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Gored elbow

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:22:32 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
This is a gored elbow, it is 24 inch diameter, a 7 piece 90 degree pattern with 1.5x diameter centerline radius. From 18 ga galv, lapped construction. Minimal weld...later it was stitched and sealed inside and out.
Reply:
Reply:Here's a tee. 12 on 24 at 30 degrees
Reply:The Mutts Nutts as usual.I hate welding Galv, what do you use for Breathing Apparatus?
Reply:Daym your good!DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:You guys make some awsome stuff there Tinbasher.I always like seeing it.pro-level dumpster diver                                     Hobart 125EZ
Reply:Nice work!  All those angles on a cylinderical (sp?) object would fry my brain....Miller Syncrowave 200MillerMatic 180 AutoSetHobart Airforce 500iVictor O/A (80cf)
Reply:Beautiful work!  The galvanized steel must be a pain to weld!I remember in one shop I was welding galvanized stairs to steel channel with metalcore.  The second it got too hot, KABLAM! the weld puddle would explode and all of the embers would go down one's neck.
Reply:Yes, very tight parameters for getting decent results on galv sheet, but once you get the machine tuned in just right, it goes along alright. No T-shirt welding that's for sure. I use a respirator with the purple cartridges over the shoulder, also we like to weld the Galv where we have a fume hood. For a small amount of it, I go with the grimace and hold your breath technique
Reply:How do you come up with the cut pattern?I am impressed, I would need to make a few to get the size correct!Me!
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherYes, very tight parameters for getting decent results on galv sheet, but once you get the machine tuned in just right, it goes along alright. No T-shirt welding that's for sure. I use a respirator with the purple cartridges over the shoulder, also we like to weld the Galv where we have a fume hood. For a small amount of it, I go with the grimace and hold your breath technique
Reply:Originally Posted by Me!How do you come up with the cut pattern?I am impressed, I would need to make a few to get the size correct!
Reply:You do a nice bashing job...   Me!
Reply:I am not putting your methods down at all, in anyway shape or form. From my point of view or habits, I would go out of my mind lapping them. It is easier for me to just tack and weld them, without doubt. You could not bring them over fast enough. For the lighter gauge I often use a strap that I tighten around the seam to keep it aligned and then I tack through the strap that has holes in it for that purpose. The large strap is welded to a hose clamp that we just use a six and one on the 5/16" hex head of the hose clamp.I love to see you doing it your way though. It gives me alternatives and ideas. What do you use to put the lap in? Maybe that is what I am missing. Thanks for posting it.This is how we set up 18 gauge material. And believe it or not the strap actually holds three piece gores, enough to tack.       Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Very nicely done.
Reply:Tinbasher and Mr. McCormick...both of you are in that elite group of 'metal artists'  It don't hang on a museum wall but it is without a doubt.. art.  Sadly most people never see or learn to appreciate the talent it takes to create this stuff...  It's awesome.Now for my dummy question... I understand the use of the elbows... but never heard the term "gored" ??  does it have something to do with the construction ??thanks for the pictures... john
Reply:Originally Posted by jniolonTinbasher and Mr. McCormick...both of you are in that elite group of 'metal artists'  It don't hang on a museum wall but it is without a doubt.. art.  Sadly most people never see or learn to appreciate the talent it takes to create this stuff...  It's awesome.Now for my dummy question... I understand the use of the elbows... but never heard the term "gored" ??  does it have something to do with the construction ??thanks for the pictures... john
Reply:deleted, double post.Last edited by mooseye; 02-11-2008 at 12:15 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloGores are each of the sections of the bend. Depending on the radius desired, and the smoothness of bend you are looking for you would use less or more gores.
Reply:Originally Posted by jniolonTinbasher and Mr. McCormick...both of you are in that elite group of 'metal artists'  It don't hang on a museum wall but it is without a doubt.. art.  Sadly most people never see or learn to appreciate the talent it takes to create this stuff...  It's awesome.Now for my dummy question... I understand the use of the elbows... but never heard the term "gored" ??  does it have something to do with the construction ??thanks for the pictures... john
Reply:http://www.Rockwelder.com/Flash/elbo...elbowcuts.htmlThese are consecutive pages from a sheet metal book. They show some things about cutting pieces or gores to make up an elbow. You can stop the slide show and look at any page by sliding the slider to the page you would like to read. They say you calculate the angle of your gores by, taking 90 degrees and dividing it by the number of pieces in your gore minus 1, times 2.So a three piece 90 degree elbow would be 90 ÷ (3-1) *2 = 22.5 I love these old books.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherLapped construction is easier and makes a better product in my mind...it is lapped for flow and so long as you check the angle as you build it it comes out to what it is supposed to.Lapped construction goes back to the fact they used to be riveted together and soldered back in the day. Each gore was lapped into the next a full half inch to accommodate the riveting. Also the throats were swedged by hand with a hammer on a piece of rail to allow for one to fit into the other...one must be stretched because they start out the same size. I have built 100's of elbows of all different sizes and believe me, for the light gages, lapping them is much faster than butting themAlso when the gores are cut by hand using a uni-shear or slitter, it is impossible to get a perfect curve which is needed to butt them, especially on light gage. We lap 14 Ga and lighter and butt 12 and heavier.
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