Mig arc blinding through helmet

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I was doing some plug welding with my Lincoln 135 mig over the weekend, and a few times the arc got extremely bright, to the point that I had to stop because i couldn't see for a second or two. I using a Hobart auto darkening hood, could it be a problem with the hood, or is it possible something is going on at the weld point? Happened a few times, intermittently, but then all seemed fine again.
Reply:It about has to be the helmet, dead batteries maybe, or a dirty sensor.
Reply:Originally Posted by BlueweldersIt about has to be the helmet, dead batteries maybe, or a dirty sensor.
Reply:How many sensors does your hood have? Mine only has one and I get flashed sometimes when I'm in odd positions. If the sensor is blocked by your gun or part of the project you are working on the helmet won't darken.
Reply:my 2 cents, ad's suck, get a $40 huntsman and yer problems are gone.
Reply:A lot of times, guys think a solar-powered helmet doesn't also have batteries.  It does, and the helmet will let you get flashed when the batteries go dead.You could also have a dirty/blocked/failing sensor.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Clean the sensor(s) and check the battery, if it continues with the arc visible before it happens then it could be the unit.
Reply:It is rare, but I have seen a lens before with a tiny chip or hairline crack in it. Sometimes this is caused by moisture hitting the lense. Quality brands don't seem to have this problem.Scottwelders360.comNew guy.
Reply:You can use a lighter or oxy-fuel striker to confirm that your lens is changing properly without exposing your eyes to bright light.Turn the sensitivity and delay timer to max, and it should stay dark while you spark the lighter/striker.CWI, CWE, CST for Miller, Lincoln, Thermadyne, Hypertherm & ESABMillermatic 350PLincoln Invertec 205 AC/DCVictor combo torchESAB PCM 1125
Reply:Usually a bright fluorescent light will make one switch to dark .If the battery is bad they usually won't switch at all.If the darkness knob got broken, they will darken,but just to the lowest setting.
Reply:No adjustment on the hood, and don't see a place for a battery.
Reply:I had that problem when I first started using my auto hood with MIG.   I was able to increase the delay, which seemed to solve it.If you don't have any adjustments, you may have to go back to a regular hood.RichardSculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:My helmet will work just looking at a 100 watt lite bulb but sometimes when burning fluxcore wire which seems to throw off a lot of smoke and gets the lens dirty it will be eratic until cleaned. Mine is a $69.00 one from the Harbor.
Reply:sounds like it's time to get a good hood. An old hood that can't change shade and only has one sensor is ripe for replacement.  The shade adjustment is almost a necessity in my opinion because sometimes you get stuff that is just too bright for one shade.or too dim for another.I had a miller elite, and never had any issues it has 3 sensors.  That probably is the root of the problem. The batteries do die over the years on AD hoods, but then it wont ever go dark or won't stay dark. pretty obvious.Also for the record even when non darkened the glass still has full UV protection, so while it's uncomfortably bright it won't do any damage so long as you don't try to go welding all day at a number 3, it's more of an inconvenience than anything.Welding EngineerCertified Scrap Producer