sand blast cabinet

admin

Here's a sandblast cabinet I built, It's 36" wide 24" deep and 28" tall.  I wanted to make it to where I can put long stuff in too, so I made a door on both sides.  I still got to paint it and get gloves and some stuff to hook up my gun.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:looks good be very handy when your finished it Creative metal Creative metal Facebook
Reply:Excellent work!  I have plans to make one of those next summer.  Post up the pics once you paint and get everything hooked up.If you don't mind sharing, what do you think this will cost you all in?SteelBlasting gunDraft/vacuum set up for collectionGloves etc
Reply:wonder if you could use it for welding in an inert atmosphere... i.e. titanium or stainless..BTW, looks great, what a good idea.
Reply:Originally Posted by GDAIf you don't mind sharing, what do you think this will cost you all in?
Reply:man!!!you could sandblast diesels in there!! ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Looks great and nice work. The photos could be better...trying to save the batteries?  John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Sorry about the pic quality.  I took them with my phone.  The next ones I'll use my new camera.   I'll have to compress them a whole lot though.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Nice job LittleFuzz !          Looks great ..Washman
Reply:May I suggest something? Plexiglass will fog up on you pretty quickly from the blast media bouncing back at the window. If you can get a glass shop to cut you some thin glass the same size as your window, place it under the plexi. I have about a dozen sheets in my shop and I just change em out when I can't see anymore. Another item I found handy was to use halogen lights in the cabinet that were brighter than the flourescent it came with. It helps to see those tight spots in nooks and crannies rather than take the piece in and out of the cabinet to check for missed spots.The last thing I figured out by necessity. I kept getting shocked a LOT when blasting all the parts off my truck. Turns out the air rushing through the rubber air hose was creating a static build up and then I was grounded...zap.What I did was take a short 14gauge wire and sheetmetal screwed it to the cabinet and grounded it into the electrical outlet where my halogen lights were wired. Solved my shocking problem.Hey, I hope some of this helps you out. Sorry if I was long winded.JokerLincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Regarding protecting the window against abrasion:  Sandblast hood makers sell pads of several thicknesses of plastic film laminated together with a weak adhesive like the adhesive on Post-Its.  You blast away until the lens gets too foggy, then peel off the outer layer and continue with like-new vision.  I'd guess that blast cabinet makers sell similar stuff.Nice job, littlefuzz.  I hope to replicate your cabinet, eventually.awright
Reply:Thanks for the advise guys.  I was planning on some halogens anyway.  I wonder where you could get those tear-offs for the window?  That would be ideal.  I'll definetly have to get someone else to cut glass for me, I tried to cut some before and broke every piece.       I probably got 8hrs. in the cabinet so far.  It goes pretty quick if ya got the equiptment handy.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Eastwood has those plastic sheet protectors.http://www.eastwoodco.com/
Reply:One thing I have seen work to reduce the amount of sand that hits the window is to put a small piece of metal at an angle at the top of the cabinet to stop the swirling of the air while blasting. You will have to actually use it a couple of times an play around with the placement to find where it works best, but it really increased the life span of the windows on the one I used daily at my lst job. I also like the idea of the tearoff protectors, but if it gets used a lot they could get pricey.
Reply:littlefuzz what do you plan on using for the plastic/fabric gloves that are inserted in the front holes?  Can you buy something like that or do you have to fabricate some type of sleeve?
Reply:I rolled some rings and welded on the inside that I can clamp the gloves to whenever I buy some.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Here's some better pics.also I picked up a new gun at TSCDewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Originally Posted by littlefuzzI wonder where you could get those tear-offs for the window?
Reply:Originally Posted by imagineerI made a cheap plywood sandblast cabinet ....
Reply:Originally Posted by Arc_Itimagineer, that is an interesting idea.  I guess you would only have to use sheet metal on the inside of the cabinet, if you wanted.  That would certainly keep the costs down.
