My Tent Stove

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I built this last year after seeing one on this site. Made from 1/8th plate with threaded pipe for the legs. We used in deer camp last October at about 9500 feet elevation in a Cabela's Alaknak 12x12 tent. I will say that it heated the tent pretty darn well, though it needed stoked almost every 2-3 hours. I ordered a damper, but it did not arrive in time for the hunting trip. Next time I will see if I don't get a longer burn with the damper. I expect I will and hope to as stoking the fire every few hours was a bit of a drag. I used both MIG and Stick welding to build this stove. Made all the plate cuts with a 4" cutoff wheel, and used a jigsaw for the stove pipe hole. It turned out I could have bought a cheap Cabela's stove for about the same cost, but what the heck fun would that be.....Brent Attached ImagesLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:Nice stove!Thats bigger than the one I have in my house!!A damper is a good thing..I fill mine up and with the air and exhaust "shut off" the wood lasts about 7 hrs.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Very nice!  What would you estimate the weight on that?Work HARDER, not smarter! ------------------------ Miller Bobcat 250Millermatic 251Lincoln Precision TIG 185Hypertherm PM 600Hobart 135 HandlerOxweld 400 FlameMaster
Reply:The weight is 104 lbs! That is everything, stove, legs, and stove pipe. It is a heavy son-of-a-gun! Fortunatley we camp right by the trucks, so I only have to man-handle it a short distance. You won't go far into the woods with this one on your back. I built an ash pan out of the same 1/8th plate and that didn't help with the weight one bit. BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:Here is a picture of the ashpan early on in the build. I think I will take out the expanded metal and tack in some steel bars to the stove sides, running the width of the stove. The way it is setup now I have a hard time sliding the ashpan out and in. Almost like the tolerance is too tight. Attached ImagesLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:Better give it plenty of clearance..Metal expands when hot..But not all at the same time..Besides the natural "gunk" that will accumulate over time.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Is that a galvanized flue pipe?If you only fire it once a year the expanded metal is cool, fitment aside,but of you ever decide to use it daily it won't last long.Real nice work.The damper will make you happy.
Reply:That's slick looking. What are the stove dimensions anyway? Used to call those sheep herders stoves. The old  factory made ones weren't light either. Of course neither were the tents, all heavy canvas, oak beam and poles.
Reply:I think that is pretty dang cool.Since I have never been cold weather hunting....how do you get that exhaust pipe throught the tent roof without burning the tent or leaving a gap so big that cold air comes in?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:I will get some measurements as I have forgotten.You put this stove in a tent made for a stove pipe. It has a cut-out in the tent for the pipe and some sort of heat resistant coating.BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:can you buy those tents at hunting shops...I want one!Talent is a flame. Genius is a fire.- Bern Williams
Reply:Check out Cabelas.com. I bought the Alaknak with all the goodies and love it. Very nice tent.....BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:Originally Posted by Brent13Here is a picture of the ashpan early on in the build. I think I will take out the expanded metal and tack in some steel bars to the stove sides, running the width of the stove. The way it is setup now I have a hard time sliding the ashpan out and in. Almost like the tolerance is too tight.
Reply:Sorry, I had forgotten about the specs.It is 24x14x16 (LxWxH). The legs are threaded pipe. In one of the pictures you can see where the legs attach.I welded threaded pipe collars to the bottom of the stove. Screw the legs in and stand it up. Really simple for leg attachment. I also used threaded caps on the leg bottoms. These keep the legs from sinking into very soft ground. Also use these caps for a bit of leveling. By spinning the threaded cap you can lengthen or shorten the leg. Not much, but a small amount. On uneven ground, like under a tent, it doesn't by me much. It was a good thought anyway..... I will post some pictures of the stove in the tent and the nasty snow storm we experienced this past October. I will post tomorrow.BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:Here are some more photos....I thought I had a pic of the stove inside the tent, but I do not.BrentLincoln 3200HD MIGLincoln AC/DC 225 Stick
Reply:I thought I had seen everything ? A stove in a tent just takes the cake.  You really mean to tell me when you go camping you lug that big heavy thing around and set it up in a canvas tent ?????Wouldn't it be easy to take the missus along ? or better yet, mistress ? **LOL**
Reply:That stove looks good.  what did that cost in materials.  I have one that  I paid over 300 for if I remember right.  Joker11 The hole in the roof is called a "stove jack" normally some type of heat resistant silicone and the pipe will fit pretty tight in there. I have stove that I bought for my tent.  I have a damper in it and it really helps prevent having to stoke the fire so much.  This year  we used coal in the store and that was really nice over night.If I remember right my stove pipes where galvinized or had some coating on them.  I fired it up in the back yard with a really hot fire and  all the pipes attached to the storv and all that coating burned off. I could not imagine if I had not done that before putting it in the tent. maybe the long term nap
Reply:One way to get more heat with less wood burnt, is to use a heat chamber baffle.I know!This looks like a kids drawing, I just did a quick freehand in paint, cause I am CAD illiterate!The heat rises from the fire bed, and has to travel to the front, then back to the rear before it goes to the chimney, heating the metal to a higher degree before it can escape!Ken. Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Another way I have seen is to run air tubes thru that heat chamber baffle. It gives you more surface area to transfer heat to the air and sets up a convection current which will draw in air like a chimney to a limited extent. Basically just cut some large holes in the sides and weld in some pipes going side to side, to let the "cold" air pass thru the heat chamber baffle and out the other side. You will however up the weight by a bit doing this.
Reply:Throw that galvanized pipe out and use black pipe. You will kill yourself with that galvanized !
Reply:I think it looks like a real nice stove.Exactly what is the issue with the galv pipe??  I don' t know much about stoves."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Did you ever weld galvanized Samm?  The fumes are wicked and will make you sick. The stove pipe gets hot enough for it to be a problem.
Reply:wow thats a great stove
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyDid you ever weld galvanized Samm?  The fumes are wicked and will make you sick. The stove pipe gets hot enough for it to be a problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammHow come it's used in the gas furnace flue?Thanks, I don't know a thing about heating stuff.I've just heard a lot about creosote buildup.  They scare the hell outta ya with that one when it comes to wood stoves and fireplaces.  From what I gather, if you stay away from softwoods it's not as serious."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:dsw  the next step is  build a plenum  collecting all those pipes you weld in and attach a fan so you can get more air to go through and then a motorized damper   attached to a thermostat...
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammThanks, I don't know a thing about heating stuff.I've just heard a lot about creosote buildup.  They scare the hell outta ya with that one when it comes to wood stoves and fireplaces.  From what I gather, if you stay away from softwoods it's not as serious.
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyOnce again, it's all about the temperature. If you keep the flue temp high enough,( I try to average around 400 deg. F.), The creosote will not condense out of the smoke. I have burned everything I could get my paws on, and while there are huge differences in how much gunk different species produce, as long as you keep the fire HOT you don't have creosote problems.It's the guy who thinks he is saving wood by smoldering a fire all day who is gonna have trouble.