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Ok I practiced some today...remember this is my first time...I welded some beads and then I also welded the peices of 16 guage aluminized pipe together, and took a couple pics of the inside of the pipe to show penitration...How do they look??? This is on an 85amp FCAW on Hi-heat and 2 on the wire speed...
Reply:you asked for it and i dont stutter..they suck.."aluminized pipe?" go to a machine shop and beg for some mild steel to play with..be nice and you shall recieve..see if they have some 3/32" scrap you can haveyou'll find that you will get way better results if you use the right material..lesson 1...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:So whats wrong with them...and what should I do to make them better? I need to learn to weld aluminized pipe...I need to weld up my exhaust...thanks!
Reply:it looks like your getting the "bump" then weld syndrome..does the wire keep bouncing off the material with no arc..then a short arc and back to no over and over?try lightly grinding off the aluminized coating 3/8" on each pipe you want to weld..get the materal cleaned of all the coating and you should see better results..sorry if i was so blunt..you should include what your intentions are..all i see is you "practicing" on aluminized pipe and naturally think the worst..get that crap off the weld area..turn up your speed 1 notch..then 2..then 3.. and see what happens (leave the heat alone).. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:ok...yeah that tubing had been sitting in my garage for probably a year...and I didnt clean it...so just lightly grind the pipe where I want to weld?OO yeah maybe I should of said this was my first welding experience...I turned it up to 4 and the wire would bounce off the pipe...3 gave me the same results as two but I guess that could be caused by the pipe not being clean. I also had a fan to my side on HI blowing the fumes away...is that ok?
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03ok...yeah that tubing had been sitting in my garage for probably a year...and I didnt clean it...so just lightly grind the pipe where I want to weld?OO yeah maybe I should of said this was my first welding experience...I turned it up to 4 and the wire would bounce off the pipe...3 gave me the same results as two but I guess that could be caused by the pipe not being clean. I also had a fan to my side on HI blowing the fumes away...is that ok?
Reply:yeah it has Hi and low...its on hi...wire speed on 2..should i try with wire speed on 3 and then inch it up from there?They seem to be strong welds tho...once I got the 2 tubes welded together...I took them out back and beat them on the ground...like holding one end and swinging it and it held...I did that probably 15-20 times...and I am a fairly large guy...AM I getting too much penitration? or does the penitration look good?thanks again zapster, I apriciate the help!
Reply:What size flux core?Is the wire clean, new, fresh?How far from the work is your tip when you pull the trigger?Is the spot where the wire hits to begin the arc clean, like very clean, like it's ground down to clean metal?***************************************Lincoln AC225 stick welderLincoln HD100 WeldPak flux core wire feed welderThree of the cheapest grinders money can buy
Reply:They seem to be strong welds tho...once I got the 2 tubes welded together...I took them out back and beat them on the ground...like holding one end and swinging it and it held...I did that probably 15-20 times...and I am a fairly large guy...
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03...and I am a fairly large guy...
Reply:I am 6'5" 280..so pretty close haha...So you guys just think its because the metal wasn't clean?
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03I am 6'5" 280..so pretty close haha...So you guys just think its because the metal wasn't clean?
Reply:BlackL03, try to be steady once you get the weld going. The fluxcore will help with the "Dirty metal" and that is a good thing. Try things like bracing your hands or arm so that you are solid in your welding movements. IMO, 280lb and 6'5" seems solid enough!!! But a steady hand is the best way. Try slower movement over the pipe as you weld it. It will deposit filler rod better as you go, and it will let the aluminizing burn clean out of the weld, which will give a better apperance on the weld. Good luck!!!
Reply:On these welds I tried the zig-zag motion but I was told to use the Pull, Stop, Pull method (half a second, then pull a tiny bit, stop for a half a second, then pull and so on)...which one should I use to join CLEAN (haha next time I will grind it clean first) 16 gauge aluminized steel exhaust tubing?Flux core size was .030 (as small as my machine will ahndle I guess) the wire is new maybe 3-4 months old, I am about 1/16-1/8 of an inch away...Sometimes i am touching the pipe when I start...Last edited by BlackL03; 12-11-2006 at 11:36 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloBlackL03, try to be steady once you get the weld going. The fluxcore will help with the "Dirty metal" and that is a good thing. Try things like bracing your hands or arm so that you are solid in your welding movements. IMO, 280lb and 6'5" seems solid enough!!! But a steady hand is the best way. Try slower movement over the pipe as you weld it. It will deposit filler rod better as you go, and it will let the aluminizing burn clean out of the weld, which will give a better apperance on the weld. Good luck!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterwell a fluxcore machine dont really "care" about clean..but it helps...the coating has got to go.....zap!
