tried tigin ss

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played with tig on steel and decided to move on to stainless.this was the first on SSthe verticle is 1/4" and the flat is 3/8" all 316one side is 2 beads wide.and yes the 1c is covering a lack of fusion in one pic.the pics are a phone pic and a bit fuzzy, but i'm hoping to ger feedback about the color. Is this the correct color?is the darker blue areas where it was getting to hot?thanks for any feedback3/32" red no 6 cup @20 cfps, 116A no remote (lift arc), 1/16" 316 filler.G Attached ImagesG
Reply:Not experienced enough at SS TIG to comment on the color but from what I can see those are very nice welds.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:thanks, i was very happy with them also. just trying to look for improvementsG
Reply:never tried anything that thick, but on the thiner stuff I have tried, I endup burnin it up, that shiny bead looks nice, but don't have the knowlege in ss to critique, I say it's good though, it does look to hot at the end on the one
Reply:if my eyes aren't crossed again, it looks like the 2 and 3 pictures show the bead laying more on the horizontal piece than on both equaaly??  this usually happens on first trials,so no BAD BOY YOU here,,, i think you need to turn the torch even mor into the 45 degree ,,,,,,  have you tried breaking it to see where the weld is?? or not??   got to say though,, your beads look much more pretty than mine ever does!!
Reply:Gordon,The blue (and straw, purple, and other 'rainbow' colors) are formed when the hot metal interacts with the air.  It means that the shielding gas wasn't there long enough to fully protect the hot metal from the air.Pretty consistent bead though.Don't put your starts/stops on the corners, wrap around the corners somewhat.Double-dip the 'end' dip/puddle and move back over where the weld already is (slightly) to get rid of the end crater/dimple/nib.Oh, and keep the end of the filler IN the cloud of shielding gas coming out of the torch tip.And what did you do to that poor 316 to get it all pocked up with those rust stains/spots?    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:It was lying around while i was grinding steel. outside.I ground where i was going to weld.so would it need more gas or less heat?G
Reply:You use enough heat to melt the metal and get your desired/needed weld puddle.You use enough shielding gas to protect the molten and/or hot metal from the air.In GTAW welding, the inert gas protects the hot tungsten electrode from the air, and it also protects the molten and hot metal of the weld and the part from the air as well.Some things/applications are sooooo sensitive to the metal getting exposed to the air that they are done in a "glove box", which is a box (with gloves you can reach into the box with) that the part(s) go into and then the entire box is emptied of air and filled with the inert gas.  Titanium is like that.  Critical stainless steel parts may be done that way, as those rainbow colors sometimes mean that the metallurgical properties of the stainless steel are not quite what they should be (strength, corrosion resistance, etc).  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:moonrise:i understand that, but say i had enough gas, but the heat was 2 high then the shielding gas/cup travelled past the hot weld before it had cooled and so the air got to it.orthe heat was normal, but their wasnt enough gas. either 2 small a cup or to little CFH's. then the air would get to the uncooled metal also.from the pics can you tell which senario i had?G