How do you tig weld?

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Hi, Im new to welding. So far I olny know how to gas weld. I wanted to learn how to tig weld. What is the process for tig welding? Thanks       MJL's Lawn Care N'More LLCShelby Twp., MIhttp://[email protected]
Reply:Here's a link on "how to".http://www.alu-info.dk/Html/alulib/modul/A00537.htm
Reply:If you're a decent O/A welder you've already got a lot of skills you can transfer to TIG, they're very similar processes.  You'll often hear that you should learn O/A before TIG so you're right on track.  Much of the equipment, technique, problems, etc. have been covered in topics on this board as well as the Hobart and Miller boards.  I'd suggest searching for TIG and reading up.  If you don't find what you need just post a specific question.  There are also some decent TIG books and coverage of the topic in most of the welding texts.If you have the opportunity and they offer a welding program try and take a TIG class at your local community college.  I did and it was great.  We had all the scrap metal, rod and argon that we could use and the cost was very low.  Lots of cheap practice, good advice and tips.Good luck and have fun!TinkerTinkerCentury 135GS, ThermalArc 250GTS
Reply:Miller has a pretty decent TIG Handbook that you can download here:http://millerwelds.com/education/TIGhandbook/
Reply:Thanks chopper@5000, Tinker, and PAToyotaMJL's Lawn Care N'More LLCShelby Twp., MIhttp://[email protected]
Reply:Ok I tried tig welding and all I ended up doing was shocking myself about 6 times before I gave up. I had my piece of metal I was trying to weld on. I turned the machine on. Picked up the torch, pressed the pedal to let the shielding gas out, held the torch to the metal touched my filler rod to the metal a got shocked. Any ideas on what I did wrong. It was a miller welding machine.MJL's Lawn Care N'More LLCShelby Twp., MIhttp://[email protected]
Reply:MJL, you didn't mention it but I'm assuming that you had the ground/workpiece clamp firmly attached to the metal.  You didn't mention if you were using scratch, lift or the high-frequency/high-voltage start technique.  Since you mentioned some shocks I'm guessing that you're using the high-frequency/high-voltage (HF) arc start feature.It would be helpful if you let us know what specific Miller TIG welder that you're using.Here's a really quick summary of the basic techniques in order of increasing difficulty.  In other words, use the HF start if you've got it, makes things much easier.  Make sure your gas flow is set and the current (maybe 70-90 amps, more for thicker stock) set on the machine.  Make sure you've got a nice sharp tungsten.  Make sure your metal is bright and clean (wire brush, wash with Simple Green or wipe with acetone).  Make sure your workpiece clamp is firmly attached to the metal.  Wear a pair of thin TIG style gloves to reduce burns (and shocks).  I'd suggest you start with small piece of sheet and just practice running beads before you try any joints.  Since you're an O/A welder it should look familiar once you get a puddle going.HF Start:  Position the TIG torch with the pointed tungsten about an 1/8" from the workpiece, torch angled slightly in the direction you're going to move.  It's OK to rest the cup on the metal to steady everything.  Press down on the pedal and the HF should initiate the arc.  Hold the torch steady until you develop the puddle, add a little more pedal if you don't start seeing the puddle.  You can then practice moving the puddle just like O/A.  After you get the hang of it you can start adding the filler rod (also clean) at the leading edge of the puddle as necessary to get the right weld contour.  Don't touch the filler rod to the tungsten or dip the tungsten in the puddle or Slowly back off on the pedal to stop without leaving a big crater.  Leave the torch over the bead until the gas stops.Lift Start:Position the TIG torch with the pointed tungsten about an 1/8" from the workpiece, torch angled slightly in the direction you're going to move.  It's OK to rest the cup on the metal to steady everything.  Rotate the torch until the tungsten touches the metal.  Press down on the pedal and rotate the torch to lift the tungsten about 1/8" off the metal.  The machine should start the arc as the tunsten is lifted.  Continue just like with the HF above.Scratch Start:I think this technique is kind of tricky for a beginner (or me) and you should use the HF or Lift Start if you've got it on your welder.  With scratch start you're going to press down on the pedal and then scratch the tungsten briefly on the metal before raising the tungsten up about 1/8" off the metal.  Kinda like lighting a match.  This technique can be frustrating since you can stick the tungsten to the metal and contaminate it, you may raise the tungsten enough to lose the arc, etc.Does that help?  Let us know if things got better or if you have additional questions.TinkerCentury 135GS, ThermalArc 250GTS
Reply:HELLO TO ALL,i have a miller econotig. it is the lowest of the line of tig welders, and i don't thinkmiller makes this machine anymore. i wasgetting shocked at different times from thismachine. i called my electrician friend. he toldme to run a ground wire from the table to theground inside the electirc box, that feeds thewelding machine. i did this, and have not hadanymore problems. perhaps this would solve your problem.good luck with your projects.wlbrown