Need some opinions on my aquarium stand

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The tank will be 80"x36"x20", roughly 3000 pounds in water/tank etc.  Here is the design I am hoping to use for the stand.  Using 1.5"x1/8" square tubing.  Do you guys see any flaws in this?  It will be going on a tile floor, concrete sub. I want to implement 8 leveling mounts.  Here is what I am hoping to use, 1 at each vertical support.  Any other ideas on leveling mounts?Leveling mountsLast edited by JGarrison; 03-15-2011 at 08:17 PM.
Reply:You could splay the bottom out, wider than the top to help prevent tipping but other than that, it looks bullet proof.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:JG,   Ive built stands for everything from 10 gallons to multiple 480's.  I have been a member of the DSFGA , the IFGA, ACA and FTFFA for more than 30 years.I said all that just to give you an Idea that I actually know what im talking about.On the farm we made hundreds of tanks and stands out of everything from glass, acrylic, and concrete, even wood.  One thing to be aware of is that when you start cleaning the tank....your going to get a tremendous amount of water action.....water moving from side to side.  I believe this is reffered to as a "live load"....meaning...a dynamic, moving, load that isnt centered in its porportions.Without knowing the mats your using.....the one thing I suggest for big water...is an "X" brace, connecting  the far sides together.Also...if this is going to be a saltwateer stand....chances are your going to use a wet/dry sump or refugeium with a protien skimmer and O3 (ozone).  If so....mild steel is not the way to do this; not unless your going to have it galvanized and painted.  you really need to use stainless, its stronger, and resists the salt creep effects a little bit better.One thing i noticed first off....is the horizontal supports that touch the floor....these are prime areas for salt build-up and really bad rusting.  Keep your horizontals OFF the floor so that there is air movement below them.Just send me a PM....Ill be glad to help you all I can.JD
Reply:For that amount of work and metal it could be braced.(see the really bad pic)Leveling feet can be welded nuts on the bottom with bolts in them or all the fancy feet you can find online. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks everyone!JD, I plan to coat the stand in bedliner material, several others have used it for their saltwater tanks with good results. I agree on getting the bottom up off the floor, that is why I'm hoping to use leveling feet at each vertical support.
Reply:Originally Posted by DeaconFor that amount of work and metal it could be braced.(see the really bad pic)Leveling feet can be welded nuts on the bottom with bolts in them or all the fancy feet you can find online.
Reply:The last picture looks like it has the best support and most usable space to me. I would do the diagonal braces like that instead of just gussets in the corners. I have a 125 gallon (72"x22"x18") reef tank and it is held up by a wood stand that is nowhere near as beefy as the white stand above. I would be lying though If I said I wasn't nervous every time I stuck my head under the tank for work. I would not be nervous it I had that white stand. I don't know if I would use 8 leveling points (one on each vert) though. If you do that you will have a tendency to to put pressure pushing up in the center of the tank. Or if you do put them on all 8 verts, I would use the corners to level. Then the four center ones I would only screw out until they touch the floor and then just make them snug for a little support. But putting too much upward pressure in the center of the tank seems like a bad idea to me. This is just my opinion though. Will the tank be acrylic or glass? I came out with 2077lbs of water for the dimensions given 250gal tank (assuming internal volume). If the tank is acrylic then it will probably only weigh about 150lbs at most. That leaves a lot of weight to get to that 3000lb mark. You could probably make up the rest in live rock though...
Reply:It's a glass tank, so figure a couple hundred pounds there, couple hundred pounds of rock/sand I just rounded up to 3000.  Good points on the leveling feet, thank you.
Reply:A friend of mine is big into aquariums. He mentioned that it's key that the top frame be absolutely flat or you risk leaks and cracks in the tank. You need to take some care that you don't warp the frame when you weld it up or you will have issues..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWA friend of mine is big into aquariums. He mentioned that it's key that the top frame be absolutely flat or you risk leaks and cracks in the tank. You need to take some care that you don't warp the frame when you weld it up or you will have issues.
Reply:Originally Posted by DiabolicZIt is this exact reason (flat surface) that the center leveling feet would be a concern of mine. With a glass tank you have to be even more careful from point loading it. This is not aquarium specific, but any glass.
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88If the center is not supported by feet, it will sag which I imagine would cause much bigger problems them the leveling feet.  I dont see the concern there, if the top is leveled out and flat using all 8 feet before the weight is applied, there should be no pressure points on the tank.
Reply:Have you thought about putting some waterproof plywood between the stand and the base, both to spread the load if the base sags a bit and to  protect the bottom from accidentally being broken while you're moving the equipment below it (or accidentally smash your head into it)?
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2Have you thought about putting some waterproof plywood between the stand and the base, both to spread the load if the base sags a bit and to  protect the bottom from accidentally being broken while you're moving the equipment below it (or accidentally smash your head into it)?
Reply:Your design is fine. The angle bracing in the photo would be an improvement over the small gussets in your drawing. Make them as long as you can without restricting your access. You really only need them on the end uprights. Just tack the uprights and bracing until you have it completely assembled, and warpage shouln't be an issue.