Basic TIG Procedure

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Figure that I'll post up and listen to the experienced hads before I go and kill myself...Im thinking about jumping the gun and switching my box over to TIG to finally give it a shot (I know, Ive sinned).  Thus far all Ive been doing is SMAW, but just cannot hold back any longer.Are there any good "write ups" regarding the actual process/settings?  I looked and didnt find much really for my particular situation.With some 1/8" mild steel sqare tubing what parameters would you guys recommend?  What size cup, tungsten, gas flow, HF or not, hood settings, what not to do's, etc?  Im certain I could figure it out, but want to keep it safe and solid.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Watch this, it will give you a basic idea of technique: http://millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/TIG_tips/John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Hell, dont hold back.  I figured you were just stick welding to learn how (thats why Im doing it).  Its your box man.  1/8 go like 130~140 amps and just use your pedal, burn through a piece just to see what it takes.  Its fun! 3/32 red, no need to pulse unless you just want to see what happens (the stack of dimes really occurs when you advance the puddle and do a dip, has nothing to do with the pulse function).  Just practice making equal number of dips and try to keep your bead straight and the length the same for a while.  You can do a 'pad' like we were working on with stick.  Ive put up the tig till I get through stick class (guess were starting mig next week).  When you dip, put the rod at the edge of puddle and just let it melt (dont force the rod).  Use the biggest cup youve got (I think mine has a #6).  The HF is to get the arc started and yes, go ahead and use it.  Use about 15 cfh, #10 on the shade is what I use (its my preference, you might need to go darker).  Keep the weld flat, dont try going verticle until you get some practice, but then again, if you want to try it, go ahead.  Nows the time to experiment.  First thing I did was started the arc and played with amperages until I actually got a burn through on 1/4 inch plate.  Gave me an idea of how long I could hold on a spot and how fast to move.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneWatch this, it will give you a basic idea of technique: http://millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/TIG_tips/
Reply:Tig done right takes $$$$Just remember that..Dont want to see anyone spend a fortune to make a small one.. But if the resourses are there..go for it!Its easy.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Here is ac hart that you may find helpfulhttp://www.ckworldwide.com/tech-6.pdf_________________Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterTig done right takes $$$$Just remember that..Dont want to see anyone spend a fortune to make a small one.. But if the resourses are there..go for it!Its easy.. ...zap!
Reply:To get everything you need to Tig this that and the other thing takes diffrent Gasses..Wire..Colletts..Cups..Tungestion sizes.. This adds up to big $$$ fastLet alone the Electric bill... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Ah, yes.  I already got that stuff sitting there with the welder.  Full 150 Argon tank already painted Miller blue (I dont want to commit a welding fashion faux pas), a "better than" contractor kit, a jar full of tungsten (red and blue), 6 collets, 6 cups (2 of 3 different sizes), and three new tubes of Radnor ER70S2 3/32" rod.You are correct in that it adds up QUICKLY!ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Just my .02... once you go HF you won't go back.  I like the fact that you touch the throttle and the arc lights.  No sticking, no horsing around.
Reply:Okay.  So this is my FIRST rod of GTAW so please be gentle...Im learning on my own by trial and error.  I didnt clean it (I know of someone who ought to scold me cause I now know better).  0.25" plate, 140A.  First three were with a "balled tip", and the last two were with a freshly sharpened tip.  They look like heck, but any advice would be greatly appreciated.I numbered them in the order they were set...ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Clean helps but the -2 wire should compensate. You definately need more heat, hit that pedal! Other than that, more practice helps, you have the idea down. No ball tips on anything...not even aluminum. Grind the tip axial - with the length of the tung., not radial - around the tung.edit: Is that your tungsten at the bottom of the pic?Last edited by MicroZone; 02-25-2007 at 12:20 AM.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:first 3 look pretty cold, last 2 are much better but still cold.id stick to using just sharpened tungsten, no ball.  sharpening the tungsten to a point helps focus the arc.i wish my first tig welds looked that good, keep practicing it just takes seat time
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneClean helps but the -2 wire should compensate. You definately need more heat, hit that pedal! Other than that, more practice helps, you have the idea down. No ball tips on anything...not even aluminum. Grind the tip axial - with the length of the tung., not radial - around the tung.edit: Is that your tungsten at the bottom of the pic?
Reply:Welds 2 & 4 look like you getting the basic idea.What hasn't been mentioned is the arc is meant to melt the parent metal and the filler wire is stroked into the front edge of the molten pool in the parentmetal. Maybe  the other blokes assumed you already new. I look at welds 1, the left half of 3 and 5 and I see what appears to be  the results of wire melted by the arc, the dollop like deposits.This will not fuse to the base metal surface unless the surface is molten.The tig is pushed -eg for a RH person right to left.Also your surface preparation of the parent metal needs to be squeeky clean. rust is a no,no. Tig steel filler wires contain only a slight percentage of alloyed metals  to act as deoxidisers or cleaners of the molten metal. Fluxed stick electrodes show this property especially LH. Thats why things have to real clean.For electrode stick out I try to keep it close the ceramic say 1 to 2 diameters a bit more for an internal corner fillet, but there maybe other ideas.
