Trailer Conversion

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Here are a few pictures of my current project.  I'm converting a boat trailer for a 16' fish and ski to a utility trailer. Attached Images
Reply:And the rest of the pictures....The welds may not look like much.... but I know there is good penetration.....The rod at the back is there to allow two ramps to swing up and down for loading mowers, etc.. Attached Images
Reply:I think it looks like a neat job of recycling.  Ought to work out goodIt looks like you left enough of the tongue stickin' out to still be able to jacknife it pretty tight.Guy that used to buy hay from me modified a mobile construction office trailer frame to make a flatbed for hauling hay.  Should of seen the # of bales we piled on that thing.
Reply:Thanks for the compliments.There was a cross-piece already there.  I basically squared-off the front using that as a guide.  The original trailer was nowhere near square.  I also discovered that the rear of the trailer was about an 1" narrower than the front after I squared it off.... oh joy
Reply:I hope you realize that the axle needs to be moved forward to give you the proper ratio of tongue weight. By the looks of the pictures the axle needs to come forward somewhere in the neighborhood of a foot or so to make it right. For proper axle placement the axle centerline needs to be 60% rearward of the front edge of the deck, also the coupler should be at or about 42" from the front edge of the deck as well. DaveI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39I hope you realize that the axle needs to be moved forward to give you the proper ratio of tongue weight. By the looks of the pictures the axle needs to come forward somewhere in the neighborhood of a foot or so to make it right. For proper axle placement the axle centerline needs to be 60% rearward of the front edge of the deck, also the coupler should be at or about 42" from the front edge of the deck as well. Dave
Reply:Yes the 60% is measured from the front edge of the trailer deck and 42" is what the tongue should extend forward from the front edge of the deck. Also the coupler should sit approx. 16 to 21" from the ground depending on tire size to keep trailer level. The height is based on the average hitch height on most pick ups. If truck is higher than this height you should adjust buy using a drop reciever on your tow vehicle.                                                                                             DaveI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:It's a seat of the pants conversion.  I'm sorry but I never wanted to go here.Sure, it would be nice if the axle were moved forward.  Requires some out of position welding.  Maybe some folks aren't capable of doing these kind of welds in a workmanlike manner.The guy building it is doing something that a lot of other folks wouldn't even attempt.  I think that's a good thing.  It looks relatively safe.  From what I see the most that could happen is the cantalever failing at the front squared off section of the trlr., or the hinge failing at the rear of the trailer.  I still think it's not a bad concept.When loading the trailer, it's gonna be self evident that the springs on the trlr. are gonna do some serious compressing.  The bumper is gonna start saggin' too.  Easy thing to see.  It's the sign that maybe it's about enough stuff to pile on it.Ain't a thing in the world that's perfect.  Some folks don't have the money, the requisite perfected skills, or experience.  The fulcrum between tongue and axle is too long to support a heavy load unless it's beefed up.  OK.  The beam (fulcrum) carrying the load is not of sufficient depth in the web.  OK  For Chrissake, the guy's talkin' about something to carry lawnmowers.  If he overloads it, it will probably bend as he's goin out the driveway.Most folks around here don't have a lot of moola.  We get by as best as we can.Horror of Horrors.  It's still a common sight around here to see a trailer made with "trailer house axles".  The old more-than-one-use axles are still out there, and people use 'em.  Mostly illegal in other states, might even be illegal here, don't know.  But ya see 'em goin' down the road at 70.  Long as ya keep the tires at 80psi, they're pretty safe.Now I don't know how much a boat weighs, but it seems that if that trlr. could haul a boat, it must be pretty sound.  Again, I have no idea about boat weight distribution.Kinder ways of giving a pointer.  Like...."Maybe a guy oughta........".So my rant's over.  Ban me to Siberia.
Reply:I did not mean to sound like I was bashing the OP, just giving him some knowledge he may not have known or realized.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39I did not mean to sound like I was bashing the OP, just giving him some knowledge he may not have known or realized.