Reply:One of what I think is the big questions is the size of the wire. I think it was mentioned but maybe you missed it.From the outside it looks like the bead itself is cold but the pipe is sinking like maybe a lot of heat input to the area. Strange. On the inside I see sagging and blistering. Is the machine your using flux core only or are there polarity options??Something odd here. Like there is a ton of generalized heat but not enough heat in/at the bead.
Reply:its only Flux Core...the welder is a Campbell Hausfield here are the specs Dual heat setting. Variable wire speed control allows adjustment for smooth, even weld bead. Thermal overload protection, automatically shuts off to avoid overheating. Professional torch equipped with trigger activated arc for easy start. Includes: Welding shield, hammer/brush, flux core wire, and quick start guide. 115V. 20A input, 70A DC output. Duty cycle: 20% at 70A. Wire sizes: .030" and .035" on 4" or 8" spools. Welds from 18-gauge to 3/16" steel.Last edited by BlackL03; 12-11-2006 at 11:56 PM.
Reply:I have .030 size wire...thats what i used on these welds
Reply:Well the .030 flux core is the right choice for that small machine, and since it's a flux only you can't have the polarity reversed for sure.The beads just don't match what looks like some pretty big heat at times altho I didn't see any wire stubs sticking through. That's what might happen if you were way too high. I think someone already mentioned it but start low and work up. But if I had to guess you were maybe running a little cold but hanging in the area too long. Hot and fast, hot and fast. Then once you've got a good bead go for control. One other thing is the power sorce. These 120v machines are reall critical on the input side. You'll want to start with the best input you can. Not a receptacle with a bunch of lights and other things on it at the same time. If you know your home pick one that's fairly dedicated, and if you use and extension cord make it heavy. None of those fifty foot 18 guage jobs.
Reply:its plugged straight into an outlet with NOTHING else plugged in the receptical or the 2 closest recepticals to it...So I should do what...turn the heat on low and go slower? or keep the heat on Hi and go faster?
Reply:Those big splatter balls means you were going in there with some power for sure. Just looks like the settings weren't quite right some how. I guess you only have two voltage settings so for that .050-.060 wall stuff I'd start with the lower voltage setting and leave your speed about where it was and adjust. I think you'll end up in just over half in the wire speed. Hey, practice will do a heck of a lot more to clean up the beads than you'd think too. It's not gonna happen in a foot of bead.
Reply:I just wish i had a pick with a similar machine to look at a judge what to change...and to see what a good bead should look like...I have the welders handbook by Haynes and it shows a good bead but its with a Gas Mig...Thanks for the help Sandy...I will get up early tommarrow and practice for a couple hours and then post up somemore pics!Should I continue in the zig-zag method? or should I do the Pull,stop,pull (half a second, pull a little, half a second, pull a little and so one) method? This will be used on 16 guage exhaust tubing
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03I just wish i had a pick with a similar machine to look at a judge what to change...and to see what a good bead should look like...I have the welders handbook by Haynes and it shows a good bead but its with a Gas Mig...Thanks for the help Sandy...I will get up early tommarrow and practice for a couple hours and then post up somemore pics!Should I continue in the zig-zag method? or should I do the Pull,stop,pull (half a second, pull a little, half a second, pull a little and so one) method? This will be used on 16 guage exhaust tubing
Reply:Should I continue in the zig-zag method? or should I do the Pull,stop,pull (half a second, pull a little, half a second, pull a little and so one) method? This will be used on 16 guage exhaust tubingOK I will start tommarrow morning with the heat on Low and the wire speed the same...and inch the wire speed up...I doubt I can go up to 4 (half way) on the wire settings because when I was on the hi heat and on the 4 setting it would bouce and push the gun away...Thanks agian Sandy, Zap, and everyone else who has helped me out so far!
Reply:Well I decided to check the wire package agian...and guess what...It was .035 wire... Would that cuase the results seen?? thanks! I am going to get up early and go get some .030 wire and then practice...
Reply:It was .035 wire... Would that cuase the results seen?? thanks!
Reply:I'll throw in one more bit of opinion here and it's pointed generically at the 70 to 80 amp machines. Every wire type and size has it's sweet spot and it seems like for .035 flux core that sweet spot is just about where these smaller machines run out of poop. The .030 is better suited for anything they can work on.
Reply:Lots of good posts, my question is when you cleaned up the pipe down to bare metal (lose that coating completely!) did your problem resolve itself? Let's see a couple of bead pics with nothing else changed but the grinding down of the coating, and maybe a steady push rather than pull-stop-pull. I'm suspecting that's a big part of your problem.Last edited by Clanweld; 12-12-2006 at 10:45 AM.If you don't have the time to do it right, then you definitely don't have the time to do it over.
