How do I set up a Tig welder?

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This is my first post so be gentle.Where I work has a Thermal Arc Model 185TSW.No one knows how to set the machine up.  So it is not being used.I have tried to use it and can do some welding with it.  But I am not happy with the results.My question is how do I set it up to weld 1/8 302 stainless steel wire to 1/8 stainless steel wire.I have tungsten electrode with red paint from .040 to 3/32Argon gas.Foot pedalIf you can please explain the parameters I need but also how do I enter them.This is the first tig welder I have ever tried to use.
Reply:ww,I have joined the ends of small stainless wires (0.035 & 0.062") together by using a "spot weld" technique.  Basically, the critical parameters are weld time, weld current, tungsten position, and wire joint prep and position.  A very short, single pulse of current can be used to precisely melt the carefully butted ends of small wires.  This technique is also great for tacking thin sheet metal, etc. and is used in joining small thermocouple wires.The short pulse of current can be achieved by simply giving the foot pedal a rapid tap, but since your welder has a spot timer, this is much more precise.  You will have to experiment, but I would start with a very short spot weld duration of 0.5 second and a current of 100 amps, then adjust current up or down.  Your welder also has a "Hot Start" adjustment which you may want to experiment with.The ends of the wire should be square and smooth cut so they can be butted tightly together.  The tungsten to work distance should be as close as possible, about 0.030", no more than 0.060", and positioned precisely square above the joint.  A 1/16 or 3/32" diameter tungsten should be OK and the tip should be nicely ground to sharp point.You can lay the wire on a steel table or a piece of copper of aluminum that is thick enough to prevent it from melting when spot welding the wires directly on the surface, or alternatively you could try positioning the wire joint over a small hole in a metal surface such that the weld occurs in "mid air".For most consistent results you can experiment with fixturing the wires and the the torch.  Maybe you clamp the torch above the wire joint so you don't have to try to hold it precisely, and hold the wires in place along a straight edge or "V" groove of some sort.  You may try applying some axial pressure to the joint, pushing the wires together by hand as the weld occurs.Hope you find some success with this technique.  Since you mention this your first use of a TIG welder, I will mention that you should use a minimal gas flow rate of about 10 cfh, this should be plenty, and excessive flow rates just cause turbulence and weld contamination.  Also, you will want to set a brief second or two of "preflow" and "postflow" time to ensure shielding of the weld.
Reply:I didn't do a good job of explaining what I am doing and what I need.I will be welding the wire like a TOn the set up I don't have any idea how to set the controls on the machine.I have never tried to adjust the controls on a TIG I have used one but never have I set one up.Can anyone tell me step by step how to set the controls. pulse, slope ac, dc????on my 185TSW  to Weld the 1/8 diameter 302 stainless steel wireI appreciate any help I can get.
Reply:Have you tried reading the owner's manual?http://www.thermadyne.com/uplFiles/l...430429_503.pdf
Reply:I would use the following:3/32 thoriated tungsten, 60 degree included angle, .010 blunt on tipGas lens, #8 cupArgon shield gas, @20scfhHigh Freq startNo pulseNo slopebetween 40 - 60 ampsSet your wires on a copper backing block of sufficient size not to melt.  Ground the machine to the copper block.Argon gas at 20 SCFH with a 20 second post purgeSince you have a foot pedal, roll on the power until the wires fuse, then roll off quickly.  Not too quickly, or you'll get crater cracking (yes, even on stainless)  Hope that helpsI r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Also, machines with a foot control generally have a switch to set for "current control at remote". This engages the connector on the machine to permit the foot pedal to operate which is advantageous for TIG. The foot pedal will then control from a small amount of current up to the maximum set on the current control. The other position of that switch will say something like "Current control at front panel".  That shuts off the foot pedal and all control is then on the current control on the front panel of the machine. This is for stick welding when the machine is so equipped.
Reply:Originally Posted by gnm109Also, machines with a foot control generally have a switch to set for "current control at remote". This engages the connector on the machine to permit the foot pedal to operate which is advantageous for TIG. The foot pedal will then control from a small amount of current up to the maximum set on the current control. The other position of that switch will say something like "Current control at front panel".  That shuts off the foot pedal and all control is then on the current control on the front panel of the machine. This is for stick welding when the machine is so equipped.
Reply:Originally Posted by Tailshaft56Remote select is acomplished via a jumper in the connector of the remote device for the TA.
Reply:Thanks for the help and the link to the manual.  I didn't have a hard copy of the manual.I will give it a try and see what I can do.T
Reply:I have a photo-copy, pdf file of the "Quick Start" which explains the setting for Alum and SS on the TA Pro-Wave 185T:But its 2+ x the limit for posting here -- I will E-Mail it to you--and post it if I can reduce the size
Reply:Here is a text version of the pdf file--   not as pretty as the original:Pro-Wave185T-txt.txt
Reply:The quick start guide is great.  With it and a couple of minutes of play time at the control panel you should have the setup mastered.  Actual tigging takes a little longer to get good at.  LOLDennisThermal Arc 185-TSWMillermatic Challenger 172VictorO/AAtlas Craftsman 12 by 24 LatheEsab PCM-875Wholesalem Tool Mill-Drill
Reply:I spent most of the day Wed. using the tig welder.Thanks for the help.I did oK the welds looked fair and they held.The welder was all out of adjustment and your suggestion worked for me.Thanks Again.