Reply:Sorry, I saw it coming. Wicrules project looks fine, it's an adaptation that will do a job and serve as a platform to increase his practical knowledge and experience in welding in general. I also know of Dabar39's experience in trailer building. And that is why I reiterated his observations. While I do not get much into trailer designing, I have had my share of retrofit mobile home axled, recycled frame, old pickup bed, hack job trailers, many in fact have been either mine or family members. As it is, I am staring an old travel trailer demolition job right in the face. (my sisters trailer) After that, I have a '53 Dodge truck, that will need the front end and cab dismantled. I just don't have the resources to bring it back from the dead.Know anyone interested in take offs from an M-37?City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Here is a similar conversion. Used to be a 14 foot boat trailer. Worked out well to haul around this old miller. Attached Images Maine Welding Company & Wrought Iron Powered by Custom Web Development
Reply:Hey guys..... cool down This trailer is not intended to carry a huge, heavy load.  I'm doing it simply because my "good" trailer is not wide enough to carry our riding lawnmowers around on.  I do the maintenance on my family's lawn equipment and its a lot easier to do at my shop.  I am not going to be loading a tractor, car, etc. on this thing.I haven't decided if I am going to move the axle or not.  I have a 2500HD, so I'm not overly concerned based on the kinds of loads I will be towing.As far as the back bumper giving way, The ramps will have verticals down to the ground when they are in loading position.  Kind of like what you see on a lot of the large tractor/car haulers.  So I'm not too concerned about it.  And, there is a 1/4" angle brace back to that cross member in the center of the bumper (you can't see it in the pictures).And, btw, I do know about all of the 60% rules, etc.  I have an uncle who built custom trailers for 40+ years and he has given me tons of info.  I need to to this conversion on a shoe-string budget, so I am doing it based on what I will be hauling.  I'm not trying to make this thing into a monster rig Thanks for the feedback and the suggestions!Wic
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39Yes the 60% is measured from the front edge of the trailer deck and 42" is what the tongue should extend forward from the front edge of the deck. Also the coupler should sit approx. 16 to 21" from the ground depending on tire size to keep trailer level. The height is based on the average hitch height on most pick ups. If truck is higher than this height you should adjust buy using a drop reciever on your tow vehicle.                                                                                             Dave
Reply:Tractapac, It's figured in with the 60% rearward location of the axle to maintain about 15% total tongue weight.Anything more than 15% tongue weight makes the trailer unstable and starts the swaying motion, If you've ever had a trailer start swaying at highway speeds you figure out right quick how scary a feeling it is. Not to mention how dangerous it becomes in a hurry. Once they get to swaying it's hard to get them back. Most traffic accidents involving trailers have a few common denominators: inexperienced operator, poor maintenance, improper load balance, excessive speed and/or poor engineering or all of the above. The majority of trailer accidents are single vehicle and usually on the Interstate or similar roadways.To some of the others:I was simply trying to point out a potentially dangerous situation to the OP, take it for what it's worth but this ain't my first day on the job either. It's my second and I was two hours late but that doesn't change the axle needing to be moved forward for safe operation.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Thanks for the concern.  I understand about axle location and sway.  I pull a 23' TT regularly....The trailer was orginally used to pull a boat which has the bulk of the weight in the rear.  that is why the axle is so far back.  I haven't decided whether I am going to move it or not....
Reply:Nice conversion! I like the way you squared the front end and blended the side rails. Easy rule of thumb on axle placement is 1/2" behind center for every foot of trailer length including tongue. The farther back the axle sits, the more load the tongue has, the less sway. Not telling anyone to overload the tongue just this trailer should never sway going down the road.
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediverKnow anyone interested in take offs from an M-37?
Reply:Originally Posted by flatbustedbrokeNice conversion! I like the way you squared the front end and blended the side rails. Easy rule of thumb on axle placement is 1/2" behind center for every foot of trailer length including tongue. The farther back the axle sits, the more load the tongue has, the less sway. Not telling anyone to overload the tongue just this trailer should never sway going down the road.
Reply:Been building trailers (big and small from little utilities custom semi's) for over 20 years.
Reply:As far as the swaying thing goes if the tongue weight caused it look out because almost every semi running down the road should be, as well as every goose neck or fifth wheel trailer (I know I see a lot of them that do but when you pass them look at the grey hair driving thats where the sway comes from).
