Roller stands

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Here are some stands I made. Made them a few weeks ago and just got them painted today. The height can be adjusted from 31" to 50" which is good for the table saw, work bench or what ever else I need them for. I can roll them around using the wheels when they are tipped on the wheels. Since nothing is ever level the two legs can be adjusted for uneven ground.Before paintthe rollersAll done
Reply:More pics
Reply:Very good workmanship!!! Those look really good and they should be really useful.                     MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Good looking stands. Can't have too many the way I see it. I only have two sort of similar to yours. Not quite as nice a job tho. I have two stands with three heads. It's nice to have both kinds of heads, static and roller, I think.I'll get around to making another one or two someday. Where did those rollers come from? They look like they were made to bolt onto something else at one time.
Reply:Thanks for the complement. I forgot to add these pictures. I can attach these rollers to the top of the roller stand after the roller is removed. I don't need a big set up so these are for small tubing projects. I will normally use these little rollers on the workbench but I wanted to the ability to use them on the stands if I need them.  I used some 1" c-channel, 2" x 1" steel wheels and some 1/8" plate. These came in real handy when I welded my tracking arm for my truck.
Reply:Sandy, Thanks. I picked up the rollers from an industrial surplus supply company. They have a hex shaft and are like 12 1/2" long. Not real sure where or what they were suposed to be put on. They look new. Sould be putting them to use here soon.
Reply:those look real nice, as does your shop ( from what I can see). Looks like you have some nice gear to work with, I see the Lincoln Tig, what brands are the plasma and Mig on the other cart?
Reply:Thanks Elder. The mig is a Lincoln 135 plus and the plasma is a Hypertherm powermax 380. My next toy hopefully will be the Lincoln 255, but I have a wedding coming up and the funds for the 255 have been turned into a honeymoon. Things are getting (((tight))) in the shop. All new additions will have to be on wheels or a cart made for them so I can wheel them around and actually move in my 22' by 25' garage. Oh and the future wife wants to park inside. I have a dream.....its a bigger shop!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Great work on the roller stands, Brick.I have some of the same equipment as you. I love my little Lincoln welders (SP125Plus and 135Plus) and my Hypertherm 380. I sometimes wish I had the Hypertherm 625 but that's not very often...the 380 is a great machine.If you can't afford the Licoln 255, I can definitely recommend the PowerMig 215. I have 2 of them and I'm very impressed with their welding capabilities....and I think EVERYBODY wants a bigger shop!.  I outgrew my 3000sq. ft.  shop the day I moved in. - Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Those rollers are exactyl like the ones I have. I got mine at the scrap yard by disassembling one of those rolling oonveyers they use when unloading trucks at grocery stores. They roll really freely and are very strong.I bet filing out the holes to make them hex was a bunch of fun (I hate filing).Great job on them.I have one question; What are the little "ears" under the roller for?
Reply:Bob, .......... Just a suggestion. If you ever get any more rolls that have a hex shaft, instead of filing out the holes to match the shaft, just drill a round hole just big enough so the shaft fits in it and then roll the shaft, so that one of the flat edges are on the bottom of the hole, then take a short piece of flat bar and drill a hole at each end. Next, take the flat bar and place it under the shaft so that it's against the flat piece of shaft, center punch, drill and tap 2 holes in the plate that is holding the shaft. This way you have that piece of flat bar pushing against the shaft keeping it from rotating. If you ever have to remove the roll, all you have to do is remove one bolt and the flat bar will just swing out of the way. I have to make 2 roll tables that will have a total of 33 rolls and I KNOW I"M NOT going to be filing 66 holes to make those shafts fit. Hope this helps. ............. Bill
Reply:Originally Posted by BRICKmp5Since nothing is ever level the two legs can be adjusted for uneven ground.
Reply:I did not file out the holes on mine either. I ground them round and forced them into a snug hole in the stand. I need to make more, I sold those to a guy that just had to have them.
Reply:Awesome job. I weld as a business and just can not find time to build things like this. I look at it as the price of materials and my time I can just go buy some. The time in making a lot of things I can make 2-4 times as much working for someone. But those are great famine projects. Feast or famine...........Again very good job.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702I'm sure you had a good reason, so why did you go with four legs instead of three?
Reply:Just as FYI most machine shops should have the hex punches. If ya don't mind shelling out a few bucks.
Reply:I went with four legs since I used square tube on the base.
Reply:Nice design and workmanship.  I agree that these can be bought but there just isn't the satisfaction of making it exactly the way you want it and .... it only adds to your skills.You mentioned a good use for these is the table saw.  Had you thought of also making an attachment for the top using ball bearings to avoid binding the saw when the stands are not exactly straight behind the outfeed table? (see pic)If you have any measured drawings please post them ... I would like to make these for my shop. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks guys. Arc it thats a good idea on the roller bearings, that shouldn't be too hard to fab up. I really didn't go off any drawings for the stands, but here are the main dimensions and parts I used. the base is 27" tallthe bottom base is 1 1/2" x 3/16 wall sq tube  18" longtop of the base 1 1/4 x .120 wall round chromoly  9" long (the ID is 1.010) the four legs are 1" sq tube  12" long  cut at 45 on each endthe rod is acme threaded rod 1" -6  25" long from mscdirect.comI used 1" acme nuts for the jam nuts and for the base of the roller headthe wheels are 2 1/2" wheels and I made the wheel brackets from 1" 1/8 flat the roller head is made up of 1 1/2 angle and 3/16 flat stock, mainly scrap I had around the shopmost of the materials are scrap except for the rollers, acme rod and nuts. I would have made the entire base out of the 1" ID tube but i only had 18" left from making a tracking arm for my truck. The threaded rod fits the round tube real good and is perfect for taking the wobble out of the stand. Arc your right I could have bought a set of these but that wouldn't have been any fun. I guess if I was doing other projects, and fabricated for a living (not just a hobby) that would make more sense but I like to make most of my tools. From the talent I've seen on this forum I'm not the only one that looks at something and says "I can build that".
Reply:Don't ever stop doing your own fabrication.  Anyone can buy a tool.  When you make your own you can customize it and fix it if it breaks.  As Zap always says practice, practice, practice.  Making these projects is just more practice and can't help but improve your skills.  Not to mention, it unlocks your creativity.  I have read several threads where guys are applying for patents and new ideas.  They didn't create these items by just buying what was already available.
Reply:Yes, very nice workmanship! Hi all, I'm new here to posting, even though I've been lurking in the shadows for quite some time. I built some stands for my shop as well. I got lucky at an auction about 20 years ago and found 3 nice, round, cast iron cafe table bases ( about 2' dia.). I also scrounged some conveyor rollers with the hex shafts from the junk pile at work. I simply drilled clearence holes to mount them. The bearings in the rollers have less friction and I've never had a problem with the shafts rotating. When I figure out how to post pictures on this forum, I'll show them to ya.                                                                            Dave Lee