Where you get the trailer axle?

admin

Wondering where the people that built there trailers got there axle's. Im looking into building a trailer.Drivesector Hobart Handler 140Hobart Handler 180Ready Welder 2Hobart Air Force 400Airco Stinger 225Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most."OZZY"
Reply:I've just accumulated them over the years, but here's one source:www.championtrailers.com
Reply:i got mine from tractor supply companyChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:northern tool has all sorts of trailer options to choose from.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:all of the abovei have used old mobile home,boat trailer,old straight axles, and made some from pipe welded  together  you can get the hub kits from the said retaileralong with spring perches springs and all the parts you need except the pipe from northernlook at local salvage yards but be  ready for them to come out of the woods after you get your first one
Reply:I make my own using  rear axles from front wheel drive 1980-1990 Dodge or GM midsized cars. These axles have a inverted U shaped axle. I cut the axle 2 inches from the hub mounting plate and weld in the appropriate lenght of  1 1/2" pipe . This gives the axle a 2 inch drop.     I prefer the Dodge axles because the bearings are greasable while the GM ones are sealed units.
Reply:There is a surplus trailer supply in montpelier indiana, axles tires, etc  pretty cheap about 10$ for a two leaf spring axle
Reply:I just finished a 5' x 10' utility trailer made from 3" box tubing. I went to my local auto salvage yard and found that the rear axles out of the Chrysler/Dodge minivan style vehicles are great for making trailer axles from. They have a nice drop. I purchased the entire rolling axle assembly including aluminum wheels and "newer" tires for under $100. I ordered a spring kit from an online trailer supply house and they bolted right to the axle pads without modification. The only issue I had was that the axle needed to be "spread" to fit the 60" trailer bed, which was easily accomplished with a chop saw and some Sch 120 pipe welded as a sleeve over about 12" of each side of the axle after cutting. I have had in excess of 3500 lbs on it so far and it has handled the load very well.
Reply:Thats a very nice trailer. What is the weight rating for those minivan axles?As far as a parts kit, go to utilitytrailerkit.com, it is part of southwest wheel. They have about 7 sites from parts to kits and everything in between. A 3500 kit will run you 339 plus shipping. Everyting except steel and wood decking. This price, even with shipping, is far less then you will pay retail locally. I have had minimal problems with these guys.Bill
Reply:I really really like that trailer.  You think you can get pics of the underside?
Reply:Watch using old trailer axles, some states don't like them and you can't get them registered. I built one in SC and took it to VA where I sold it, the guy I sold it to had issues getting it registered. Just something to thing about. LaterIf you are not going to do it right...Why bother?My retreat http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...&albumid=20987
Reply:Bought spindles and 2" schedule 80 pipe. Welded up my own axle. Added electric brakes after first use. Might as well buy or make one with brakes from the get go as you will most likely overload it.
Reply:That is a nice trailer metalworx. Thanks everyone I will look around at the sources you supplied.Drivesector Hobart Handler 140Hobart Handler 180Ready Welder 2Hobart Air Force 400Airco Stinger 225Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most."OZZY"
Reply:When I cut this axle in half to splice in the spreader section, I noticed the wall thickness was very thick. 1/4" or more. I knew then that the axle would not be weak and that the Sch120 pipe was probably overkill, but better safe than sorry. I will try to take some shots of the underside this weekend. One last thing, I picked up a tip from somebody on this board about using Rustoleum to paint with. I decided to try it out on this one. Bought 2 quarts at Lowes, thinned it 20% with acetone and it sprayed very nice. It layed down very smooth, didn't run and came out very hard when dry. A quick waxing and I was stoked! A great inexpensive quality paint job. Thanks to my fellow rod burners for that tip..It worked great!
Reply:I posted the rustoleum remark awhile back. It does very nicely for the money. I think I pay about 25 bucks a gallon here in Washington.I will be painting base/clear in the future because I just scored a considerable amount of paint from where I work. They mix fresh paint every time and had some gallons laying around. All I have to do is buy the clear.Its an extra step, but will pay for itself when I sell the trailer.Those of you who have made your axles, do you have a jig for this? I am looking into lowering my cost to build trailers. If so, post a pic or IM me.Have fun.Bill
Reply:I like to go to my local scrap yard and go scrounging. For light duty trailers the rear axle out of a front wheel drive mini van is perfect. For the heavier stuff I usually try to find mobil home axles which are pretty stout. Use your imigination and scrounging skills and you will be fine. Also www.northerntool.com sells them ready made.
Reply:Hello, I've got a rear axle of an spanish car with his own springs, but I haven´t disassembled it of the car.The questions I have are the next ones: May i mount the springs in the new trailer as they are? (Without tension, as rest position, no load)How can I calculate the maximum displacement of the axle? (loaded or in bumps)Thanks a lot friends, and forgive my bad english!
Reply:How can I calculate the maximum displacement of the axle? (loaded or in bumps)
Reply:Metalworx what guage is the tubing you used for your trailer?  my welder melts  11 guage like butter...   i wonder if my MM 135 would be capable of making a trailer similar to that to haul my motorcycle?Millermatic 135.  i learn to weld by practicing on this...
Reply:The tubing on my trailer is 11 ga. I used my Lincoln 135 and ran two passes on each of the 4 connection points, top and bottom, using 0.035 wire. I have loaded it down with ~3000 lbs with not even a stress crack showing in the paint. The key to the strength of this trailer is how the tongue is configured. The tongue is framed using 3" C-channel running underneath in the standard "V" formation. Most all of the weight in front of the axle is transferred to the V-frame, keeping it away from stressing the joints in the corners. Hope this helps!