Reply:How can you compare a bumper pull to a gooseneck or fifth wheel set up. That's like comparing your granma to the hot chick next door, you just can't do it!I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Attachment point doesn't change a lot, the weight on the front end of trailer is still there no matter where you attach to the towing vehicle the only way to move significant amounts of weight off the tongue or coupler is to move the axle or axles toward the front or move the cargo farther back. Otherwise you still have the same amount of weight on the coupler no matter what style of coupler you use.
Reply:HUH............................????????????I'm not quite understanding you logic here. please elaborate a little more. DaveI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Weight and BalanceSway is a fishtailing motion of the trailer, caused by external forces that set the trailer's mass into lateral motion with the trailer's wheels serving as the axis or pivot point. The motion is a sideways seesaw. All conventionally hitched trailers will sway slightly in response to crosswinds or the bow wave of an 18-wheeler overtaking from the rear. The good ones will need little correction by the driver and will quickly restabilize. Only poorly set-up trailers will continue to sway after the force that caused the instability has ceased. In fact, in poorly balanced trailers, the sway motion may increase until control is lost. Unfortunately, most evaluations of sway problems focus on the hitch or the tow vehicle, but the trailer's weight distribution often is the primary cause.Following are points on how to tell a well-behaved trailer from a poor one, and how to correct a problem in a trailer that you may already own.Trailer CheckupA trailer's inherent stability is part of its design, based on the amount of weight in front of the axles vs. the amount of weight behind. The difference between these two weight masses is the amount of weight on the trailers hitch, which is called the hitch weight or tongue wight.Trailers with insufficient hitch weight have two deficiencies: The percentage of weight (mass) behind the axle(s) is too high, so when set in motion it acts as a pendulum; and the distance between the hitch ball and the trailer axles is insufficient.Simply stated, trailers with a high proportion of hitch weight to gross weight usually have more of their length ahead of the axles, and they handle better. The generally accepted industry standard is that hitch weight should be approximately 10 percent of gross weight. In fact, that is a bare minimum, and some trailers with 10 percent hitch weight do not handle well. Hitch weights of 12 percent or higher (up to the weight limits of the hitch and vehicle beings used) assure proper handling.In marginal situations, the owner's ability to handle and unstable trailer will depend on the inherent stability of the tow vehicle, which is yet another variable. A truck or van with a long wheelbase, a relatively short rear overhang and stiff springs often will at least partially make up for a trailer's lack of inherent stability, whereas if the trailer is towed by a softly sprung vehicle with a long overhang, the trailer's shortcomings will be more obvious.Didn't I say what you copied and pasted in fewer words above. Also if you do the math your 1/2" rule puts you placing your axle more forward than doing it the 60% way myself and the rest of the industry is doing it. You just contradicted yourself, just trying to clarify which is which. I may be misinterpreting what you are trying to convey to the board and just trying to understand it better myself.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Just for the record, the half inch rule is acceptable as it is usually only a matter of a few inches difference (forward) in the axle centerline from the 60% (more rearward) method and usually does not effect the center of gravity or tongue weights significantly.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39How can you compare a bumper pull to a gooseneck or fifth wheel set up. That's like comparing your granma to the hot chick next door, you just can't do it!
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersamm...Now I don't know how much a boat weighs, but it seems that if that trlr. could haul a boat, it must be pretty sound.  Again, I have no idea about boat weight distribution....
