|
|
i have heard that it is bad to let rods set out because of the moisture they absorb. what happens when they get moisture. i have some rods that have sat in a 5 gallon bucket for about a year. some of them seem lit they wont arc but just stick to the base metal. is this because of moisture? btw they are some lincoln 7018 hr4 and 6010s. running them with a thunderbolt. thanks a lot
Reply:7018's are a low hydrogen welding rod and they suck in moisture in like a magnet. In-fact if i ever have to do any welding that will be tested I only take 2 out of the oven at a time. as far as a 6010(jack-of-all-trades-rod) they don't need to be in an oven as much as the 7018.If any of those rods have any dark spots on them they are as good as garbage!Mind you this is my opinion.
Reply:If you are not welding to code and the insulation has not flaked off then you can use them. The 6010 rods actually will not run as well if they are dried out in an oven. In the case of 7018 you lose the low hydrogen characteristics of the welding rod. This is of no concern if you are welding mild steel in thicknesses under half an inch.
Reply:thanks a lot for the help. just was curious. do any of you guys have an over or have any tips for making one
Reply:Old Christmas tree stand base, microwave oven power cord and internal wires, ceramic light bulb socket, three large metal coffee cans, 3" fiberglass insulation, 2" galv. pipe, 1/4 in all-thread, 2" washer, one garage door cable pulley. Cut 2" hole in inverted tree base, weld on pipe, cut out hole for power plug, weld threaded stud inside base to hold metal standoff on ceramic socket so 40 watt appliance bulb will be inside pipe. Remove bottom from two cans and weld together at top and bottom rims. Cut 2" hole in center of remaining can bottom. Wrap 2" pipe in insulation and slide cans down over insulation until pipe goes through 2" hole in can bottom. Run all-thread thru pulley hole and weld so rod sticks up high enough to mount a handle and hangs low enough to miss top of light bulb. Trap 2" washer, which fits in bore of pipe and supports rods, on the all-thread between two nuts. Hub of pulley has small hole drilled through which a meat thermometer passes. Runs about 170-180 degrees with 40 watt bulb. Attached ImagesOven2.pdf (92.2 KB, 72 views)Oven1.pdf (52.7 KB, 46 views)TeddCoHTP Microcut 400 & Invertig 160DC Smith Dual Guard MD-510 OA Rig Lincoln SP135+ Hobart Stickmate LX 235/160
Reply:Steve28 refered to 6010 electrodes as a Jack of all trades electrodes.I address these comments to home users.I beg to to differ to Steve28 on these groundsThey are described by their manufacturers as a fast freeze electrode.The flux is made up largely of water bearing cellulose.It is this ingredient that makes them the fiercely burning electrode that so intimidates a lot of welders.The electrodes are used for keyhole/ root pass electrodesAlso the electrode is solely intended to operate on DC electrode positive.Its relative the 6011 can operate on AC and DCEP but does not deflux well and clean up as well as the 6010.To place them in an electrode oven, removes the very property that the rod function revolves around. In fact no 60 series electrode should be placed in an oven. Without checking your AWS codes ,I would estimate that around 1% range of moisture content is required to properly operate them. From what I glean from the posts on this forum many DIYs regard them in this way as a general electrode.Unless one is involved in pipework or the need for deep penetrating electrode and are not bothered by hydrogen induced failures they can't be considered a general home rod. Remember the 7018 s are a hydrogen controlled rods are formulated to minimise hygrogen gas build up.This is the reason for avoiding moisture take up by storing in the welding electrode oven. Hydrogen controlled electrodes for many home operators are not viable unless you have the machine suitable to run them from. By this I mean DC or at least a low volt tapping on an AC machine to start them easily.As a choice for home use electrodes to pick up and use I would go past 6012s or even 6013sFor the home welder blokes I hope this explains things better.Grahame
Reply:Keeping moisture out of rods is important - all the manufacturer's say so and each seems to have long articles on the subject. 7018, as a low hydrogen electrode, is one of most susceptible to absorbing moisture.*** I liked Teddco's oven. ***Once I have opened a box of electrodes, breaking the plastic wrap around the cardboard box or breaking open the plastic bag inside, I was routinely sealing up the box or hole in the bag with aluminum duct-work tape. That worked well but got to be a real pain, so now I transfer the rods to moisture resistant plastic boxes.Now I have used wet rods, usually soaked for 5 minutes in water, when I want to burn a hole (drill) through metal that is just too tough on my drills. e.g. If I have welded something with 7018AC and then want to drill a hole through it, I find the weld metal seems to eat my drills rapidly.I've not done a great deal of welding but from my limited experience with 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018AC, I would say:6011 - works on low current, got watch sticking the rod, the best feature of this rod is that what you see is what you get (weld metal not covered with thick slag)6013 - a drag rod that does not stick to work during welding, medium slag7014 - a drag rod that lays down a lot of slag over the weld - the weld looks too thick but when you beat the slag off, you are left with this surprisingly tiny bead of weld metal. I don't like this feature - can't figure out how much metal I am laying down.7018 - needs more current that 6011 or 6013, tend to stick on startup, got to keep a short arc (risk of sticking), medium slag.While more difficult to use, I prefer 7018AC because it produces a way stronger weld that the 60 series rods. I convinced myself of this by fillet welding 2 x 2 inch pieces of 1/4 inch thick steel and then pounding the welds apart in a heavy vice. The 7018AC rod makes a tough, tenacious weld - and that is what I want.Rick V |
|