Reply:Thanks for the advice.  I thought it was more of a "dabbing" motion.  No real motions then?  Just "feeding" it into the pool then.  What am I looking for to be sure that the parent metal is "ready" to begin introducing the wire?  When you say "close to the ceramic...1-2 diametres...do you mean 1-2 diametres of the tungsten?  Im also surprised that while scavenging the site it looks like everyone is running a little lean on the Argon (compared to Miller's site recommendations of 15-20cfm) or am I missing something?  Is more gas gonna hurt or be beneficial for the newbie?  Also, is there a special way to end the bead or is it just let off the go pedal and let the Argon continue to flow over the weld?Im stuck at the U right now, but will give it a go tonight at home...Seriously, thanks for all your guys' help with this.  This GTAW is ALOT more exciting than stick!  Even though my stick welds currently look way better!ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:For a flat horizontal weld like that, you dont need to push the argon around, it falls to the puddle (its denser than air).  15 cfh is plenty to get you started.  Hold the pedal wide open for a while, If thats 1/4 inch plate, its gonna take a while to melt through it, slow down a little, if it sags through, move a little quicker, do a small circular motion to increase puddle size.  Its all rythem.  And see, you didnt blow up!  amazing..Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Okay, so I got the time to lay down one wire tonight.  First, it was ground down with the Dewalt.  Then Acetoned prior to stepping up.  Set it at 170A and let a small (like the top of a pencil erasor) melting pot start before I fed the wire.  Tried a few things and feel it helped alot.  Maybe someone here can take a look and tell me how its going, suggest some other advice, and slap me around a little! Just remember that this is literally my second wire...Edit:  dang, I just realized that I really coulda ground some more...alot more really.  Need to get some flapdisks.Last edited by DirtyLittleSecret; 02-26-2007 at 12:40 AM.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Looks much better !John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Looks way better than the first photos!As Grahame implied, it looked like you were melting blobs of filler onto the plate.Now, I can tell you are melting the base metal and adding filler to the puddle as you should.  I don't know what you are doing to try to make the "stack of dimes" look, maybe you are pausing - moving - pausing, but the individual puddles you are making are too far apart, they need to be overlapped more.For starters, try just moving the torch at a constant forward speed, in a straight line, at a constant arc length (1/16 -1/8" max), and dab the wire into the weld pool at regular rythmic intervals.  Once you get this down, then start messing with torch motion manipulations.
Reply:I'll give it a go with that recommendation.  Thanks a bunch for all the help.  I really dont know what Im looking to accomplish (final product) with mild steel.  Seems almost all the pics out there is of Aluminum or Stainless Steel, or steel that's got the signature "dime" effect.  If anyone's got a good photo of similiar parameters it'd be appreciated.Any other advice would also be appreciated!ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Slow Down!!You spacing is way too far apart..Make a puddle..Then dip..Move ahead 1/8" and repeat..Keep on track like that and you will begin to see the "stack'o'dimes effect..But keep moving along at a steady pace......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Ran another wire today after using a 60 grit flapper disk to get it shiny new lookin', and used acetone.  Evidently I coulda cleaned even more...I dont know what I did, but my welder is MUCH quieter today than yesterday (no buzzing).  Ran 130A, and seemed to have more heat.  I dont think I changed any settings.  Gad this has got to be easier when sitting at a table with a pedal you can control!  Will build my fab table this spring break for certain.So, any more feedback?Slow down, clean more, more wire, and less amperage?and the other side...ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecretI dont know what I did, but my welder is MUCH quieter today than yesterday (no buzzing).  Ran 130A, and seemed to have more heat.  I dont think I changed any settings. If anyone's got a good photo of similiar parameters it'd be appreciated.Any other advice would also be appreciated!
Reply:Gave it another go this evening as the Mrs decidedly wanted to watch some fu-fu movie.  Have done 2.5 months worth of research in the last 3 days and figured I deserved some hood time.  Amazing how relaxing this is...BTW: the three smaller beads were my last ones.Any other ideas/comments/recommendations?  Oh, and just like some here use dimes I have my own trademark...the crater.Last edited by DirtyLittleSecret; 03-04-2007 at 01:05 AM.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!Looks like ya got it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecret...
Reply:Oh ya, i'll 2nd that - good job!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Thanks guys for all your help.  As you can see Im still just fooling around, but with 5 wires under my belt perhaps I should be playing more!  I gotta figure a couple days to dedicate.  Maybe after I build a table!ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:I like the crater!  Getting a good feel for the rythm I see and its coming along nicely.  What thickness and amps were you on?Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Originally Posted by DoolittleI like the crater!  Getting a good feel for the rythm I see and its coming along nicely.  What thickness and amps were you on?
Reply:In general, you want one amp of juice for every .001" of base metal thickness.  Tungsten stickout from the cup should be no more than the cup dia.  Use 1 second of post flow for every ten amps of current.  Clean your base metal, your filler, and your tungsten for best results.  Use only SS brushes to clean base metal.  Don't use the same brush for different materials.  Arc length should be no more than the tungsten dia.  Steady travel speed is critical.  Try ceriated electrodes for inverter machines.  One basic concept to keep in mind is to use the torch to establish the puddle, let it soak in to set your penetration depth, and use the filler to build up the bead as well as cool the puddle.