Newbie-- Can anyone critique??

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All of these were done w/ a lincoln 110v Mig, w/argon/co2 mix.  Please let me know what you think. I know they're not real great and would like to improve greatly.  I also know this isn't the greatest welder but it was all I could afford.  Please let me know any ideas or tips!!
Thanks again!!
Reply:Hey not bad, looks like you might be slightly cold but you may not be able to help that. It looks a little crowned. Now try welding 2 pieces together. You are definatly on the right track. Stick with it. --Gol'
Reply:The last pic is of 2 plates welded together.  What do you mean by "cold" and "crowned" and how would I fix it? Would that mean going a little slower and let it penetrate a little more? Thanks for the info!!Last edited by CraigS; 09-17-2008 at 12:30 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by CraigSThe last pic is of 2 plates welded together.  What do you mean by "cold" and "crowned" and how would I fix it? Would that mean going a little slower and let it penetrate a little more? Thanks for the info!!
Reply:Thank you for the info!!!  I'll play around with it and see what I can do.  Thanks again!!!
Reply:Your machine should have come with an owners manual that will show some weld profiles. You have a common question that has been answer many times here on this forum. I don't mind critiqueing your weld but if you search the forum you will find a ton of visual examples. I was going to say that your weld profile was too high. It looks like you were moving rather slowly. That's not such a bad thing per se. Try the same settings and move a little faster, let's see what it looks like. And we all weld on dirty steel. I know it. I have seen it. But if you want to see a nice clear picture of what you are doing, try cleaning that material before you weld it. I have found that dunking the coupons in a muriatic acid solution will remove most of the mill scale. You can go the extra mile and wipe with acetone if you like. Most people just take a grinder with a flap disc and get a shiny spot and it's on. Do what works best for you.Welcome to the motley crew of welders. Some people prefer WELDORS. With best intentions,Joker11Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Its a great start.  Don't knock the lincoln mig, I have one and love it.  It has its place.Try grinding the mill scale off before you weld.Weld 2 pieces together, then beat em apart with a big hammer.  David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Whadda ya mean they are not good?? Those welds look pretty good, especially for a beginner! Maybe a little cold, but that is just because we don't see much coloration from the heat around the bead. Also, the bead looks a little like a caterpillar on top of the metal which is the crowned weld. Also, the edges of the bead are not completely wetted in; the edges should look a little more like the bead flowed into the base metal. Slower hand speed, higher heat can fix this. BTW, what settings, and how thick of a plate?? If you are welding on top of a big 1/4" plate, or maybe even 3/16, you will need a lot of heat before the weld gets hot enough to flow into the plate well. This goes for every welder- mig, tig, stick, torch. Try to practice on 3/16 and 1/8". That is what that machine excels at. 1/4" will need preheat.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Thanks for all the help!!  I'll work on it and get some more pics soon.  The steel was dirty and I know it was kinda thick, but it was free scrap from a buddy.  I'll keep trying and reading up on all the stuff you guys mentioned.
Reply:It is ALL about the prep work-You HAVE to clean the mill scale off with these little machines running solid wire and Gas.You will notice a significant difference in performanceDon't be afraid of the Fluxcore wire either-Smokey?, yes... but it will work great on 3/16".Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Flux core yes, but leave the gas on and it works well, turn the gas off and it's so-so and can be pretty messy.Lincoln PT185 TIGLincoln 175 MIGLincoln 240 amp AC StickLind Needle Arc plasma welderPlasma cutter, soon???
Reply:The fluxcore used in little migs is self shielding, it needs no gas.Gas is the flux for bare wire.Edit: Grind the plate and run another bead next to the one you have.  Same settings if you want.David Last edited by David R; 09-17-2008 at 05:57 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:The fluxcore used in little migs is self shielding, it needs no gas.Gas is the flux for bare wire.
Reply:Timberwolf could I borrow some of your money....Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:HAHAHA, good point, gas is not cheap. But you want a good weld or a cheap weld.In the big picture of total cost is gas the big factor? You don't need huge flow either just a few CFM will help keep air out of the weld. Just an observation, could well be wrong on what is happening, but adding shielding helps keep the puddle less turbulent as the molten metal is not reacting with the air, this then helps the slag from the flux core foat on top and form a nice shielding crust, fewer inclusions, nicer bead, less splatter.I will use gas and flux core if I am trying to push the limits on thickness, Otherwise as you indicate just solid wire and gas with price in mind.Lincoln PT185 TIGLincoln 175 MIGLincoln 240 amp AC StickLind Needle Arc plasma welderPlasma cutter, soon???