Fighting a Stick issue

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Hey guys,I am running into a wierd issue that I have not experienced before and am wondering if it is related to my inverter welder.  In the past I've stick welded with an old Lincoln DC pipeline welder that my neighbor lets me borrow.  Since buying my TIG machine (inverter based) I now no longer have to borrow his. My issues is that when I first strike an arc using ESAB 14 inch 6013 1/8 rods at 120 amps the rods seam to blast through the metal and act as if the amperage is too high.  However, as soon as the rod gets to be about half gone the arc and deposition settles down and welds properly.  I doesn't matter whether I am using 1/8 or 3/32 rods they all weld the same.  What concerns me is that my welder is set for 120 amps (I've even dropped it down to 75 and it acts the same) however the voltage reading shows 69.4 volts.  The ESAB recommendations on the electrode tube states that the volts should be around 20 to 30.  I don't know how to adjust the voltage so I'm not sure if that is related.  Has anyone run into this before on inverter units.Michael
Reply:hmmm no not me...we have a dedicated stick machine and a dedicated tig...i know with the tig you can "mix and match" but i'll have none of that  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by 383bigblockMy issues is that when I first strike an arc using ESAB 14 inch 6013 1/8 rods at 120 amps the rods seam to blast through the metal and act as if the amperage is too high.  However, as soon as the rod gets to be about half gone the arc and deposition settles down and welds properly.. . . however the voltage reading shows 69.4 volts.  The ESAB recommendations on the electrode tube states that the volts should be around 20 to 30.
Reply:The machine has 4 modes that you can run in and I have it in "Stick" mode.  There are no other adjustments that I can find other than amperage.  I am running it DCEN Straight polarity and the voltage is showing on a digital display even when welding.  I think I am going to email the manufacturer and see if the voltage setting is adjustable though it is not documented in the book.   The shorter the electrode goes the better it welds.  I've never had this problem with the Lincoln.  I think I am going to play with the unit and see if the foot control will work in stick mode.  That way I can drop the amperage at first and then put the pedal to the metal once the electrode shortens.  I got the same results today as yesterday....its just weird.Michael
Reply:Try DCEP with SMAW.The electrode heats up more with EP.And the electrode is cooler and penetration is higher with EN.The weld speed is higher as the work and electrode heat up.  Higher weld speed can mean less burn through.  Maybe using electrode negative, heating the electrode is taking about half an electrode.I am out of my depth with any more details than my limited experience.But try DCEP. - Jim
Reply:Some machines have a "hot start" option.  Does yours?  This shouldn't last half the electrode, but it's all I can think of right now.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I have a similar prob with 1/8 7018's and my Miller Maxstar 150.  Very strange.  You can strike an arc no problem at all and if you continue the bead and use the entire rod youre laughing....BUT if you stop the weld, to reposition or whatever and then try to strike another arc with the same, half-used electrode....stick stick stick stick.....VERY difficult and sometimes impossible to use the rest of it!  Strange.I've tried breaking the flux away from the end, and i've tried leaving it on...Never seen that one before....
Reply:I have no problem striking an arc, pulling off the weld and re-striking with no issues.  The issue is that the Arc looks like a blast furnace for the first 3 to 5 inches and then settles down to where you can see the deposition and a puddle.  I think I am going to cut a few rods in half just to see if the length is the issue.  I've 3 more brackets to weld up this weekend so there is plenty of time to experiement.
Reply:Originally Posted by 383bigblockI have no problem striking an arc, pulling off the weld and re-striking with no issues.  The issue is that the Arc looks like a blast furnace for the first 3 to 5 inches and then settles down to where you can see the deposition and a puddle.  I think I am going to cut a few rods in half just to see if the length is the issue.  I've 3 more brackets to weld up this weekend so there is plenty of time to experiement.
Reply:If you have a foot pedal, you can use that for stick welding.  If you have high frequency start, the arc is really easy to start.  You can also start hot and get good penetration at the very begining and then back off on the pedal a little if you need to.  It can give you total control of what you are doing.
Reply:I think I am going to try it with the pedal and see if I can control it better.  I may also try DCEP since it is such an easy switch out.  I sent the OEM an email with a few questions.  Since the welder is marketed more for its TIG capabilities there is no information on setups for Stick welding in the documentation.  I'm not an expert but I've probably laid down several hundred pounds of stick welds in my past and I've never seen this.  I am still concerned that the unit is always showing 69.4 volts when the ESAB sticks require 20 to 30 volts.  I will post what I find out from the manufacturer.