Welding helmit for tig.

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I have a 'Harbor freight" auto dark hielmet that I use for MIG welding.It seems to me that the arc for TIG is much brighter.Am I going to need a different level of darkening? #11-12 lens?
Reply:As a general rule of thumb, whenever you're welding, you want to use the darkest shade that lets you see the puddle, and where you're going with it, so if its lighter than what you're used to, then by all means, darken it a little...Are you sure that its even darkening?? It sounds like it might be stuck in its light shade, in which case, yes, it is WAY too light for any welding.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Personally, my eyes are worth more than $49. I have older friends that regret using cheap hoods over the years because they are certain their currently poor eyesight is the result of welding with cheap eye protection. The better hoods react more quickly and have adjustable shades. I think that the cheap hoods are going to make a lot of guys lose their sight later in life (maybe sooner than later). You only get one set of eyes in this life. You abuse them, you lose them.
Reply:Originally Posted by A/C GuyPersonally, my eyes are worth more than $49. I have older friends that regret using cheap hoods over the years because they are certain their currently poor eyesight is the result of welding with cheap eye protection. The better hoods react more quickly and have adjustable shades. I think that the cheap hoods are going to make a lot of guys lose their sight later in life (maybe sooner than later). You only get one set of eyes in this life. You abuse them, you lose them.
Reply:Hey James460,First, the HF helmets are fine & work well. My eyes are the most precious part of my body & would never jeopardize them for any reason. I have (2) of the blue flame helmets(shop/mobile) & they are AD from #9 to #13 shades & have a 1/25000/sec response time. I've never had any issues at all in over 5yrs of daily use. Once a month I put them in direct sunlight for a few hours. If you are having difficulty with the brightness, simply increase your setting to #11, 12, or 13 to the level that is comfortable for your eyes or vise-versa if too dark.Last year, HF had a blowout sale on their large-window AD helmets for $11.88/ea.. I bought (3) of them as did other members here. I use mine strictly for TIG as the large window really makes for a great view of the weld/material. I keep the other (2) in their box & once a month put them in sunlight to maintain the internal battery. Sadly, for some reason, HF discontinued this model & is no longer available. Here's a pic....Denny Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadbefore the ad's appeared everyone used reliable fixed shades.. and many old weldors cant see schitttt.
Reply:Originally Posted by Big65moparYea and many older welders that I've met with bad eye site also tended to not wear a shield when tacking some times or throwing a "quick" bead and working around other welders.
Reply:Originally Posted by James460I have a 'Harbor freight" auto dark hielmet that I use for MIG welding.It seems to me that the arc for TIG is much brighter.Am I going to need a different level of darkening? #11-12 lens?
Reply:Originally Posted by Big65moparYea and many older welders that I've met with bad eye site also tended to not wear a shield when tacking some times or throwing a "quick" bead and working around other welders.
Reply:With TIG you can actually get away with a flip hood some times.  The problem I find is that on thin stainless, I'm running 25-30Amps and want a shade #9.  On thicker stuff, maybe up to shade 11.  Autodark is the only way to go.If you are welding in confined spaces, you might not always be able to even flip the hood (lying on back under car for one).As far as I can tell, the only hood that has an electromagnetic sensor as opposed to just a pure light sensor is the Miller Digital Elite.  That makes it a good hood for outdoors and a good hood for confined spaces where the optical sensors might be blocked. (again, under the car).  On TIG its especially good in that it darkens when the high frequency turns on.  So it actually darkens before the arc is struck!  The only down side - and in my opinion this is a big one - is that its not auto-on.  While it turns off after a few mintues (15?) of no use, you must remember to turn it back on.  Every owner of this helmet has flashed themselves at least once.  Not to bad because it something like a shade 3 + you have all the UV protection, but you aren't going to be welding for a few minutes.  Of all my helmets, this is my preferred TIG and outdoor one. A couple other features you might want to consider.External controls.  Helmets like Arc One, Optrel etc. have them.  I personally don't like taking a gloved hand and trying to manipulate the tiny controls in the Miller.  Other have complained that controls on the outside just get knock around/off.  While you have the hood down, good luck remember which way lightens and darkens, you will still remove the helmet to make the change (esp if your not doing it every day).The ability to weld overhead - that is sparks flying in your face.  The Millers aren't good in my opinion because they have a lip on the shield that catches the sparks (and in one case partially melted the rubber seal).  Optrel are highly regarded by some for the ability to weld overhead.  MIG welding under a car is the worst.Coloration.  Autodark lenses have different colors to them that can affect what details you can see.  The Miller digital series have a light greenish brown.  Some helmets are deep green (hate those).  I understand Optrel's and some Jacksons are blue (lots of people seem to like that).As for cheaper options.  There are lots of bargain basement options.  One thing about Harbor Freight is you know your not overpaying.  Contrast that with a company like Milwaukee - most of their tools are "built and inspected" in China.  That's fine, but don't expect me to pay more than I would for a Royobi, Dewalt etc.  For Chinese tools I pay Chinese prices.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomBy the way. I am just old enough to see that you misspelled "bad eye site"SHOULD BE , bad eye sight. But I am older. Site is like WEB SITE.
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomIn general TIG welding requires a 10,11,12 shade.Mig welding and stick welding require a #12 or #14 shade.Different helmets, different people will change at too.IT also depends on how long during the day you are welding.But when you are welding you need to be able to clearly see the weld pool.Not all the stuff around it but the weld pool.If your eyes hurt (feel bruised), the following day after welding you need a darker shade.I would have a separate helmet for TIG because it will not get  contaminated with smoke and spatter like the MIG helmet.