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I did some searching on this forum but I did not come away with a good idea of what I was to do. I have done some out of position welding and need some advice on how to keep from dripping or sagging beads. Obviously, practice makes perfect but I want to make sure I practice the correct method.GMAW on .095 to .120 1 3/4" DOM mild steel for a roll cage is the project at hand. I am using .030 in a Lincoln 175+ with 20/80 and wonder if .035 would be better as the unit is about maxed out at .030. A weaving or oval tip movement is prefered as I think I get better weld but have done a bit of "still" beads when I forget to weave. When should or should you not keep it moving? 95% are overhead welds with some in corners, some will be flat or somewhat flat and some will be horizontal welds on vertical surfaces since it's round tubing bend into a roll cage.Other joints will most likely be FCAW because there is not enough room to get the gas shield between the cage and the body so I'll take it off.I still have a hell of a time seeing ahead of the puddle even when looking at an angle. Turning off the overhead lights and blocking back light out of my helmet and the direct opposite of using a bright light to one side will be tried. My Jackson auto dark helmet has a #10 lens and I am not sure about a #9. Any and all suggestions or cautions are most welcome.Also, should I leave a small gap or grind a small V notch or figure with that thin of material I'm good to go with a pretty tight fit to begin with?Thanks,TomLast edited by tom_sprecher; 05-05-2007 at 09:31 PM.
Reply:stringer beads for over head. No weave or just a little bit of movement between the two places. Set your over head for the same as verticle up. (thanks welderwomn). I find less volts or more wire speed helps with over head.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:some people will either cut off part of or the whole roof or cut holes in the floor under the cage to drop it down. if you are welding a unibody car the baseplates will cover the holes used to drop the cage down, if it is full frame the cage should be attached to the frame so you can lift the body off the frame to make room above the cage to weld it on top.
Reply:Cut the holes and drop it down. That's the way to go. If you don't have room to get a nozzle up there, you'll never have the proper angle to get any kind of penetration anyways. NHRA mandates that if you can't weld the joint 360 degrees, you must gusset it.Stringers for overhead as mentioned. You should be moving quickly enough to where sagging should definitely not be an issue on this material. No gaps on fitup, keep it tight. Deburring/radiusing the edges of the tubes is more than adequate prep for MIG'ing a cage, don't worry about creating extra surface area or trying to achieve full penetration. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:10:10