Welding rod help

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Hello,I'm Ron and I want to use my recently purchased older Lincoln AC 225 S welder. I'm relatively new at this. I've been welding with a very old Forney for about one year and sometimes I do good, sometimes I don't.  I am totally ignorant when it comes to what type of welding rod to use.  When I purchased the Forney, it came with several coffee cans full of many different types of rods.  I live in rainy Oregon and my shop is usually damp during the winter months so I've been keeping my rods tucked in behind our wood stove in the house because I've heard that if they get damp it causes problems.  I would like to hear from someone who can recommend the easiest type of rod to use.  I've been welding trailer hitches, built a motorcycle trailer (its still holding together after one year of heavy use by teenagers!), built some pedestal stands for grinders, repaired a couple of wood stoves etc.I'm a back yard welder so too speak. Please help.  Thanks,  Ron
Reply:Easiest to use that I can think of is 6013- flat only, minimal penetration, originally designed for sheet metal.6011 for dirty work, deep penetration. Must whip or maneuver puddle,7018AC stacks nice dimes.Thats all I can think of for AC only.ArcAmpsAngle SpeedLincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:try to buy from the local welding supply and not from the open carton at the local farm and home supply. It is always a good idea to keep them outta the humidity and damp. some rods can be dried in an oven and used for non critical stuff. In your mix of rods you very well may have some that are DC. A great way to store rods is in 5 gallon bucket with a lid, put a cheapo ceramic light fixture on the inside of the lid and a 25 watt bulb for heat. Keeps them warm and dry. Stick with the better names-- esab-hobart-lincoln
Reply:Using those old rods you got in the cans is like russian roulette some may be good and some may be bad. I am guessing thats your problem. Go pick up some fresh rods and air tight rod holders and you should notice stability in the characteristics right away.
Reply:Originally Posted by MadMax31Easiest to use that I can think of is 6013- flat only, minimal penetration, originally designed for sheet metal.6011 for dirty work, deep penetration. Must whip or maneuver puddle,7018AC stacks nice dimes.Thats all I can think of for AC only.ArcAmpsAngle Speed
Reply:Originally Posted by MadMax31Easiest to use that I can think of is 6013- flat only, minimal penetration, originally designed for sheet metal.6011 for dirty work, deep penetration. Must whip or maneuver puddle,7018AC stacks nice dimes.Thats all I can think of for AC only.ArcAmpsAngle Speed
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultThe 1 in all stick electrodes means all position. 2 is flat only.  JG
Reply:The MG 80T's are nice rods. I used some a few years ago and they ran real nice. 7014 is another good rod that doesn't have as much storage issues as 7018 and will do almost the same stuff. I generally keep 7014 on hand for emergency repairs when I can't run out for new 7018, since it holds up better to moisture and lasts better. A couple of guys have mentioned 80T lately and I've thought about picking up another box in the near future as I need to get some more "emergency" rod for stock. I don't know the exact makeup of 80T, but from use I'd guess it's probably close to an 8014 from the way the slag pealed and the fact it doesn't have to be kept in an oven like 8018 would. I'll have to look close at the boxes when I get ome and see how they compare.As far as the comment on the "1" and "2"... Generally the 1st 2 numbers on a rod designate the strength. on 7018, the 70 designated 70,000 psi, The 3rd number designates positions it can be used in. Again in 7018, the "1" means it's an all position rod. The last number tells you about the coating. The "8" designates a "low hydrogen" rod, and and shows you it's different from say 7014, thats a 70K, all position rod, (like 7018) but with a different coating..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe MG 80T's are nice rods. I used some a few years ago and they ran real nice. 7014 is another good rod that doesn't have as much storage issues as 7018 and will do almost the same stuff. I generally keep 7014 on hand for emergency repairs when I can't run out for new 7018, since it holds up better to moisture and lasts better. A couple of guys have mentioned 80T lately and I've thought about picking up another box in the near future as I need to get some more "emergency" rod for stock. I don't know the exact makeup of 80T, but from use I'd guess it's probably close to an 8014 from the way the slag pealed and the fact it doesn't have to be kept in an oven like 8018 would. I'll have to look close at the boxes when I get ome and see how they compare.As far as the comment on the "1" and "2"... Generally the 1st 2 numbers on a rod designate the strength. on 7018, the 70 designated 70,000 psi, The 3rd number designates positions it can be used in. Again in 7018, the "1" means it's an all position rod. The last number tells you about the coating. The "8" designates a "low hydrogen" rod, and and shows you it's different from say 7014, thats a 70K, all position rod, (like 7018) but with a different coating.
