Aluminum Grades

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Hi Im new to the forum, but have been reading posts for quite some time.  I was trying to look up or try to find if it was possible to tell which grade of aluminum something is made out of.  Is there some type of test you can do or are  you pretty much just guessing.  If I have a sheet of aluminum in my shop or someone gives me a sheet of aluminum is there anyway to find out what grade it is?
Reply:Hello solitudes, there is no "easy" way or should I say inexpensive way to tell which particular grade you have if it isn't readily marked on it to begin with. You will have different "T" grades to indicate hardened or annealed materials as well as the other numeric designations to indicate the particular alloy. I believe there are special electronic devices that can tell, yet they are cost prohobitive for the average person. You can also have a testing lab identify it for you, here again, it is likely cost prohibitive in most cases. My $.02. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:The large metal recycler near me scraps a lot of aluminum alloy from the aviation industry.  As such they can receive a lot of different exotic alloys that are worth separating as they either can be sold as small quantity or recycled for more money.  They use a hand held laser scanner of sorts that will give them alloy on the spot.  Check around your area and see if any are available, and what they might charge for testing your metal.  Another 2 cents worth.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Most sheet ally is a 5000 series they are a magnesium alloy ,5005 and 5251 in your thinner stuff and 5083 over 3mm. 6mm up to 40mm is almost exclusively 5083You do get a bit of 1200 in your very fine gauge, that's a close to pure alloy.You say "In your shop", ring your supplier???5000 series weld fine with 5356 filler or wire.BrettA good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Most sheet ally is a 5000 series they are a magnesium alloy ,5005 and 5251 in your thinner stuff and 5083 over 3mm. 6mm up to 40mm is almost exclusively 5083You do get a bit of 1200 in your very fine gauge, that's a close to pure alloy.
Reply:Originally Posted by bassboy1In my area, 'most' (I use that term very loosely), is 3003 or 6061 T6, with more of the latter.  By 'most' I speak of that in regards to what I see most in the scrapyards, and other places that have pre owned, but unused aluminum sheets.Now, in my shop, most (without quotations) would be 5052.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrettInteresting.The difference may be that I'm in Australia and this is what our suppliers primarily offer??
Reply:I believe the device used to identify specific metal grades is called an X-Ray Fluorescence spectrometer.... I think the cost of one starts at about 50,000 dollars! They are used mostly by scrap yards and companys that test for lead in residential properties. Im still hoping to get one for christmas, but keep getting let down every year... I need to find a rich sugar mamma!Lincoln ac/dc 225/125Millermatic 211 w/ Spoolmatic 100Miller 330 a/bpDynasty 200 dx
Reply:Not to highjack...but I'm currently working an aluminum sheet job and currently using 3003 but 5052 is also available. Correct me if wrong. 3003 is more work friendly than 5052, forming and braking wise.?. Past experience I dealt with two grades of sheet, aluminum and what was referred to as aircraft aluminum. The aircraft grade would crack along broken edge.Miller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:Great info guys thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by waginNot to highjack...but I'm currently working an aluminum sheet job and currently using 3003 but 5052 is also available. Correct me if wrong. 3003 is more work friendly than 5052, forming and braking wise.?. Past experience I dealt with two grades of sheet, aluminum and what was referred to as aircraft aluminum. The aircraft grade would crack along broken edge.
Reply:I have a better idea.If you knew WHERE it came from that is the best clue.It can tell you what kind of work the place did and what metals were likely to have been used.Just use that aluminum for whatever you want. Just do not use it on any aircraft without knowing what it was intended for. LOLYou did not say what the thickness of the metal was.Where I live in the SF Bay Area many scrap yards have a lot of 6061.If you bend a piece of that metal at a 90º angle and it cracks it probably is 6061.If it is 5052 it is weldable and bends easier without cracking.If it is really thin and has a polished look it could be 2024. Could be alclad. another subject.Look for markings on the metal If there are numbers or any info on the sheet of metal.If you are making a bracket for something you can go extra thick because the material is so light weight. So if you were going to make a steel bracket  1/4 inch thickness you could use 3/8 aluminum instead. And 5052,6061 or 2024 will ALL work.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by waginNot to highjack...but I'm currently working an aluminum sheet job and currently using 3003 but 5052 is also available. Correct me if wrong. 3003 is more work friendly than 5052, forming and braking wise.?. Past experience I dealt with two grades of sheet, aluminum and what was referred to as aircraft aluminum. The aircraft grade would crack along broken edge.
Reply:Original question was due to me being in the coast guard.  We generally use 5086 for smaller boats in salt water.  I transfer every few years and usually walk in to a shop full of aluminum that is no longer marked.  If I am to follow a drawing that specifically calls for certain grade of aluminum then I can't use left overs in the shop.  I have to order a new piece since I don't have any idea what left over grades are.
Reply:Original question was due to me being in the coast guard. We generally use 5086 for smaller boats in salt water. I transfer every few years and usually walk in to a shop full of aluminum that is no longer marked. If I am to follow a drawing that specifically calls for certain grade of aluminum then I can't use left overs in the shop. I have to order a new piece since I don't have any idea what left over grades are.
Reply:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What he said X2!!I even went so far as to make a couple of pin holders for the material rack.  One for a "silver" sharpy for marking black metal (ferrous alloys) and a black one for marking aluminum and stainless.  Mounted them on the rack so the old "I didn't have anything to write with" excuse is mute.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Yes my shop stays pretty well organized with everything marked, but when you transfer somewhere after only a couple years you have to redo everything and mark all the scraps up again.  When I get to a new shop I like to know what grades of metal I have so that I can plan accordingly.  I guess I was just hoping for an easy way to determine grades.
Reply:Originally Posted by solitudesYes my shop stays pretty well organized with everything marked, but when you transfer somewhere after only a couple years you have to redo everything and mark all the scraps up again.  When I get to a new shop I like to know what grades of metal I have so that I can plan accordingly.  I guess I was just hoping for an easy way to determine grades.
Reply:If you can cut a strip of the material say 1" wide, by 6" long, and put it in a vise and bend it. If it is very stiff, and shows cracking, or snaps, it's likely 6061, or higher grade. If it is soft, and bends like a dream, it is 1000, 2000,3000 series. If it bends, argues about the bend, but does not crack, it is 5000 series.That's about the best I can tell you.
Reply:Try this website Scope metal supply. They have a lot of info and some sort of a calculator for metal measuring.
Reply:I try to only work with 6061, anything else unless it is a huge chunk will get tossed out. I can not stand having welds or parts ruined by junk aluminum. Nothing like spending 3 days on a part only to add on that last little piece which turns out to be some left over ebay import aluminum ruining the parent part.Only time I use another grade is if the product calls specifically for it.