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The hardest thing for me to weld is the outside corner using thin stainless. I'm trying to add filler and create a nice bead with color. I can fuse the outside corners really easily, but I feeling its almost cheating to just fuse them. Could you guys post your tips and tricks to welding outside corners on fairly thin stainless.My main issues at this point is dipping the filler rod. since its an outside corner I dont have any really to rest the filler rod on and this gives me trouble. I do ok with a short piece of filler, but the longer the rod is, the more of a bouce I start to get at the end of the rod and then I'm screwed.My next biggest trouble is getting decent gas coverage on the outside corner? I guess a gas lens would be the ticket here with the flow cranked up. How high should I have it set at? 20+ CFH?Heres my filler rod holder:Last edited by JustinOlson; 09-09-2006 at 07:48 PM.
Reply:You can actually run a gas lens with less flow since the flow itself is smoother. As to rods, I tend to cut mine in half when doing fine work and I put a small bend in the end for two reasons. The first is that it helps keep you from grabbing the hot end when your concentration is fixated, and the second is that having the end hanging helps eliminate bounce in your rod. If I'm using a full length of rod I'll some times bend it in the middle (about 45degrees) since it seems to reduce the bouncing that happens when you're dipping rod.As to the corners, it's not a problem to weld each bead up to the corner and on the final bead fuse the corner.Kalroy"It's all about the OODA Loop."
Reply:I'd definitely go with the gas lens. I'd also use small tungsten 1/16" and it helps some smaller machines to run the hi-freq on continuous instead of start. Try using .045 MIG wire for filler; cuz if you're running low amps and you see the filler balling up, then drop off it really messes up the whole fluid-flowing-fusing dynamic of the rhythm your runnin. Not to go techno on ya but, there's a "thing" called thermionic work function that is going on in the background and low heat, big rod, little experience just makes that even worse.Good luck!Weldtek
Reply:Just fuse it! Why complicate things when there really isn't much of a reason for it? Stainless fuses great. I know I wouldn't bother with filler on a weld like that.
Reply:I'm just looking for the challenge of trying this. I'll try the smaller tungsten and really tiny filler rod.BTW, heres a overall pic I forgot to post:
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe HJust fuse it! Why complicate things when there really isn't much of a reason for it? Stainless fuses great. I know I wouldn't bother with filler on a weld like that.
Reply:First off, I'm not trying to complicate things. There just happens to be a science for every aspect of what's going on.Secondly, even when fusing, it's a good idea to have a piece of filler handy. Sometimes the puddle key holes or runs from the heat instead of to it; which results in a hole and if your reaction time is too slow, now you have a big hole.And the name for that puddle reaction is called capillary action.Weldtek
Reply:Sometimes, doing things the easy way is doing it the right way. I'd fuse it, or maybe add just a little filler. I rarely ever use smaller than 1/16" wire. I NEVER use tungsten smaller than 3/32", and I have welded down to .006" material with it. Smaller tungsten doesn't take the heat as well and keep a sharp tip as well.When dabbing wire, you want it to NOT change the width of your puddle. I can see that you're letting the puddle width change quite a bit between dabs. Add a little more heat, or less wire, also.
Reply:Originally Posted by EngloidI rarely ever use smaller than 1/16" wire. I NEVER use tungsten smaller than 3/32", and I have welded down to .006" material with it. Smaller tungsten doesn't take the heat as well and keep a sharp tip as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by elderthewelderWOW!! How much heat do you need for .006"?, are you sure you don't mean .060"? even with .063" materials (Ferrous) I will use a 1/16" tungsten and possibly some .045" filler. You can tig circles around me if you are welding .006 with that set up! BTW I looked at your web site, there is some impressive work their, but I still don't see how you are tig welding .006 with 1/16th filler and a 3/32 tungsten
Reply:I once observed a top sheetmetal welder weld some thin material probaby about 60 thou.His solution to filler wire problems? easy! He cut a sliver ( read really small strip,from the same sheet metal type as he was welding.Bingo , he solves a couple of problems described above as well as colour match.I do seem to remember him stick ( tacking ?) the metal with a tiny charcaol appearence rod which was probably and old carbon arc gouging rod ground down.He made like a tiny tack (say < than 1/16" and flicked away .These were about 3/8" apart.as Aussies sayNo worries amte!GrahameLast edited by Grahame; 09-11-2006 at 05:10 AM.
