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Lincoln 225 Arc Welder - Lincoln 6013 1/8 rod 105 amps AC on Mild Steel 3/16 - FlatIm sure this is pretty bad needing some tipsI been trying to make them look like some of the Tig welds I see here.how do I get a good ending on my beads -nice and smooth crater?Can you HelpThank YouA Wana Be WeldorRon
Reply:Ron,Keep practicing. It looks like you have the basic idea of what you need. Some of your welds look too hot, some look too fast, but it looks like you have the general hang of what you are looking for. Stop being so hard on yourself, most of us made greater mistakes before the internet and digital cameras. We just got our balls broken by the local old timers. I love my stick welder, but I have been spoiled my TIG. SMAW is alive and well. I love the sparks and the smoke, its real man type welding. I built 20 years of stuff with just an AC welder. Now I stick with DC and I only use AC when I am using the TIG with aluminum. Practice and have fun, if you cant have fun, throw the entire welding thing away and get another hobby.Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by MJDamianiRon,Keep practicing. It looks like you have the basic idea of what you need. Some of your welds look too hot, some look too fast, but it looks like you have the general hang of what you are looking for. Stop being so hard on yourself, most of us made greater mistakes before the internet and digital cameras. We just got our balls broken by the local old timers. I love my stick welder, but I have been spoiled my TIG. SMAW is alive and well. I love the sparks and the smoke, its real man type welding. I built 20 years of stuff with just an AC welder. Now I stick with DC and I only use AC when I am using the TIG with aluminum. Practice and have fun, if you cant have fun, throw the entire welding thing away and get another hobby.Mike
Reply:Space em out a little. Let the plate cool between welds. Have multiple plates, practice on one and let another one cool. Try turning the heat down a little. The last box of 6013 I bought said 80 to 120 amps.They could be too hot from the plate being hot before you start the weld. Otherwise just more stick time and you will have it.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:So you guys think to hot & to fast. Ok I was using 105 amps- thinking 6013runs 90amp-125am?Which beads do you think were the right speed?In center(where the gap is at the left end) that bead (hard to see covered almost) was run at90amps and I thought it was to cold & had a hard time keeping the rod burning not sticking.I was thinking the heat in the plate was a good thing like preheat?Also you think I need to space them out.I thought when doing Stringer Beads you wanted enough over lap so there was no hills and valleys a flat surface on top?How do you stop a bead - shouldnt they be full and smooth?Oh Yea I did forget something the beads were Leading Angle Right to Left( pushing the Rod) and Im standing using right hand to weld and the left to hold on to the table (im not very steady) Im really lost just tring to get it rightI have another pictureLincoln 225 AC welder-105 amps.- Hobart 447A ( 6013 )- 1/8 in. rod- 3/16 Mild Steel Plate-Leading Angle Right to Left- standing welding with right handThe Hobart rod burnt way different than the Lincoln would like to hear what I need to work onThank You all sorry to keep asking ?But need to learn in a bad way (I need a Job )Thank YouRon
Reply:Space them out for now, so we can get an idea of your speed and heat. Its hard to tell when they are overlapped.I would turn the amperage down with the 1/8" rod. Try 90 amps.Just work on your speed and rythem. You will get it. It takes practice.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:Firstly to some of the other contributors.The over laps are part of a practice regimen- a pad weld- to encourage straight parallel welding beads and control.It is used extensively in rebuild welding.Do not get hung up on aiming to a "set " amperage on your amp indicator device.This will vary as the electricalsupply to your switched outlet varies.Strike the arc , "read" the arc,observing for the heat required and re adjust the amps if necessary. Do all this without looking at the numbers on the arc setting control. Your pad weld is starting to shape up.All machines will vary a bit in stated output from one the next. this is because your electrical supply voltage varies through out the day accordingto the grid load. Once you get used to this procedure, you can adjust amps on any machine just by observing the arc characteristics when you arc on your strike plate.Advice I would offer is cover 1/2 to 2/3 of each preceding bead with the one you are laying down. When performing this as a rebuild function it eliminates the valleys between each bead. To avoid the crater come to a complete stop for a moment at the end of each bead.practice makes perfecthpe this helps Grahame
Reply:Try some different rods too. The lincoln excaliber rods burn pretty sweet.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:I may be wrong, but it looks to me like the weld puddles are just sitting on top of the plate with little or no penetration. Suggest you experiment with pushing the 6013 rod tip into the puddle, as you go. It should feel like you are stirring the rod inside of the work piece. In addition, I have a feeling that you were not holding the rod vertical enough to allow more penetration. And, as has been said before, practice, etc., etc. Remember... penetration is almost everything. Can you saw through beads to evaluate the penetration?Last edited by Weldordie; 02-20-2007 at 10:34 PM.