Reply:How can I calculate the maximum displacement of the axle? (loaded or in bumps)
Reply:I say to zapster with the had respect: I've said "spanish car" because I'm from spain, and don't want to mention a brand of a car that probably you don't know. By the other hand, I thought I've in my profile my location area, but it wasn't, now it's fixed.For Sandy with the due respect:Thanks for your answer, but I want to know the maximum route of the springs  (crossbow type), to know the place to weld the fenders. Anyway, your explanation is the best I have at this moment.
Reply:I say to zapster with the had respect:
Reply:transfuga,To figure out where to put the mounting points for the end of your leaf spring, just make that distance the same as it was in the original car/vehicle.  That should be close enough to make it work OK, without having to measure and calculate the spring rate and any changes in the spring rate caused by preloading the spring if you move the end points closer together than they were on the original vehicle.Besides, if you make the mounting points for the spring ends too close together, how are you going to (safely) bend your leaf spring to install it?
Reply:Originally Posted by drivesectorWondering where the people that built there trailers got there axle's. Im looking into building a trailer.,but I want to know the maximum route of the springs (crossbow type), to know the place to weld the fenders.
Reply:zapster: sorry but I don't understand that: Originally Posted by zapsteroh geeeee another one..suit yourself.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by transfugazapster: sorry but I don't understand that:But I hope you accept my excuses if I told you anything wrong.Thanks to Moonrise and Sandy for your useful explanations.
Reply:for my trailer I maded my own axle from 2"x2"x5/16 rhs and welded the stub axles in it after 17 yrs and many big loads still holding up Creative metal Creative metal Facebook
Reply:wow you sure did a great job and ver nice paint too  keep up the good work i have to get my tig going and do some alluminum work ....pete
Reply:For metalworx:Can you post a photo with anything loaded on the trailer? (Just to view how do you fix the load on it)And what about a photo of the down side of the trailer?Thanks.
Reply:Oh Lord zapster can you's forgive my... pplllffftt... fart.  Ya okay.I used tremclad rustoleum as well on a trailer I recently built. It turned out great. It left a nice smooth finish. Of course a good coat of the right primer helps too.
Reply:I would suggest not making your own axles. Seen some homemade axles ruin tires in short order because of alignment problems.
Reply:I purchased the rear axle out of a front drive GM car, then cut the axle in the center and lengthened it out, ( I beleive about 16 -19"). I think I paid $40.00 for the axle with the tires and wheels, tires were pretty much history. Bought the spring kits from Orschelin's. I had a lot of guys tell me if if I could find spindles off of any of the old Rambler cars they worked great, but proved to be hard to find. Attached Images
Reply:I've put my trailer (seen earlier in "just out of the shop" condition) to good use doing volunteer work at several agencies here in town. These shots were from a simple railing job we did at a local 4H arena that the kids use to show horses in. Since the earlier photos I have outfitted the trailer with standard removeable sides made of pressure treated and painted to match the trailer. I cut the legs off of my welding table and mounted it up front. I threw a spare tool box up there to handle all the wrenches, etc. The HF band saw is mounted on the rear and has worked great. The side opposite the bandsaw has a metal roller from a roller stand mounted on the side board so I can lay apiece of metal across the back of the trailer and it is the same height as the saw bed. It just feeds across with ease. I have also mounted a small compressor under the welding table to supply air for the grinders and drills. Overall, it's my mobile shop. It stays in the garage and for kicks, I put a small folding campstool on board and when I am working in the garage, I just sit on the stool, on the trailer and weld on the table. (or you can stand at any one of the three sides at ground level!). I still owe you guys an underneath photo. Attached Images
Reply:Here's a shot of the other side. Someone asked about how a load is attached or carried on this trailer. I buy the 3"  base plates from King Architectural Metals (that we use to anchor rails to flat surfaces) that have 4 holes in them. I ran bolts through the base plate to the underside of the trailer with big fender washers and lock nuts on the bottom and weld them to the frame of the item I want to stay on the trailer. If I ever need to disassemble the trailer surface to be used for another reason (which is unlikely) then just remove the bolts and lift the item off. One more thing I did, if you look at the top edge of the welding table, I ran 3/4" black iron pipe along the lip and then down one leg. I put quick disconnects for the air tools spaced out along the fron and one on the bottom of the leg. That way I can use the compressor to feed this manifold or use it as a straight compressor for other shop tasks. (Note the Mountain Dew case in the truck. To get my coharts to help out, I bring lots of Mountain Dew and Krispy Kreme Doughnuts along. The sugar puts them on overload and I get a good 8 hours out of them before they crash!) Attached Images
Reply:Try abctrailerparts.com.  A while back they were selling a complete kit - 4" drop, 90'+ wide, 3500 lb axle and hubs, springs, shackles, perches, coupler, safety chains, weld-on fenders and backs, and light kit for around $200.  Freight from north AL to east GA was about $125, but no sales tax.  Buying pieces at TSC at least be double that cost, including the freight.TeddCoHTP Microcut 400 & Invertig 160DC  Smith Dual Guard MD-510 OA Rig  Lincoln SP135+  Hobart Stickmate LX 235/160
Reply:Northerntool Has a Great selection of axles, slightly better than TSC. I Have purchased two axles from northern, But they didn't have the right sizes(nobody DID). I had to buy longer axles and then cut them down to size. That is why we are weldersBilly
Reply:Well, I have to show my trailer now  Harbor freight kit ($230 or so), then I added the uprights and expanded metal. Attached Images***************************************Lincoln AC225 stick welderLincoln HD100 WeldPak flux core wire feed welderThree of the cheapest grinders money can buy