Reply:Stability pulling a trailer is a function of two things (aside of the driver) ....   distance between the trailer axle and the coupler, and weight (or lack of weight) on the tongue.  The longer the distance between the axle and the coupler, the more stable the unit will be .....   but if you have too little, or negative weight; or too much weight on the tongue, you are asking for trouble.   As in any trailer, how you load it, and where you put the weight, is more important than anything else.  I have built trailers with the axle(s) all the way down to the back end, and up to 40% of the distance from the tongue, for specific purposes, but they get used for other things also.  As long as the weight distribution is right, all is fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by MondoI would think a boat trailer would be well suited for conversion to hauling lawn mowers.  The axel may beg for relocation forward to reduce tongue weight, though. -Mondo
Reply:I've now modified two trailers to the 1" behind centre for each foot of deck length, simply because that's a figure I'd found on the net. Although this method would place it slightly ahead of where it would be with a 60/40 split, it has still given an appreciable improvement on the original trailer I did in comparison to its previous towing performance. The second was a trailer I bought an rebuilt. I'd be keen to try another using the 60/40 split, but it'll happen if or when I need another trailer, I'm not going to buy an experiment!So far I've heard 1'' behind centre, 15/16th" behind centre and 1/2" behind centre, all per foot of deck length. Also the 60:40 ratio. As an example, ignoring the math of working with 15/16th", on a 20 foot deck, 60:40 would place the axle 144" back from the front of the deck and the 1"/ft of deck would be at 140" back. From personal experience I'd be happy with either of these but as I said I'd like to try the 60/40 method next time. My only concern for the trailer of the OP is that of a practical nature. If it's left as it is, it'll always be nose heavy to do anything with, especially when it's not hooked up to a vehicle. I'd be inclined to follow Mondo's suggestion and flip it over to give easier cutting, grinding and welding access and shift the axle forward. Just my .02c worth"One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Hey guys!That trailer is a heavy SOB even as is.  Fortunately, there is a swing-down jack with a wheel on it so it can be moved around easier.I'm not saying the trailer won't sway, but as was mentioned earlier, the stiff rear-end and load capacity of my truck will prevent most of it.  And, the surface area available to cause the sway is pretty minimal.  Again, a lawnmower, 1/2 yard gravel, mulch, etc is all that will be placed on this thing.Since I pull a TT a good bit, I will chime in on the sway issue a little more.  As was mentioned, a TT attached to the correct hitch (not the bumper which is even worse...) acts as lever wanting to force the rear-end of the TV side to side.  If the TV and sway control/weight-distribution of the trailer is incorrect, that can cause the trailer to start swaying.  About the only way to stop it is to speed the TV up and/or keep a steady speed and apply trailer brakes using the manual control on the brake controller.  For goose-necks and fifth-wheels, they mount over the rear axle.  If you think about it, getting the rear axle to move side-to-side from directly overhead is a lot harder than the fulcrum action mentioned earlier.  That is why fifth-wheels and goose-necks are safer/easier to tow than TTs.Just my two-cents worth as well....
Reply:Originally Posted by wicrulesHey guys!That trailer is a heavy SOB even as is.  Fortunately, there is a swing-down jack with a wheel on it so it can be moved around easier.I'm not saying the trailer won't sway, but as was mentioned earlier, the stiff rear-end and load capacity of my truck will prevent most of it.  And, the surface area available to cause the sway is pretty minimal.  Again, a lawnmower, 1/2 yard gravel, mulch, etc is all that will be placed on this thing.Since I pull a TT a good bit, I will chime in on the sway issue a little more.  As was mentioned, a TT attached to the correct hitch (not the bumper which is even worse...) acts as lever wanting to force the rear-end of the TV side to side.  If the TV and sway control/weight-distribution of the trailer is incorrect, that can cause the trailer to start swaying.  About the only way to stop it is to speed the TV up and/or keep a steady speed and apply trailer brakes using the manual control on the brake controller.  For goose-necks and fifth-wheels, they mount over the rear axle.  If you think about it, getting the rear axle to move side-to-side from directly overhead is a lot harder than the fulcrum action mentioned earlier.  That is why fifth-wheels and goose-necks are safer/easier to tow than TTs.Just my two-cents worth as well....
Reply:Mark8310 hit it on the head, it's all about the center of gravity. If the OP finds the center of gravity and loads it accordingly then no it won't sway, but seems kinda silly having to place your load to the rear and leave the front empty. why not just  place the axle in the proper location and utilize the whole deck evenly?The average trailer owner does not have the sense to find the center of gravity on their own, the 60/40 rule was devised so that the cargo could be placed in the trailer bed just forward of the axle at what spot........yes, you guessed it, the center of the trailer or center of gravity. Now if you just place the axle where ever you feel, you still need to find the center of gravity to pull correctly with out swaying. There are many variables effecting the center of gravity as well, if the trailer is not sitting level on the tow vehicle and the load is centered you have changed the COG, tongue above level moves COG towards the rear, Tongue less than level puts COG forward of center. If the load is placed too far forward or to far to the rear etc...etc...I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Ya pretty well know ya maybe pulled a little too far forward with the tractor when the tires on the PU blow, bumper falls off, and the springs go shootin' out into the yard.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammYa pretty well know ya maybe pulled a little too far forward with the tractor when the tires on the PU blow, bumper falls off, and the springs go shootin' out into the yard.
