3F update new pics

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so today i did more testing with amps and speed and movement. the first set of pics are at 115 amp and using a J movement. Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:second are at 115 and same movement and speed 50% overlap Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:these are at 95 amp same movementUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:these are at 90 amp same movementUploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:these are 90 amp on the left side which was not as hot.Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:Now  the cooling time between pass was about 5 min. i cant wait longer since its only a 2 hour class. Now i do notice when i start a new side and i do the root pass and two beads at115 they come out so nice No under cut. As i keep going it gets undercut and the more i hold to fill in  the size of the bead gets bigger.So in my opinion the the metal is getting to hot which is making the undercut. I have a plan and i want to see what you guys think since i cant wait for the metal cool down. i was thinking of running the beads at around 85 to 90 amps since i feel that i can control the weld pool and under cut better. In my opinion bead over bead does not require that much amp and 115 is to hot. What do u guys think??Last edited by angel85lx; 10-13-2011 at 01:35 AM.
Reply:since the first fotos  at 115 amps are not all spatter, i assume you have 1/8 rod looks like 7018..i dont think any of it looks too bad..maybe you can get a few more plates to rotate through and let them cool  better..keep it up..
Reply:Are you doing this in prep for 1/2 beveled plate? or all this just for x joints.. The behavior of the puddle kinda changes in the beveled plate..And the amperage's will change also. There is no quench bucket or barrel in the lab?Owner G&S Mobile Welding & Millwright Services, LLCSpencerville, Ohio Adult Ed. Instructor at Apollo Career Center Lima, Ohio
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadsince the first fotos  at 115 amps are not all spatter, i assume you have 1/8 rod looks like 7018..i dont think any of it looks too bad..maybe you can get a few more plates to rotate through and let them cool  better..keep it up..
Reply:Originally Posted by HondarussAre you doing this in prep for 1/2 beveled plate? or all this just for x joints.. The behavior of the puddle kinda changes in the beveled plate..And the amperage's will change also. There is no quench bucket or barrel in the lab?
Reply:Yes, it will damage then if you're testing... But for practice's sake, drown those f**kers so that you can actually get some time behind the hood. Just remember to stay away from the quench tanks come test day.Good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by angel85lxYes It's in training for the 1/2 bevel plate. We do have a dunk tank but was told not to dunk hot metal. Reason was it will damage the coupons if I was testing out.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWTrue, but you need the work to be at a reasonable temp to practice on as well. Running bead after bead without letting the material cool sufficiently between passes can bust a test as well, depending on the test.As suggested, having several practice pieces and rotating between them while they cool would help. Dunking the material to cool it quicker isn't the best habit to get into, but if you only have a limited amount of stock to practice on, it's a common practice to lower the temp to the point you can weld again. When you get to the point you are working on your coupons for the test, don't dunk. Until then, I'd say go ahead as long as it is acceptable with the instructor. If it's not acceptable with him, I'd want more material to work on ( probably quite a bit more material since I'm paying for a class to practice welding, not watch hot metal cool) so I have several to lay aside to cool. Also keep in mind that there's a big difference in dunking metal thats still glowing, and dunking a piece that's simply "hot".
Reply:remember when welding 7018. 88 amp (Lincoln welder) is the best way to go with an 1/8 gap between your electrode and the work surface. per 1/8 inch space you have you long arc it and add to your amp ridge 10 or 12 amp's so take your time count 1 1 2 in your passes yo maintain a constant rate of convection and remember that due to the electrical flow the metal is magnetically charged so trust in the rode.......and good luck in class(i would also recommend thermal dynamics!)
Reply:hit me up if you got questions about that but be for wornd i'm not use to this forym thing so be accentual ya accentual??
Reply:Your right angel85 your probably getting undercut because your metal is getting to hot. Also 115 amps is probably to hot for vertical I run mine at 95 to 105 amps depending on the machine and other factors.Lincoln 225 RangerSa200            01 dodge  3500 welding rig
Reply:Not enough carbon in mild steel to harden, dunk away! Even if you were welding on a piece of high carbon steel, you are not bending it at this point so again, dunk away.