Reply:.060" isn't thin material in my book. Actually .060 is easy, I would use regular old 1/16 filler.
Reply:Originally Posted by EngloidNope, it was .006". I didn't use 1/16" filler, but used 3/32" tungsten. You only use the tip of tungsten anyway. I welded it with 4amps, pulsed to lower the heat input.
Reply:Originally Posted by elderthewelderwell I am definitely not up to par on my pulsed welding, all of our tig machines have the pulser, but neither me or my coworker ever use it, I have messed around with it years ago,(with bad results) I guess I could not figure out the settings and gave up. I really need to get up to speed with it and get more practice with it, I know there are situations where it could of helped me out, but did not use it because I am so unfamiliar with it I did not want to screw up the high $$$ part I was welding. Maybe one of these day's I will sit down with a book at the bench and figure it out
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe H.060" isn't thin material in my book. Actually .060 is easy, I would use regular old 1/16 filler.
Reply:We used to weld soda cans and stainless steel foil to see who would buy lunch back in the day. 0.020" filler and 0.040" tungsten. A butt weld on foil is, ummmm, interesting. I can't bring myself to fuse stainless since in my industry that's an automatic failure. No walking the cup, no fusing, and no cheating. Well, okay, there is some cheating, but not on any of the actual aircraft stuff, just on locally manufactured stuff and ground equipment.Kalroy"It's all about the OODA Loop."
Reply:Originally Posted by KalroyI can't bring myself to fuse stainless since in my industry that's an automatic failure. No walking the cup, no fusing, and no cheating. Well, okay, there is some cheating, but not on any of the actual aircraft stuff, just on locally manufactured stuff and ground equipment.
Reply:Originally Posted by EngloidTry the food service industry...where most everything is fused stainless. There's no logic behind any idea that walking the cup is a bad thing. I don't know why some places are still stuck in the 40's.
Reply:Originally Posted by KalroyDunno why. I do recall rig welders called in to get us back on schedule at the rocket lab once. They all walked the cup, it looked great, and they all failed x-ray.
Reply:When I have to weld a outside corner I use a filler close to the same thickness of the metal, I lay the filler flat in the corner get the puddle started and walk the cup. Attached are photos of a test form last week, 3"SS sch10 316 seamless, fused the root, filler and cap in one pass walking the cup. X-ray and hydro at 3250psi, then they cut out the joint for a visual. This was done with a 302G at about 75amps with gas flow about 19. Attached Images
Reply:Finney..Looks pretty good.. but why'd you ring file it?
Reply:The inspector did, said he was looking for cold lap. The inspectors we are getting today are a joke. We just finished a pipe job that was all downhill, X-60 pipe I think. Well I am a desk jocky most of the time now but still sneak out and make a blue light when I can. The firstt day on this pipe job the inspector calls and told me he shut the job down because our welders were not following procedure. I slam the phone down and jump in the truck and burn it out to the job. All the while I am think some of the guys were running 7018 uphill passes so they did not have to make as many passes downhill with 8010. Pipe is .75 wall 18" (yes I have done this in the past) Anyway get to the job ask the guys what is going on and they tell me the inspector told them nobody can weld pipe down hill and shut the job down. I call the customer and explain what is going on. In about 5 minuntes I am knee deep in white trucks and I am told to get the rods burning ASAP. They finally found the inspector and read him the riot act, it seems he is fresh out of inspector school. (I never heard of a inspector school) Anyway the inspecting company will have to pay for 19 welders ,fitters sitting on their butts for 3-4 hours which will be around 10 grand.
Reply:Originally Posted by FinneyThe inspector did, said he was looking for cold lap. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:15:00