Reply:I just wanna know what color it's gonna be?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:farmersamm, No, I didn't know I was going to start such a storm.....I have a smaller, heavy-duty trailer that was built by my uncle 20+ years ago.  That thing is a bulldog.  I went to a sod farm a couple of summers ago and they loaded a pallet for me.  Problem was it was too wide for the tailer.  They pushed and worked until they wedged it in far enough to close the tailgate.  That trailer about beat me to death on the way home because the load was behind the axle.  Never again!  I had to cut the pallet in half to get it out since they pushed it in with a fork-lift duaneb55, I will probably paint it black like my other trailer.  That way I can touch-up easily enough with Rust-Oleum spray paint.  It will have Rust-Oleum Industrial over primer as the real coating.The thing has three different colors right now- bare metal, burgendy red and fire-engine red.  My brother thought it would look better bright red when we still had the boat.... he brushed it over the original paint.... needless to say, most of that has flaked off by now.Later!
Reply:Hey RJThat is indeed a Hesston 1014.  It's getting to be a lone stranger.  Not too many of 'em left running.  It still does an excellent job.  Even worse, I picked up a Hesston 1010, and fully restored it.  I got tired of cutting haygrazer with the 1014 (what a mess).  The conditioner in the 1014 is too narrow for anything but prairie hay.  The 1010 has a full width crimper on it.  Perfect for haygrazer.So now I use the 1014 for native grass, and the 1010 for the tall stuff.This ain't a farm, it's a museum.Thread's already goin' in the toilet, so I figured I'd finish it off.  Enjoy the pics. #1- Hesston 1014#2-restoration 1010#3-same#4- proof what the old machines are capable of.  1010 in the field. (haven't gotten around to straightening the winrow shield yet)#5- A LOT OF HAY.  WOO HOO Attached Images
Reply:Second the loading info; my small trailer tows perfectly with a moto which balences with a tongue weight of 40 lbs or so. Car is rated for 200 lbs max. Loaded it with a negative tongue weight once and had to pull over and reload as it fishtailed all over the road. Normally it is on rails....Also I have always installed a slight amount of toe in on my axels. Seems to work well also. On my stub axels I used a piece of hacksaw blade under the back edge on each side before I welded it on to the rail. For some reason trailers are a sensitive subject on this board. I have been flamed for my unit even though it has worked perfectly for a lot of miles. Hide bound by tradition I expect...Last edited by sunline; 09-03-2008 at 11:20 AM.Airco 300 squarewaveMig welding center...Powcon sm300/LN 25Powcon sm200/PD lHypertherm PM 1100Miller AEAD 200LE W/LN25 FCand now another sm200 pd l combo.
Reply:Originally Posted by wicrulesThanks for the concern.  I understand about axle location and sway.  I pull a 23' TT regularly....The trailer was orginally used to pull a boat which has the bulk of the weight in the rear.  that is why the axle is so far back.  I haven't decided whether I am going to move it or not....
Reply:Originally Posted by wicrulesHey guys!That trailer is a heavy SOB even as is.  Fortunately, there is a swing-down jack with a wheel on it so it can be moved around easier.I'm not saying the trailer won't sway, but as was mentioned earlier, the stiff rear-end and load capacity of my truck will prevent most of it.  And, the surface area available to cause the sway is pretty minimal.  Again, a lawnmower, 1/2 yard gravel, mulch, etc is all that will be placed on this thing.Since I pull a TT a good bit, I will chime in on the sway issue a little more.  As was mentioned, a TT attached to the correct hitch (not the bumper which is even worse...) acts as lever wanting to force the rear-end of the TV side to side.  If the TV and sway control/weight-distribution of the trailer is incorrect, that can cause the trailer to start swaying.  About the only way to stop it is to speed the TV up and/or keep a steady speed and apply trailer brakes using the manual control on the brake controller.  For goose-necks and fifth-wheels, they mount over the rear axle.  If you think about it, getting the rear axle to move side-to-side from directly overhead is a lot harder than the fulcrum action mentioned earlier.  That is why fifth-wheels and goose-necks are safer/easier to tow than TTs.Just my two-cents worth as well....
