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GTAW Aluminum Advice

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:08 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I am running a Dynasty 200 DX, WP20 torch, 3/32 Tungsten Orange, Gas Lens.  I have run some welds with 5356 rod and 4043.  When I was running the 4043 at first I was getting weld beads that looked like some of the better ones I have seen.  Kind of shiny on the back side of the bead and a little dull towards the front (I don't have pics of any of my decent looking welds).  I switched to the 5356 rod and was getting welds that looked speckled.  I switched back to the 4043 and am still getting the same look.  Can anyone give me some setup advice for the Dynasty?  Frequency, etc...  Anything that is a good place to start.I cleaned with acetone, wire brush and then acetone again.  Any advice on stopping without creating a small depression?I am taking a welding class at the local vo-tech, but we haven't gotten to aluminum yet.  Any constructive criticism is appreciated.
Reply:I have a dynasty also but just so you know that 5356 wont melt as fast as the 4043. And Ive found if your not using a water cooled torch try using a 1/8 tungsten instead of 3/32. You'll be able to get more current through it . I usually go with the higher end of the frequency range - above 50 anyway. Be  sure you clean your rod even though it may just came out of the tube.  By the way try using the crater fill / fadeout  timer  so it limits the sinkholes at the end of your welds.  The 4043's look good though.
Reply:You're gettin there! Just keep practicing. Couple questions1. What size cup are you using? and what is your shielding gas flow? If you are running a smaller cup, try lowering your argon flow to around 15 cfh, and work up slowly from there, as too much flow with a small cup can cause a turbulent puddle. Your beads on the plate look pretty good, but you might be running too high of an amperage on the t joints, that or your travel speed was a little slow. 2. How is your filler metal stored? you should try to keep it in an enclosed container, as the oxide that forms on aluminum, also forms on filler metal that is exposed to the open air, just as you remove the oxide when you wire brush your base material, you should also make sure your filler metal is clean, and doesn't have a heavy oxide layer on it. As far as filling the depression at the end of the weld, do you have a remote amperage control? If so, you can just ramp down the last second or so and fill the depression. The biggest battle with welding aluminum is making sure it's clean, Zapster had a great post a few weeks ago showing two different aluminum tig welds, one piece he cleaned, the other was dirty, there was a huge difference in bead appearance between the two! Good Luck and keep us posted.
Reply:Do the black spots apear when you add the filler?  Welds look good.  Fillet needs more filler.  For the black spots, its lack of shielding gas.  More, or less, I can't tell.I use a TA 185, but the settings should be the same.  AC wave balance 25% +  more if your welds are not shiny, 80 hertz or so, 150 amps.  For the crater, add more filler before you stop and back off the pedal in a nice slow fashion.  About 5 seconds or more.  Just plan ahead to stop and you will get rid of the craters.Try to dip your rod in the front of the puddle every second.  For the fillet its more of a "Stick" instead dip.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:The trick is to add filler to the "hole" as it starts..You get the hole by just stopping the weld "there" and thats that..Don't Ya?Don't say no..because the answer is yes.. What you do is stop like you are.. then hit the pedal again and "dip" your filler and then go around in small circles with the torch and "dip" again untill you build a nice "tit"..For tat.. Tats the way the hole goes away.. And things under stress with holes in them..Usually come apart starting at the hole..  And it will not annodize if its sent out after at the hole... And in another pic I see you have the "Horseshoe" thing happening at the beginning of the weld...  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks Zap,  Much better deescription than mine.Ya learn sumpin new every day.Now I'm gonna try to make a tit.   David  Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
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