Reply:70A seems a little much for that thin of a pipe. Im no pro though, hell just starting myself really, any suggestions? What amps/volts is the machine on its Low and High? I'm assuming on high is where they got their 70A from. Anyways, keep at it,Chuck
Reply:I'd definatly get some flat to practice on, it'll probably be much easier to learn your settings and help you with your control. The more consistantly you move the better your weld will look. Also, try to watch your puddle. It's harder to watch with fluxcore rather than solid and gas because of the smoke. If you can watch your two pieces flow togather you can judge how fast you need to be moving.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:I changed the wire and cleaned the metal off and ground a little...took me awile to get it to stop shorting out...I found out that with low heat...the wire speed had to be on the lowest possible setting and you had to go slow...but they turned out better then before I think...I also switched to .030 wire...So do they look better...each weld is probably 1/8" wide...and the penitration didnt go through the back it just turned the inside of the pipe where the bead was like a little darker with a blue halo around it...Last edited by BlackL03; 12-12-2006 at 08:04 PM.
Reply:Weld looks cold, turn it back up, but no more black stuff which is nice. Awful lot of spatter too, even for flux core. Don't know why that is though, maybe someone else? Keep practicing!Last edited by Clanweld; 12-12-2006 at 09:04 PM.If you don't have the time to do it right, then you definitely don't have the time to do it over.
Reply:for what its worth..try going around in circles on the weld area about the size of a matchead..maybe a little bigger..get a "rythm" and keep moving... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:OK will do on the circles...SO turn the heat to high and the wire speed to as high as it will go without bouncing off the metal right?Thanks!
Reply:I'm with clanweld, now start back up with the wire speed. Small bites tho. You're still practicing. First you learn to maintain an arc a little on the cold side. Then you work up to controlling the puddle as you get hotter. Soon you'll be running high and hot, getting good fusion. If you're running e71t-gs, you'll be hearing a sizzle/crackle (like that ) and have a pretty light colored slag. Maybe even nothing more than some whitish dusty slag. The spatter will magically go away.
Reply:So turn the heat on high (opnly have two settings)...and slowly go up on the wire speed?Are these about the worst welds youve seen...haha...cause all the ones that I have seen are amazing peices of craftmanship and smooth...
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03OK will do on the circles...SO turn the heat to high and the wire speed to as high as it will go without bouncing off the metal right?Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03So turn the heat on high (opnly have two settings)...and slowly go up on the wire speed?Are these about the worst welds youve seen...haha...cause all the ones that I have seen are amazing peices of craftmanship and smooth...
Reply:Been looking at this thread for a bit. Seems like everythings been said here. Get some fresh metal. Try moving away from the ground.But since it seems every combination of heat, wire, wirespeed has been tried, what was first ackowledged is that you have some old, coated metal.I am sure you will get it.Bill
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloDon't feel bad... I have done some very ugly welding in my life.
Reply:So turn the heat on high (opnly have two settings)...and slowly go up on the wire speed?
Reply:isn't this cool guys?we bang heads and have many ways to get it done.. and one of them actually works! ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:haha thanks guys!...i will go get some flat sheet tommarrow, and maybe a new pipe...On the Low setting if i would turn it up above like .5 (less then 1) it would bounce off the pipe? so I left it at the low setting...I did do some Hi heat ones with wire at 4 to 5 and I got these...(I think these are the hi heat ones)
Reply:now your on to something.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Sandy, the welder is the Campbell Hausfield Autostrike 85...I will try to find info on it and post it up if you dont beat me too it...Edit: Here is some info...Dual heat setting. Variable wire speed control allows adjustment for smooth, even weld bead. Thermal overload protection, automatically shuts off to avoid overheating. Professional torch equipped with trigger activated arc for easy start. Includes: Welding shield, hammer/brush, flux core wire, and quick start guide. 115V. 20A input, 70A DC output. Duty cycle: 20% at 70A. Wire sizes: .030" and .035" on 4" or 8" spools. Welds from 18-gauge to 3/16" steel.output power says 40-70 AmpsLast edited by BlackL03; 12-12-2006 at 09:51 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster now your on to something.. ...zap!
Reply:I found a copy of a manual. Appears as tho it comes with a tip for .035... Eventually you should get an .030 tip or two. That's not critical at this point. The manual is awfully skinny on info other than for 14-18 gauge it says use the "low" setting for voltage and adjust wire speed accordingly. Over 14 gauge use "high". Ha!.. So for what you're doing I'll still guess "low" and crank the wire speed up a notch at a time till you're happy. Of course a bunch of practice is gonna help as much as anything. Voltage too high can create a splatter of it's own.
Reply:Originally Posted by BlackL03Really? I thought those were bad LOL |
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