Lenco S-12 Splicer

admin

Well after a month the good people over at weldingsupply.com got my order to me! Customer service there is actually rather lousy... when you call, it seems they could care less. I had to ask someone after nearly 3 weeks to call the manufacturer to get some type of shipping commitment. If this wasn't for hobby I'd cancel the order. On the plus side the wire I ordered from them was made in America!Anyway, I got this Lenco s-12 splicer that I want to use as a replacement for part #77 in the attached diagram labeled output lead tip. My questions are:1. These splicers are labeled for 1-2 gauge wire, I have 2 gauge, but when I test fit the wire inside the splicer, the insulated wire could fit! Is there that much difference between 1 and 2 gauge?2. I don't have a proper crimper, should I install the splicer in a v block and use a blunt nose pin punch to crimp?3. If the splicer doesn't snug up sufficiently, should I solder it in? Would it be safe to solder this connection? Is there a possibility of heat remelting the solder out?Thanks in advance.Just realized you can't make out $hit in the attachment... page 5 @ http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...oln3/im124.pdf Attached Images
Reply:Hi,I have had the same experience with Weldingsupply- their price & selection are hard to beat; customer service... not so much!If you want to use the S-12 splicer, you should have Lenco's model 840 crimper. It's a bit primitive, but cheap and effective- I use mine often and it beats Jerry-rigging with vises, chisels, etc.If the wire fits too loosely, wrap some thin copper flashing around the strands before crimping. Soldering this type of connectors is generally frowned upon- solder is not as good a conductor as copper and it will melt if the cable gets hot.Also, make sure the plugs on the cables will actually fit that splicer. If not, you may be able to get similar connectors made for that purpose. Many welders use the same type.HTH,JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Thanks John. I'm glad I am not the only one!  I managed to work it out this morning. No solder! I cut the splicer in half to use the two ends. I then kerfed the unflared side, think like a hollow point bullet, about halfway down the length of the splicer. I crushed the "fingers" together and that alone crimped the wires real tight. I went further and peened around the perimeter below the flare in four spots. Not going anywhere   The splicer was then able to fit real snug into the welder socket. Thanks for the info