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Here's another project of mine that's in work. It's a waste oil burner that uses old crankcase oil. I sort of put it on the back burner (no pun intended) because it was to be used to heat our hot tub, but the hot tub has been sold. I'm thinking of using it to heat water for the house instead. Check out how clean it burns. (Turn on your sound.)[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxQQp20wAc0[/ame]Last edited by bratkid63; 07-03-2009 at 11:13 AM.Reason: Add further commentMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC (Sold)Miller Dialarc 250HFMiller MM251Miller MM200 (Sold)Miller MM130Miller Spot WelderVictor O/A rigMiller Spoolmatic 1 (Sold)
Reply:How do you heat your water without vaporizing it at 1200 degrees? Can you control the flame and heat?
Reply:1200 degrees is the temperature inside the heat exchanger chamber. My plan is to run a 3/4" copper coil inside the chamber with water circulating through it. The water will not remain stationary inside the chamber, rather it will flow through the coil, picking up heat as it travels.Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC (Sold)Miller Dialarc 250HFMiller MM251Miller MM200 (Sold)Miller MM130Miller Spot WelderVictor O/A rigMiller Spoolmatic 1 (Sold)
Reply:Originally Posted by bratkid631200 degrees is the temperature inside the heat exchanger chamber. My plan is to run a 3/4" copper coil inside the chamber with water circulating through it. The water will not remain stationary inside the chamber, rather it will flow through the coil, picking up heat as it travels.
Reply:Originally Posted by gsusmaniacHow do you heat your water without vaporizing it at 1200 degrees? Can you control the flame and heat?
Reply:When I first built it, it was to be used to heat a hot tub. It wasn't going to be a closed / pressurized system, so if the water stopped circulating it would have boiled out of the coil harmlessly without pressurizing anything (no BOOM).If I do decide to heat water for the house with it, I absolutely will need some thermal / pressure safety devices. I could probably integrate a flow switch in the water flow that would kill the fuel supply as well as the burner blower, if the flow stopped.For right now, it's still in the R&D phase. Actually it's stored in the shed, pending the completion of some more pressing projects.Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC (Sold)Miller Dialarc 250HFMiller MM251Miller MM200 (Sold)Miller MM130Miller Spot WelderVictor O/A rigMiller Spoolmatic 1 (Sold)
Reply:Looks good, how about some burner details.WeldPro LS160PForce Cut LP80D
Reply:thats awsome!! I'am with Gadget burner details, your killing me!I started to makeing a waste oil burner for my shop , hav'nt got to far. winter or long and cold in minnesota.Daye
Reply:It's known as a Turk burner. The basic design can be seen here: http://www.green-trust.org/2000/biof...rk/default.htm In a nutshell, it's an empty freon bottle with it's top cut off nested inside of a 20 LB propane bottle. The propane bottle forms a pressurized chamber around the freon bottle, which has 4 rows of holes drilled around it's perimeter, to allow the air to flow into the combustion chamber. The fuel (waste oil) is fed through a drip tube to the center of the freon bottle.I made a few mods to the design, most notably a force fed fuel supply.Next time I pull it out of the shed, I'll post some better photos of the actual construction / welding, if someone wants them.Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC (Sold)Miller Dialarc 250HFMiller MM251Miller MM200 (Sold)Miller MM130Miller Spot WelderVictor O/A rigMiller Spoolmatic 1 (Sold)
Reply:Originally Posted by bratkid63If I do decide to heat water for the house with it, I absolutely will need some thermal / pressure safety devices. I could probably integrate a flow switch in the water flow that would kill the fuel supply as well as the burner blower, if the flow stopped. |
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