Downhill with a Vantage 300 need advice

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I've been practiceing with this machine and all has been great till I started running 3/16   70+ rods, on a 16" pipe in the 2:30 to 4:30 position my weld is concave, I have the amps on 135 and arc controll on 6.5 it runs good till I get to that spot.Also give me an idea were to run the amps for down hill, been running my6010 1/8 @95 amps6010 5/32 @ 105 to 11070+ 3/16 @ 135 ampsGive me some opinions please.
Reply:What rods are you running I know these may be a dumb answer but I know on the 7018 excaliber they say right on there not to run down hill. The Esab rep told me the same thing with there 7018s that they were an uphill rod.Vantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:Originally Posted by GmmandanWhat rods are you running I know these may be a dumb answer but I know on the 7018 excaliber they say right on there not to run down hill. The Esab rep told me the same thing with there 7018s that they were an uphill rod.
Reply:What exactly are you referring to with 70+? Stick to vertical up with the 7018 rod. If you have 7010 or 7024, you can weld down hand (according to the Esab catalog).IAMAW Local 330Airco 300 AC/DC HeliwelderAirco Dip-Pak 200 with Profax spool gunPowr-Kraft AC225Everlast PowerArc 200stBuffalo Forge No.21 drill pressSpeedglas 9100xxAirco, Oxweld, Purox, Victor torchesLincoln Ranger 8
Reply:70+... havent heard that too often, most guys call it 8010 to avoid confusion...As far as your dissatisfaction with the weld, I wonder if your rod angle is too blame..Maybe the pool is starting to run out a little on you...Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:Try adjusting your dig to stiffen up the puddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by MadMax3170+... havent heard that too often, most guys call it 8010 to avoid confusion...As far as your dissatisfaction with the weld, I wonder if your rod angle is too blame..Maybe the pool is starting to run out a little on you...
Reply:I am no Pipeliner, but I have noticed that 7010 and 8010 do not stack like 5P. I run either my SA-200 or my SA-250 when welding pipe and I don't like either rod. Try setting the angry knob to soft and see if you can butter it in there. I can usually dial the old girls in to run it nice nice, but not as good as a stick of 6010.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI am no Pipeliner, but I have noticed that 7010 and 8010 do not stack like 5P. I run either my SA-200 or my SA-250 when welding pipe and I don't like either rod. Try setting the angry knob to soft and see if you can butter it in there. I can usually dial the old girls in to run it nice nice, but not as good as a stick of 6010.
Reply:Originally Posted by mulinaxrodburnerNot trying to be a smart azz, but my post tells the rods i'm useing.A 70+ rod is also known for a 8010 it is used for hot pass, fill, and cap on downhill pipe!A 6010 5p rod is used for root passes ( vertical up or vertical down hill ), and you can hot pass and fill with it, I don't like to but you can.
Reply:Originally Posted by GmmandanI ment the brand name of the rod you were using and a 8010 is not a 70+ rod. 7018 says right on the site Every position except vertical down.  http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...incolnElectric)
Reply:Originally Posted by GmmandanI ment the brand name of the rod you were using and a 8010 is not a 70+ rod. 7018 says right on the site Every position except vertical down.  http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...incolnElectric)
Reply:For the Haters:Shield-Arc® 70+AWS: E8010-GTop Features    * Light slag for minimal arc interference    * Deep penetration    * Clean, visible weld puddle    * Superior puddle controlTypical Applications    * Relatively high silicon pipe    * API 5L X56 through X70 grade pipe    * Cross country and in-plant pipeWelding PositionsAllLincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:my experience with  pipeliners is the 6010 is 5p and 1/8 gets run  at 110-120 amps...on a lincoln....
Reply:Originally Posted by GmmandanWhat rods are you running I know these may be a dumb answer but I know on the 7018 excaliber they say right on there not to run down hill. The Esab rep told me the same thing with there 7018s that they were an uphill rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald Branscom"Vantage" welding machine? Never heard of that one. Can you post a pic for forum members?
Reply:Mulinaxrodburner,Are you running a stripper bead  from 2 to 4 o'clock before you cap the weld? Originally Posted by mulinaxrodburnerI don't have any problem with the 5P, but that dang 8010 is a B%$#H if you run the amps about 135 and arc force on +7 it stacks a little better, but you have to be careful from sticking it, run the amps up to 155 to 165 and arc force on about +4 the rod runs great, but it's concave as H%$L!! I have been welding for 20yrs and this rod with this new machine has me stumped!!
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doMulinaxrodburner,Are you running a stripper bead  from 2 to 4 o'clock before you cap the weld?
Reply:Pictures are always a welcome addition.  Sorry, I missed your mention of welding on 16" pipe in your original post.  I got lost in all the debate about uphill E7018 rod...Welding on pipe that's 3/8" thick, I see your point, you should be able to get there without a stripper bead, at least with E6010.  In my mind a concave bead means too much heat, or too wide an arc, or some of both contributing to too large a puddle.  It seems to me, for your 3/16 rod, you're already at the low end of the heat range.  So how long an arc length are you trying to hold?  Have you tried shortening your arc length?A shorter arc might give you more troubles with sticking the rod, at the settings you're using.  It's a long shot, but have you tried uping the amperage and shortening the arc length?  Maybe some combination of the two will get you to a place where the heat/puddle is smaller and less dished out?Sorry this isn't more specific, but it's tough to troubleshoot this stuff using a keyboard and mouse... Originally Posted by mulinaxrodburnerOn 16" pipe the wall is about 3/8 thick, I have a nicle landing and a penny gap, root pass with a 5/32 6010, then my hot pass and cap with a 3/16  8010.I have tried my rod angle, amps up and down, arc controll up and down, I have got it were it's not as bad, but it's still at the point if I test they will send me to the house.I will try to get a picture and post it so you can see.
Reply:Sounds like a bad idea but, higher amps and a shorter arc and quick travel speeds makes wonders.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadit is a high end lincoln....
Reply:I found capping with that rod is to run a bit longer arc coming down and fast tight circles to the 5 oclock pos.. then turn down the heat and go slower but not slow enough to dig a gaping hole in your bottoms.
Reply:sounds like you are to cold. I run 5/32 at around 155-160 down and 3/16 around180. what I find happening in the area you are having trouble with a to cold mach. is you have to sort of long arc in that area to keep it running creating a "arc cutting effect"  (like using the rod to cut instead of weld. ) gives it a cocave weld with little fill. like some of the other guys said more heat and faster on the top and watch you're rod angle across the bottom. some of these other posts about not being able to run certain brands of 7018 down is just lac of experiance. over 45yrs. of welding I've run excaliber, linc., murex and a host of other 7018's . downhand uphand or anyway you want to point it. it's all in learning to handle your puddle,rod angle and heat to suit you're comfort zone.  sometimes in the posi. you are having the problem you may have to "butter" up the area.   revpol