Reply:I got a 500w halogen for the cabinet I think that'll shed some light.  I'm kinda limited as to where I can mount it though, bulky.  I think I'm gonna put some casters on it also, I think I made it just a little short. I'm looking foward to some long hours standing there, might as well be comfortable.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Be sure to protect the halogen bulb against excessive heat and from pitting by blast media.  The bulb operates at very high temperature and is under high pressure and can explode if the quartz envelope is scratched.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by awrightBe sure to protect the halogen bulb against excessive heat and from pitting by blast media.  The bulb operates at very high temperature and is under high pressure and can explode if the quartz envelope is scratched.awright
Reply:what are you going to use for a window?  i've found in the past glass with the chicken wire thru the middle puts up with the media the best..plexiglass is way cheaper but dont last very long...etches real fast..and it collects dust thru static cling really bad... vision goes away fast compared to real glass..and the chicken wire glass puts up with alot of greif and wont break into a mass of splintered glass.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterwhat are you going to use for a window?  i've found in the past glass with the chicken wire thru the middle puts up with the media the best..plexiglass is way cheaper but dont last very long...etches real fast..and it collects dust thru static cling really bad... vision goes away fast compared to real glass..and the chicken wire glass puts up with alot of greif and wont break into a mass of splintered glass.. ...zap!Nice job looks very similar to my bought one from Eastwood.  I like the two doors feature - wish mine had that...TOOLandFAB.com See our Articles and Member Writeups and Tool Review Sections
Reply:Cut a hole in the top, cover with a cheap piece of glass for a picture frame or such.  Attach the glass with silicone seal.  Mount your halogen light about 1/2-1 inch above it.  It doesn't matter if the glass gets frosted.  The space allows airflow to remove heat from the light.  If you use Plexiglas instead, you will need a larger airspace.  Plexi under the glass, with a 1/4" space would protect the glass from parts inside the booth and would reduce the spacing needed above the cabinet.  Of course, you will need a fence around the opening to prevent the light from hitting you directly in the face when you look up.
Reply:Talk to your glass supplier before buying tempered glass for the cabinet window.  The tempering process is basically putting the surface of the glass under stress and any scratch can initiate disintegration into tiny pieces.  I don't know if impact by a piece of grit would have the same effect.If you want extra protection, laminated glass might be a better choice, albeit expensive.  You would have to work hard to break it and even if you did, it would stay intact.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by littlefuzzThanks for the advise guys.  I was planning on some halogens anyway.  I wonder where you could get those tear-offs for the window?  That would be ideal.  I'll definetly have to get someone else to cut glass for me, I tried to cut some before and broke every piece.       I probably got 8hrs. in the cabinet so far.  It goes pretty quick if ya got the equiptment handy.
Reply:OH! I almost forgot. I hooked up my shopvac to my blast cabinet as a dust collector. It REALLY cuts down on how quickly you lose visibility. If you can get the dust collected quickly, it tends to stay off the glass. Or a woodshop dust collector would work better. Also, do not use silica sand. I use a copper slag called SharpShot. I get it at my local brick/concrete/sand/rock supplier. Silicosis is not a good thing. Copper slag is osha approved to use without respirators. Nice.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Has anyone used crushed quartz?  A place here has it for about $10 for 80lb.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:finally painted the cabinet, I was running low on red paint and I thinned it out to much so I wound up with some runs.  I don't guess it matters much though since it's for me, if it was for someone else I'd fix it.  Oh I ran out of paint too so I didn't get it all, like the bottom of the angles (you can see in the pics)DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:looks like a winner! u should not have a problem bumping into it, it sure is brite.63' Lincoln SA200 2008 miller trailblazer 302fibre-metal pipelinermiller camo BWEand all the guns and ammo a growin boy needs
Reply:You might need to shade the light from the window to avoid glare in your face. Mess with it and you will find what works best.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:I was wondering what type of system you have for the medium pickup? Also, what sort of blast gun do you have? My HF cabinet uses a spihon tube to pick up the glass beads. It will hold two 25# sacks of medium in the hopper. I used to have a cheap HF gun with a ceramic inner and outer tip. That didn't last. I tried turning stainless steel inner and outer tips but those wore out in a month. I finally changed to a Snap-On blast gun. It was about $80 but it's been in there for close to ten years and is't still like new because it has Tungsten Carbide inner and outer tips. It hasn't worn down at all. I use a very large Cyclone brand dust collector on the side of mine. It sits on a 55 gallon barrel and has a 2 hp Baldor 3,450 rpm motor. It has a large bag on the side to hold the fines in. It keeps the field of vision clear when I'm blasting. I use a polycarbonate sheet inside of a tempered glass outer window. when it gets bad, I remove the glass and replace the polycarbonate. They last quirte a while. You've done a nice job on your cabinet for sure!   Miller Millermatic 252Miller Syncrowave 200Liincoln AC-DC 225Victor O-A Set
Reply:I got a clarke gun from TSC but i think I'm gonna change it.  it's siphon pickup.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Originally Posted by littlefuzzI got a clarke gun from TSC but i think I'm gonna change it.  it's siphon pickup.