small pipe rail

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Here is a small pipe rail  we built.  I opted to built this out of pipe for practice.  I have a few pipe rail coming up, so I practiced on this one.  When I build multiple step rails I build the terminal ends generic.  If it is ADA rail, then I jig and build all end at one time.  This allows me to run a mitered stub off the post to connect to the pitched rail.  This eliminate the mitered/coped joint.  It also allows me to just cut pitched rails to length.  All other joints are mitered or coped.Feel free to share how you build your pipe rails.  I only build about 200 feet per year, so it is alway new.  I use the Low Buck notcher, I have had it for about 5 yrs.Last edited by tapwelder; 06-07-2008 at 11:37 PM.
Reply:That looks pretty nice; good job!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:nice job good looking rail Creative metal Creative metal Facebook
Reply:looks good,nice jobChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:that is a nice lookin rail!, i have never done any myself, but lately ive been asked to do a couple...looks like it might be fun =)-NateMiller Trailblazer 302gMiller Spoolmatic 30aLN-25 x 2Idealarc SP200Hypertherm Powermax 600
Reply:That is a nice looking rail.     I have either used a cnc mill or tube nothcher I built out of a compound from a old south bend lathe. But I have been asked to bid a few hundred feet of step rails this month and thought I should look into a more efficient way to do this. I generally dont have much for this type of work but when I do it always seems to be pretty profitable, and a couple of the guys like to get out and spend some time working outside for a change. We try to do remote work on weekends and nights during the summer, and with economy what it is a guy should make hay while the sun is shining. Our code calls for no greater then 4" between rails, so that is a ton of notching to do !   A couple grand isnt too bad to dish out if the return is there, but laying out  4 or 5 grand probably isnt reasonable-after all a new welding machine costs about that:and that makes me money every day.  Abrasives have to be a pretty dirty way  to cope !   I would guess milling is a bit cleaner in the shop. I see there are some nice annular (spelling) cutters that I thought may be adapted to a notcher ?  any thoughts on that ?    Thanks for the feed back.Dan.Repair Specialties LLC
Reply:That looks really nice, I like it. Would like to ask a few questions..did you make the inserts? How thick is the tubing, and how does it fasten to the concrete? Is it drilled, than cemented or plated and bolted? This is something I may like to do on my house. Thanks
Reply:Thanks for the compliments.ChoppedThe panels were supplied by the client.  They are some type of 1/4" crimped wire, no welds.  They cost him $300 per 4x8.  The tubing is 1-3/4" with 1/8" and 14 guage.  I used plates and bolts.Dan I don't do much of this stuff either. None on my rails have required an Architectural finish.  So the punch style notcher works well for me.  I usually Mig or stick weld.  If I were to tig, then I would go with a milled finish.  When you Mill are you close to the finished cope?  Some people use a punch notcher first, then finish with a mill, same with cope/miter joints.  I have done 180 feet 3-rail with the Low Buck, It actually goes pretty fast, though without question a hyraulic unit would be better.I would still like suggestions from others. Come on, I know there are some lurkers out there who do this stuff.
Reply:Those rails look darn good. I would love to help but have never done any out of pipe. I`ve built a lot of rails but most are ornamental or square tubing. Sorry.