Reply:Growing up on  farm where we did all of our own repairs we used 7014 for all of our general welding.  It is easy to use and makes a good looking weld.  I don't remember having any problems with anything we welded coming "unstuck".  For cast iron and some other things we used "Super Missile Weld".  Harder to weld with and cannot be machined.
Reply:6011 does  not need to be kept dry. nor does 7014. avoid 7018 because your location is damp.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbead6011 does  not need to be kept dry. nor does 7014. avoid 7018 because your location is damp.
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manAll rods should be kept "dry". Low hydrogen rods (7018) need to be kept in an oven for code work. However, all rods are better off being kept in a container such as this rod guard.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDThat statement is not quite true. 6010/6011 can cause problems if they are to dry. The can fingernail really bad and a cure for this is to actually dip them in water before using them. I thought that was crazzy when I first heard it but I tried it and it makes a world of differece. When I was finishing my apprenticeship we would make sure to have a pail of water on hand on test days for this very reason. That is why you don't keep 6010/6011 in an oven like you would 7018.Just thought I would share this little tip since it kind of goes against what people are traditionaly told about welding rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDThat statement is not quite true. 6010/6011 can cause problems if they are to dry. The can fingernail really bad and a cure for this is to actually dip them in water before using them. I thought that was crazzy when I first heard it but I tried it and it makes a world of differece. When I was finishing my apprenticeship we would make sure to have a pail of water on hand on test days for this very reason. That is why you don't keep 6010/6011 in an oven like you would 7018.Just thought I would share this little tip since it kind of goes against what people are traditionaly told about welding rod.
Reply:5P+ came about when the inverters did.  Since Lincoln purchased Airco, they had a 6010 electrode and thats what they used.  Ask Lincoln or I will explain, if you e-mail me.  JGSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Back in school I tied both 5p and 5p+ I didn't much care for the 5p I preffered the 5p+. Just personel prefference. We found that if the 5p+ sat in an open can for a long time they would fingernail the solution we were told was dip them in water. So when we would grab rods on test day on the way to the both we would give them a dunk in a bucket of water just to be sure they didn't give us problem. we would be welding with them with in a minute or two of dunking them. Works good it a trick I will always remember because it still sounds so wierd to me
Reply:What do you guy's mean by the term "fingernail"? I probable will understand. I think I'm from a different part of the country. Maybe we call it something else.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDThat statement is not quite true. 6010/6011 can cause problems if they are to dry. The can fingernail really bad and a cure for this is to actually dip them in water before using them. I thought that was crazzy when I first heard it but I tried it and it makes a world of differece. When I was finishing my apprenticeship we would make sure to have a pail of water on hand on test days for this very reason. That is why you don't keep 6010/6011 in an oven like you would 7018.Just thought I would share this little tip since it kind of goes against what people are traditionaly told about welding rod.
Reply:there is dry, and then there is dry....the plastic tubes are nice. they have an oring. but when you take off thecap to remove a nice "dry" rod in the summer time and its hot and humid, what kind of air goes into the tube and sealed in with the oring?......hmmmmmmmand regarding purchasing rod, i can get perfectly good hobart rod at tractor supply for less than $3 /pound... my lws sells lincoln rod for  lots more than that..they once tried to sell me some mg rod for $12/ pound..i looked at them and said it wouldnt fit in my chinese  fluxcore machine, just to phoque with their head...
Reply:Rod Guards are not an oven. But it's better than out in the open. And you can add dessicant to help with that problem."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Several people have referred to MG 80 T as a nice, easy to use rod.  I live near Grants Pass Oregon and have called our two welding supply houses (one being Industrial Source) and neither of them have ever heard of MG 80 T rods.  Could there be another designation number?  Thanks,  Ron