Reply:Broccoli1, I don't want to start a war, but I can guarantee you the TV can and does have an impact on how a trailer will tow.  Ask anyone who has towed a TT, 5th wheel, etc.  The stiffer the rear-end and the more "rubber on the road", the less likely the trailer is to sway due to the reduced ability for it to act as a fulcrum on the tow vehicle.  I towed our TT with a Z-71 1500 for a while before switching to my 2500HD.  There is a world of difference in the setup of the sway control and towing between the two trucks.  I would never go back.  And, btw, lack of power was not the issue.  It was the softer suspension on the Z71.Also, a large, heavy trailer with sway control only is more likely to sway due to the incorrect weight ratio on the tongue- i.e. too light or too heavy.  The WD also helps to distribute the weight appropriately to the TV so that it can help moderate sway.I'm not going to argue over this point.  I know from experience.  Spend a little time on a TT forum and you will get the same kind of response from the old-timers over there.
Reply:Originally Posted by wicrules  Spend a little time on a TT forum and you will get the same kind of response from the old-timers over there.
Reply:Load up the OP's Trailer with 500lbs behind the wheels and use any truck you want- it will sway.( I have nothing against the trailer mentioned- just using it as an example)Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:What it boils down to is if it's worth fixin, it's worth fixin right.But then again, that might just be the level pride I put into my work speaking and others may think good enough is all that is necessary.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Originally Posted by MEWelding.comHere is a similar conversion. Used to be a 14 foot boat trailer. Worked out well to haul around this old miller.
Reply:spotted at  least one good  tractor it  was green.. i  have a 1650 and  a  oliver 550 Originally Posted by farmersammHey RJThat is indeed a Hesston 1014.  It's getting to be a lone stranger.  Not too many of 'em left running.  It still does an excellent job.  Even worse, I picked up a Hesston 1010, and fully restored it.  I got tired of cutting haygrazer with the 1014 (what a mess).  The conditioner in the 1014 is too narrow for anything but prairie hay.  The 1010 has a full width crimper on it.  Perfect for haygrazer.So now I use the 1014 for native grass, and the 1010 for the tall stuff.This ain't a farm, it's a museum.Thread's already goin' in the toilet, so I figured I'd finish it off.  Enjoy the pics. #1- Hesston 1014#2-restoration 1010#3-same#4- proof what the old machines are capable of.  1010 in the field. (haven't gotten around to straightening the winrow shield yet)#5- A LOT OF HAY.  WOO HOO
Reply:where did you  find  a trailor like  that  i like it  and the oliver tractor also Originally Posted by farmersammI agree that they're 2 different animals.  It still boils down to hitch weight in the end.  The gooseneck allows for a much higher hitch weight because it rests over the driving axle of the pulling vehicle.  It's not sittin' 4' back of the drivers acting as a fulcrum.By allowing more weight to be transferred onto, and ahead of the drivers (I like to mount the gooseneck ball 6" ahead of the driver) in order to transfer some weight to the steering axle, you can start to pull some pretty healthy loads.Because of the increased possible tongue weight, it is common to move the tandems on the trailer as far back as possible.  You'll see that most heavy duty goosenecks designed to haul equipment have the tandems just a few feet ahead of the beavertail.  It simply makes for better handling.This is a trailer I own which is designed to haul round bales.  It's a good design.  The bales are loaded and pushed on from the back.  The entire rail assembly is hinged 1" off center.  To unload, you simply unlock the latch, swing out an attached pole, and lift up on the pole.  It's enough to tip the entire rail and load sideways, and the bales spill over the right side.  I bought this baby in a heartbeat when they first came out.BUT.......  In order to place the hinge assy. in a central position,  the tandems were moved forward to a central position, it violates the principles you all have talked about.  In this case there's TOO LITTLE tongue weight.  This trailer handles like crap, and when empty the hitch beats the ball to death.  Loaded is better, but it will sway if you don't keep an eye on it.My feeling has always been.. Get that axle as far back as possible without overloading the hitch.Now off to do one of my favorite jobs.  Fix fence