and bottom not the way you put it on the bottom , but turn it so it is in line with the ball and paralell with the hitch going up and downjust my two cents I I I\ I \ O I__\_________ you can weld both sides of the triangle 1/2" side of plate is facing the ball
Reply:Hey Scott, Nice work, I too have made a adjustable hitch for a truck I made a trailer to go behind (and never got paid for either) They are a good idea.Simonhttp://members.optusnet.com.au/~abba/index.html
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyThat's kinda of a hard call. There isn't much that you could put up that won't get bent or knocked over at some point if it's in a parking lot. I've seen six inch pipe full of concrete layed right over. Some folks are just plain idiots.Just as an opinion I would use something that has a little more strength, like 2 or 3 inch pipe and fill it with concrete. At least that might leave a little scar on whoever hits it.
Reply:Fallon I'd say go heavier, too. Because even though your pipe is galvanized it won't be difficult for acidic concrete to cause failure. Hence depth won't matter, because it will corrode at the base starting from the outside. I found 2 feet deep and 15 inch dia. at top wider at bottom of hole quite substantial for 36 inch tall bollards. I used 160 lbs. kwikrete per hole, poured it dry and packed hard. I also poured it into the bollard dry then added water.
Reply:TapWelder.....................What I do is tack weld the bases to a metal table dont fool around with dinky tacks they will break.. run a tiny bead. I welded them while there tacked to the table at didnt cut them loose till compltely cool. If no table is available find a plate heavyer than the 3/8.... tack it to that the same way. You cant really eliminate all the distortion (warp) but if you can clamp or tack it to something bigger than its self the heat has to try and distort both therefore eliminating alot of it.Hope it helps
Reply:hrdhatdvr...always like everyones 2 cents things would never get improved if we didnt speak up and suggest . The gusset is 3/4" x 3" flat bar multi-pass welded with 7018 in the flat if he breaks that I m gonna take his truck away lol.
Reply:I like the dockline holder. Until very recently I had a boat on Lake Erie. The docking arrangement a dock finger on one side and just a piling on the other. The holder you made would be a popular addition at the front end; a swing-away version would be awesome at the back end where the single piling is. As for the anchor, I've left a fair number of them at the bottom of a fair number of lakes over the years.Bob RosenbaumFormer PublisherPenton's WELDING Magazine |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:39:41