Which cored wire do I need

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OK, I weld 3/4 to 3/8 verticle up.  I do this A LOT.  When its not windy I use the LN-25, .045 wire with Co2.  Works great and is pretty fast.  On windy days, I get out the stinger and 1/8 or 5/32 7018.    I can weld twice as fast with the bare wire.  It looks great.  I am looking for a self shielding wire that will work on windy days.  Spec sez "E70XX electrode" and in another part of the print it sez "Low hydregen"  (can't speel)  The bare wire has "Low hydregen qualities" and I have not been called on that one.  I am looking for an all position cored wire.  Probaly 5/64" that has easy slag removal.  I messed around with some ET71-11 (?) wire today.  I can do the up thing, but slag removal was tough.  I probaly was not doing it right, but it looked OK.  Most weld specs are for 5/16 or 3/8 fillet.  I also have to weld the 3/4 to 1 1/2" plate on the flat.  The bare wire does not work for me, too much spatter when I crank it up to get good penatration, so I use 5/32 7024, 5/32 7018 with 3 passes.  Last time I tried some 3/16 7018.  It would work nice cept the rod was old and crappy even after I dried it in my oven at 300f the night before.  Gonna buy some fresh stuff because I can do the flat in one pass.These welds have to pass AWS inspection.DavidLast edited by David R; 03-26-2007 at 06:47 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:You would want a Linc NR-232 or 233 or a Hobart Fabshield 7018 or Durashield 8-11 to meet the impact/weld qualities you mentioned. Basically a E71T-8 wire. They are CV only as well. 5/64 may be pushing the 250 a little. I primarily use 1/16 myself.
Reply:Ding!!Ding!!Calling ZTFab.....???...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:as a general rule steel from 1/4" to 3/8" you use .045 and over 3/8" use .052at work we weld over 1 inch plate with .045 E71t with c25 gas
Reply:I screwed up, 5/64 = .078.  Too big.  .052 should be fine. The stuff I was using today was .o45.  Thanks for the quick response.  I will look for some tomorrow.  I need to run this stuff really well before I try it on the job site.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David R  I messed around with some ET71-11 (?) wire today. These welds have to pass AWS inspection.David
Reply:Try Hobart Fabshield 21-b. You'll probably like it just fine.
Reply:Fab 21-B doesn't have any impact qualities. If you must equal a 7018, that won't do it. That is why I said the T-8 wires. They will meet the requirements.21-B is my favorite as well, fwiw.
Reply:Today I am goin huntin for some wire Thanks guys.  I am going to shoot for the -8 stuff.  My local welding supply house is kind of old fashioned.  The -11 was some stuff I had around to try.  Must have been 10 years old or more.  I had to peel off a lot of rusty wire to get to the good stuff.  I burned up the rest of the roll yesterday.  I have always run bare wire, but its time to catch up with the rest of the world.David
Reply:The T-8 wires are pretty picky on settings.  In order for you to get good sound welds, you must stay withing certain parameters.  AWS has mentioned this several times in their magazines, not only because it makes good reading, but because it is important.  Most ppl don't use the right settings with T-8 wires and then they wonder why their welds fail....
Reply:I went to my LWS and asked for cored wire with all the #s mentioned above.  The threw a roll of "Dualshield" wire on the counter.  I asked if that needed sheilding gas.  They said Yes, that is all there is.  I said is the wind blows the gas away will I get porisity?  He said yes.  Then I asked for the NR 233.I ended up with NR 233 in 1/16".  That was the smallest available and it had to be ordered.  I will gladly accept any suggested settings.  Welds are verticle up, 3/4 plate to 3/8 Plate. If I burn off the galv on the other side of the 3/8, its called "Over penatration".  So  it doesn't have to be too hot, but still controlable with a nice smooth puddle.  This will go in a LN-25 powered by a ranger 250.   I have some 3/4 gussets I took off and some 3/8 plate so I can get my stuff together before I take it to the job site.  No expermenting on the job.  If I can't get it right, its stick on windy days.Thanks a bunch for all the help.DavidThis is the best paying job I have ever had.
Reply:David, since you are gonna use the T-8 wires, I would strongly suggest you go to Lincoln's site and download their FCAW guide and Innershield catalog. All the parameters will be there. Follow them religiously and don't ever exceed if you want them to work correctly. They are finicky wires, but when you get the hang of them and get used to the parameters, it will be easy. The Miller Blogsite had a very good article on T-8 wire welding a bit ago. The AWS forum always has stuff on them. Read all you can before the wire gets to you and you will do fine.
Reply:here ya gohttp://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...re/c320003.pdf
Reply:Thank you verry much.Printed and studied.  I see I will be running it on the lower scale.  17 to 19 volts is a pretty good range, I will see how it works when It shows up.  Maybe even post some pics once I get the hang of it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.