Recommended OA welding books?

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Hey Ya'll,  I purchased a Harris medium duty torch back in June, I've since tried my hand at using it to weld but I just can't get the hang of it. I thought my tip was too large because I was having a lot of trouble controlling the heat, so I bought an asortment of tips a 0, 1, 3  and a 5. I tried to start out on some 16 gauge square steel tube with a #3 tip and 70S2 2/32 rod, well, when I get the tube to start melting and start dipping the rod the filler just puddles out flat. I tried different tips and ended up not being able to heat the tube quick enoufg or too fast. When done I tried pulling the tube apart and beating on it with a hammer and the welds did hold, but damn it probably was the worst welds I've ever seen. Compairing apples to oranges, I have a Lincoln 225 stick welder and a 100HD Lincoln flux cored wire welder, I'm no welding expert by any means but welds from either of those look really good.  I've only bought 1 book "Welders Handbook" by Richard Finch, and have read the whole thing 3 times, but I just can't seem to get the hang of it. Can anyone recommend a good step by step book for beginners on OA welding?
Reply:Try practicing on sheet first.  16 gauge, with the 0 tip.  Take your time and be patient.  It's a lot closer to TIG welding than any other kind of welding, except that you're creating your puddle with the torch tip.  Make sure you have a neutral flame and when actually welding try to keep your filler rod (I'd recommend 1/16") inside the outer envelope of the flame.  Be patient while you form your puddle, add a bit of rod and move your flame (walk your puddle) half a bead forward and add another bit of rod, shampoo, rinse, repeat.When you get really good, it can look just as good a TIG weld, though that art seems to be pretty lost anymore.Kalroy"It's all about the OODA Loop."
Reply:I have several books.  I have the Finch book and a couple of old books one by Linde company and the other by Alcoa.  I used to visit used/rare book store.  However, I don't know if more books is the answer.  Sounds like you got a good start. You have a puddle and know where the filler goes.  Seems like a heat control issue.As stated most important is a neutral flame, regardless of tip size.  A acetylene (Reducing or carburizing flame)rich flame will have difficulty getting base metal hot and be dirty.  Oxygen (Oxidizing) high flame will heat rapidly but give a very dull gritty grainy looking weld.    Are you sure you are finding the Neutral flame?You can control the bead width by pulling the torch back slightly. The tip of the inner cone is the hottest.  Maximum heating occurs when the inner cone touches the metal, if you're torch too close to the metal then you will see a dark (cool) spot. No need to have the torch too close, control the heat by pulling the torch back or moving the inner cone to the metal.  What type joints are doing?  Try running beads without filler.  Add filler to the puddle edge, don't stab it through the puddle.
Reply:My reading comprehension sux at this late hour=) - i know you said books but this site has good video demos of the process!also visit www.tinmantech.com
Reply:edited Originally Posted by LaserjockMy reading comprehension sux at this late hour=) - i know you said books but this site has good video demos of the process!http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/also visit www.tinmantech.com
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI have several books.  I have the Finch book
Reply:Oxy acetylene welding pressures for welding are much lower than those used for oxy acetylene cutting.From memory, I think it was around 5 to 7 PSI.Also keep an eye on the nozzle orifice as it can pick up oxided material from the weld.The lump of oxide and/ or incorrect pressure,can cause a problem for welding. Also beware of improper use of the cleaner wire. Many of my apprentices used the cleaning wires as  a file and elongated the circular nozzle orifice.That made the nozzle about as useful as as a fly screen door in a submarine.I found that on many occassions I was able to wipe my (gloved) finger across the orifice and loosen the impurity. I do not know if they are available in your neck of the woods ,but what I clean welding nozzle with an impurity in the orfice, are cleaning drills.They come in a numbered set and are  operated just by turning them with your fingers.I used a Harris torch many years ago and found it it to be a rugged well made product. I seem to remember something about it requiring a lower opearating pressure than our local product at the time.Perhaps Harris or one of the other OXywelding torch comany produce a book or brochure.have you done a google search for them?Hope this helpsGrahame
Reply:here a web linkhttp://prl.stanford.edu/documents/pd...0oxy%20weld%22Its written for acrobat so you will need to have the PDF reader.Grahame
Reply:Thanks for the information. I have not tried again now for about a month, but with the weather cooling off some I'll put some more time into it soon.
Reply:screw books... get the basics down and get out there and play...experience is the best teacher by far...i did'nt read no stinking books...  and besides... thats what this forum is here for.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:[QUOTE=zapster]i did'nt read no stinking books QUOTE] Yep!ZAP.Hey man,I once thought like that! Like you I had experiences of learning the hard way.One of the most expensive was to weld up a replacement rear quarter section on a ute ( Yanks, read pickup ).I chose to weld the panel joint with a high tensile welding filler wire with the oxy acetylene torch. Hell! I was a welder and KNEW what I was doing. What I did not KNOW that high tensile filler wire  has a way higher rate of contraction, than does  aotomotive panel steel. End result., much distortion.a lots of work and money to fix.What rescued me was reading a book by an Aussie panel beating teacher. As an aside, the new vehicles are made from a  high strength lower weight steel virtually unweldable without a jig and spotwelder /wire feed machine. That came from a book.My point being, dear welding collegue is that we can't know it all, to begin with and a good balance of theory and practical knowledge enables one to adapt someones elses knowledge to our own situations. Everyone whether they know it or not  has a little something to offer if they have written a book or not.I am amazed at the odd bits and pieces of knowledge and techniques that I have gleaned from welding students over the years.Some I could use others I could not.True, his forum is very helpful but not a sole font of welding knowlege. Learning comes to us in many , many forms,why limit oneself to just the one?Meant as an observation not a criticism.respectfullyGrahame