Aluminum automotive cyl. head

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Just received a call about welding on a set of Brodix aluminum heads. It's my undestandin that they started to drill some holes in the wrong location, and need them welded in. I will probably just tig them with 4043. If anyone has experience in this any info would be greatly appreciated. I havent seen the job yet so I really dont have alot of info.  Thanxs, Adam
Reply:You probably want to send a personal message to Zapster.  He works with this kind of stuff a lot.  See....http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=4175Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Plan on getting some helium to weld with.
Reply:you will want to use 5356 (cast)...(4043 if the heads are BILLET)how deep are the holes and where are they located?more info is needed before you just weld away ...zap!Last edited by zapster; 03-18-2006 at 09:36 PM.
Reply:thanks for the info on filler rod! as far as I know the guy started to drill the steam holes so he can run them on a 400 ci small block chevy, the drill bit started to walk & he stopped. they just need a little weld to fill in the dent, so he can file it off & try againOnce again thanxs for the info, I'll find out if there cast or billet
Reply:If the weld area is 1/4"  or under that thickness, You should be able to AC Tig weld it with straight Argon with a balled tungsten or get some 75/25  Argon Helium.If the area you are welding is thicker that 1/4", you can use Helium on DC straight polarity Tig.  You will want to use a pointed tungsten. You may also have to scratch start the arc if the start only high frequency won't start the arc wih the straight Helium. The casting may flair up if it's old,   but should weld fine if it's nice and clean
Reply:Originally Posted by MetalSculptorIf the weld area is 1/4"  or under that thickness, You should be able to AC Tig weld it with straight Argon with a balled tungsten or get some 75/25  Argon Helium.If the area you are welding is thicker that 1/4", you can use Helium on DC straight polarity Tig.  You will want to use a pointed tungsten. You may also have to scratch start the arc if the start only high frequency won't start the arc wih the straight Helium. The casting may flair up if it's old,   but should weld fine if it's nice and clean
Reply:Is the head prone to warping after-wards? I have a head (cast) that I may fix for ***** and grins (a spare that no one really wants since it is cracked). I am very curious to learn the proper procedure.Thanks in advance.Tony
Reply:heads are prone to warping if you dont follow proper procedure...since I dont do heads...but I am familiar to a degree with them...just enough to be dangerous, I know Zap is weird and kinda nutty, but he does know his stuff when it comes to this.  And yes your head will warp if you dont do it right.  PM zap for more specific answers pertaining.  If you ask nicely he might even give you some helpful tips IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:If you will counter sink the holes you won't have to use as much heat to start the puddle at the bottom of the hole, then work your way up and fill it up.  With ac hf argon you will get the cleaning action you wouldn't get using dc negative and helium
Reply:Epoxy may be a solution to this problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by TxRedneckheads are prone to warping if you dont follow proper procedure...since I dont do heads...but I am familiar to a degree with them...just enough to be dangerous, I know Zap is weird and kinda nutty, but he does know his stuff when it comes to this.  And yes your head will warp if you dont do it right.  PM zap for more specific answers pertaining.  If you ask nicely he might even give you some helpful tips
Reply:76 GMC 1500 sed: try epoxy . it might work. I've seen aluminum blocks(outboard motors) epoxied  with MARINE  TEX -it's the best , in my opinion. In my experience, Aluminum is  a  bitch. I always need straight  helium , when 1/8th " or thicker , or maybe about 80% helium &20% argon . The message is : every damn aluminum weld is different & cleanliness of weld area is PARAMOUNT !Grind or buff weld area &clean with Acetone & also the weld wire .( the weld wire always comes oily or greasy )  make it sanitary or better yet , sterile . I know I am a fanatic, i learned the hard way .
Reply:Just wanted to tell everyone thanxs for the advice. I used 3/32-5356, AC & 100% argon. Everything went smoothly, I just wish I'd snapped some pics. before I returned the heads. It went so good it was almost scary. LOLRock On, Adam
Reply:I once cracked the block on my cr250 dirt bike and found JB weld worked beautifully and the sent it to the machine shop and got it bored to 40 over and it still runs today 10 years since the repair!!Nobody moves nobody gets hurt(safety first)millematic passportmiller 375 plasmacutter
Reply:Originally Posted by 72sportyJust wanted to tell everyone thanxs for the advice. I used 3/32-5356, AC & 100% argon. Everything went smoothly, I just wish I'd snapped some pics. before I returned the heads. It went so good it was almost scary. LOLRock On, Adam
Reply:anything new ???
Reply:Originally Posted by MetalSculptorIf the area you are welding is thicker that 1/4", you can use Helium on DC straight polarity Tig.
Reply:Originally Posted by JDHMetalSculptor:When you drove your first car/truck did you do it by yourself ?When you repaired your first cylinder head did you do it by yourself ? I don't mean to upset anyone, but welding is a trade that needs to be shown to the apprentice from the Zapster!Sorry, couldn't resist!