Reply:If I tried to make my SMAW beads look like TIG, I'd be wasting my time. SMAW is different and will look different.Get good penetration, keep yourself steady, and it's looking good.***************************************Lincoln AC225 stick welderLincoln HD100 WeldPak flux core wire feed welderThree of the cheapest grinders money can buy
Reply:Originally Posted by KRSIf I tried to make my SMAW beads look like TIG, I'd be wasting my time. SMAW is different and will look different.Get good penetration, keep yourself steady, and it's looking good.
Reply:Laying beads side by side and keeping them straight is kind of tough-got to run each one just like the last. I will get more over lap. I dont know really where to start but here goes-Penetration- the pics. are 3/16 thick mild steel,I have scale coming off the back at every bead,when I weled on 1/8 in. this speed I have lumps on the back side. In the second pic. the left end of the beads the ones in the centerwere to cold about the first 1/2 in. You can see they are narrow and laying on top.Im holding my arc at 1/8 in. If I get any closer the rod doest burn right and beads just pile up like its not hot enough??? I dont know about the rod in the puddle?Holding the rod vertical enough ??? Both pics. are leading angle pushing the rod right to left.I held the rod almost at a 90 to the work cant hardley get it anymore vertical.90 amps. is to cold - 105 amps is about right, I thought they flowed out and melted in fair?Thanks Grahame - Its easy to get confused but learning- I thought pad welding was one of the first things to learn stck welding but think most has never done it? Ill work on my over laps and get them closer.I never see anyone show good stick welds so people could compare.I wish one of the Pros would do a pad of welds and show it offI know it would help me.Come on guys show me your Stick
Reply:No one here do AC stick welder??
Reply:Hi Ron,I would not worry too much about penetration just yet. Your travel speed in the the second photo looks pretty good.Crescent shaped ripples seems about just right. Your craters can be made neat by stopping dead and doing little circles two or three times will finish the bead of well. I can post pics of a pad weld but can't do any his week end. soon! Plate size of about 3/8 or 1/2" will say 4 x3' wil' stop a too rapid overheating if desired.they can be cooled an d flipped over to use for the other side.regular practice is the go !Grahame
Reply:Not my best Pic. 1/8 6013 95 amps AC. You can see the plate got warmer as I got to the end of the bead. More if I get time today at work. Spatter included because I ran it on AC. Next one I will clean off the mill scale and you will see the difference. Attached ImagesLast edited by David R; 02-23-2007 at 05:56 AM.Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:6013 100 amps with mill scale removed. Attached ImagesReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David R6013 100 amps with mill scale removed.
Reply:Well if memory serves me correct with 6013 you need to long arc it just a bit at the start as well as have a pretty high lead angle, after the flux quits swirling, that is when it is getting trapped, then you need to keep quite a short arc length, it is a good rod to learn with as it will penalize you for bad angles and such, I think you have the general idea you just need some more practice, if have not used it in 10 years or so I could be wrong, good luck.steve
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldordieWas the second example DC?
Reply:Looks better. To end the weld, back the tip of the electrode to center of the crater, count 1 2 3 in your head and break the arc. It becomes second nature after a while. At the start of your weld, start about 1/2 inch down the bead path with the arc length increased, and back up to the beginning of the weld (preheats), then start your bead as normal. Your looking smooth.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Thanks Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Hi DavidAs they say down here:No worries mate! Your control and hand /eye co ordination have advanced significantly in just a few days.You are ready to take on some of the different welding joints. Corner tee fillets are probably the easiest ones to take on. When training my blokes I always have them weld one side of the coupon only, and have them break the coupon under the press.The vertical leg of the tee needs to be set near the mid line off the base plate to get enough press leverage to fracture the weld. It offers the dual advantages of examining inside the weld fracture and the the re-use of the plate for further practice.Cheers Grahame
Reply:Doolittle and Grahame, I posted those welds for Ron Hicks. Been doin it for 30 years. DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Dave ThanksSlick welds - I need burn more rod.Dave are the welds you made draging the rod or pushing the rod?I was pushing the rod in my pics.Im gald you have improved enough to try other welds The last box of rod made 40 lbs. Any more tips?That last weld looks NICE Thanks youRon
Reply:Ron, I guess you would say dragging, but to me its Backhand. What you are doing is forehand. Dragging is letting the rod ride on the flux with 7014 or 7024. Stick should be done backhand most of the time. Watch the puddle, if the slag is getting ahead of you, you nead to lean the stick a little more to blow back the slag. 15* to 25* should do it. The key phrase above is Watch the puddle.Have a blast.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:24