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Making rustic custom furniture and the client likes the way that the hot rolled steel looks right out of the box, but doesnt like the visable welds....We have beveled the pieced and filled with welds, but after we grind the outer weld off, the steel is obviously shiny. We need to figure out how to get those spots to look like the mill scale. Client knows that the piece with age as mill scale deteriorates - but just rusting the exposed steel makes it very obvious...We MUST mimic the mill scale!!! Thoughts? Has anyone ever encountered this? Whoever can get this right will be sent a big fat roll of their choice of wire sent by me!Thanks!
Reply:I don't think you can just touch up spots and get a good matchsand blast the whole thing and use rustoleum's black hammered finish
Reply:I would try heating it up and dipping or coating with used oil. This will be and an extermely smokey process and the oil will flash off from time to time. Inever tried to simulate mill scale but that's what I'd try. Any other ideas?Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:You could heat and quench in used motor oil.It leaves the surface black and may be a close enough match to mill scale.Interested to hear some other answers.
Reply:Yeh, like tresi says, heat the welded areas to near blistering. Tricky.
Reply:My guess would be heating it. Usually stuff thats heated and bent with a torch forms a scale. Exactly how hot you will need to get the steel to replicate mill scale will probably take a bit of trial and error testing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You have two problems replicating the scale, the first being that the original scale is a hard somewhat inflexible (compared to the metal) layer attached to the outside of the metal, so getting the new "scale" to join the old as a continuous layer (and look right) would be difficult unless you used something like powdered scale bonded with lacquer, which could be spread like putty. It might still be difficult to get the proper texture/slightly-glossy surface look with that.The second difficulty is that the scale, Fe3O4, is not easily produced by any chemical method. Heating, as already suggested, might give something that will get by. You might modify the procedure by heating with one torch, and using a very oxidizing flame from a cutting torch on the still-red surface to produce a real scale, but it will take some trial to perfect the method, won't be quick, and will be a pain to do, I'd bet.You're welcome to try either of these ideas, but don't get your hopes up.
Reply:Bondo, JB Weld, drywall knockdown spatter, stucco, cement, thinset, grout, Henry's Wet Patch. Get a putty knife and an easel and start experimenting. It's just for appearances right? Caulking is allowed, D1.1 - 5.28 City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:As stated heat. Ironically heat also removes mill scale. Read some Blacksmithing books to find the correct temp for formation of scale. Color might be an issue next.Faux painting would work too.
Reply:I don't think any kind of faux finish is going to work. Might look good off the bat, but will stick out like a sore thumb when the rest of the finish ages. Heat to the point that it forms a natural scale may be the best bet.I'd sandblast the whole thing and then paint the whole thing with something like rustoleum hammered finish. Or sandblast and leave bare so it all rusts the same, maybe clear coat it AFTER the rust begins for a permanent natural look.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Hi ! You could try some cold gun bluing, It would give a similar appearance to the blue black color of cold rolled an no build up like paint. Good Luck! J.L.
Reply:I have matched cast iron look and texture by spray painting the weld area and while wet, throwing some small sand particles on the area and then paint again. Takes a little practice to get it right.A pneumatic needle gun may also work, by pinging the heck out of the weld area while the weld is still real hot.6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Faux the entire thing. I've done rust, pewter, patina coppered, and bronze with combinations of oil based paints. Though there are kits. Very controllable.also, any way to use screwn instead of welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI don't think any kind of faux finish is going to work. Might look good off the bat, but will stick out like a sore thumb when the rest of the finish ages. Heat to the point that it forms a natural scale may be the best bet.I'd sandblast the whole thing and then paint the whole thing with something like rustoleum hammered finish. Or sandblast and leave bare so it all rusts the same, maybe clear coat it AFTER the rust begins for a permanent natural look.
Reply:any progress?HH187Hobart 500i plasma cutterClark 4.5" GrinderDewalt 14" chop saw30 gallom 1.6 hp compressor10 gallon pressure pot sand blasterlots of hand tools
Reply:No reply from the OP.Someone must have given him the answer/solution to his question/problem.Maybe the roll of wire away.
Reply:Originally Posted by larryono reply from the op.Someone must have given him the answer/solution to his question/problem.Maybe the roll of wire Away.
Reply:I didnt think we would see much wire from a dude with 1 post.
Reply:He would have to remove all mill scale, then apply the correct heat to the metal, until it turns red hot, and naturally the mill scale will come in. Eventually it will fall off.No need to thank me. I am the best.
Reply:Use Amerlock Sealer to bond the mill scale to the surface, then it won't flake off.
Reply:who got the damn wire....? did u all just get played the sucker.?i was gonna say airbrush the welds , blending outward into the rest......i could do it easily.did he mean mill scale rust.............or is there a different mill scale..?who cares. we got ripped. thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:get it hot enough that scale forms and then you have to find a way to press it in to the steel while still hot. i usually do this by light hammering, youre not trying to leave hammer marks, but drive the scale into the steel. if you can sandblast it before you heat it, it will give it a rougher texture. sometimes you have to let it soak in a forge for a while to really let the scale build up.i have used a needle gun to make welded and ground areas blend better with hot rolled steel, but its not as good as heating and driving scale into the steel
Reply:Where is my wire?
Reply:Ol Croft seems to have disappeared but I did get a little info. I worked at a Photo Studio that had a custom Pool Table made from Steel- and had a "Mill Scale" Finish to it.Unfortunately they have since Painted or Powder coated it white so I have no Photos of the Pool Table.Just this info from one of the builders- the table was built some time around 94-95 so not too detailed in the process."Pool table construction:The metal used in construction was hot rolled. It was covered in motor oil several times and allowed to "dry". Then I used some selenium on it to blue it. (Yes, selenium is same stuff used to tone prints. Sometimes called gun blue. Extremely toxic, so be careful.) I might have done that the other way around, doesn't really matter. One table was covered in oil and set on fire, so yes, oil and a cooler flame from a blow torch could workHope this helps"dat's all I gots.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:sandblast, heat to sub-critical in an oxidizing flame and spray with thinned out motor oil...can use a cheap garden sparayer and thin with diesel...there will be lots of smoke and fire...but it ought to be alot of fun..i'd use a weed burner....We have tried several, unfortunately sandblasting the whole thing is the closest we have come. The second closest thing is a bit of rustoleum followed by a bit of 40 grit followed by a bit of vinegar overnight FOLLOWED by a bit of ebony Briwax....we are trying to avoid paying a ton of money for sandblasting and powdercoating... How much should I be paying for these things by the way. Plus!!!! The closest answer will get a big reel of wire.... I am running a business, and these things take time though! We had to move our entire operation to a new city that would let us actually manufacture stuff!Sorry for the delay!
Reply:my question is.. "who the freak like the looks of mill scale?"... ugh..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:Not really Mill Scale but an aged lookEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by ibanezed4yrsmy question is.. "who the freak like the looks of mill scale?"... ugh..
Reply:nice table in those pics.. killer lookin car.. nice green... me rikeyif you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room.. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:35:50