Old welding rods?

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When I got my welder I got a bunch of welding rods for free, they were at least 5 years old and some where 7018's. All the rods had either rust or white powdery residue on them, but they were dry. I tried them out today on some rusty 1/4" steel angle and I had a hell of time with them sticking. I had prep'ed the surface to get rid of most of the rust, but either I had the juice cranked up too much or? The sticks were 1/8" 6010 and 7018 and I tried settings of 90-180 amps. I pulled out a new 3/32 e6013 and it melted like butter...
Reply:They're pretty good for weighting down your scrap bin at best...7018s are moisture sensitive, you could always try baking them to remove that moisture, but electrodes are probably the cheapest part of a welding setup, Id just get some new ones. Plus, 6013s are considerably easier to run than 7018s until you get used to them and 6010s are a different game all together...[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:In my experience, 6013's age well and even seem to run a little better when exposed to some moisture.  I don't generally buy 7018s because you need to keep them very dry (ie., in a rod oven).  I only get them when I have a specific need.  I don't have much experience with the aging of 6010s.On another note, I have some Hobart 6013s that seem to have a different flux coating.  It is light brown rather than the light grey I am used to.  I got these from Tractor Supply and even right out of the box, they ran like crap with tons of spatter and a wandering arc.  I haven't thrown them away but I avoid them like the plague.  Anyone else used these?
Reply:Hobart 6013 do run like crap, bought 1/2lb once and never again. 6010's often run better with a little moisture in them. 7018's will usually go south when damp, they stick and pop and the flux tends to crack and flake off, slag gets harder and harder to remove and the beads start to look rough.
Reply:chopnhack, you haven't mentioned whether your welding machine is AC, DC, or AC/DC. E6010 is DC only, E7018 is supposed to be either AC or DC, yet it likes DC far better, and E6013 likes either AC or DC equally well, IMHO. Just my $.02. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Thanks guys. Lanse, fill me in some more on 6010. What did you mean about it being a whole other animal.I got the new box of 6013 because I read it was the easiest to run, and man am I glad! To be fair, the workpiece was pretty rusty and the old rods were pretty crappy.... I was able to tack and run a bead horizontally to make angle into box, but it was pretty chickeny I'll have to take a pic and post for some laughs later.Thanks!AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:Originally Posted by chopnhackThanks guys. Lanse, fill me in some more on 6010. What did you mean about it being a whole other animal.I got the new box of 6013 because I read it was the easiest to run, and man am I glad! To be fair, the workpiece was pretty rusty and the old rods were pretty crappy.... I was able to tack and run a bead horizontally to make angle into box, but it was pretty chickeny I'll have to take a pic and post for some laughs later.Thanks!
Reply:Chop, since you're showing your welding machine to be an AC180, forget about using the 6010 rod. It only runs on DC.But a similar rod you can use on AC is 6011. It penetrates deep and is a good all position rod, like 6010.All your old rod you have now are probably no good. If they are rusty and have a white powdery residue on them, they have been in a damp environment at some time or other and may even be rusty under the flux coating.If you want to use 7018, you are better off to get some 7018AC. They will run better with your machine than regular 7018. They both are a low hydrogen rod. Also you can consider 7014, as it will run smooth like 6013, but with more penetration. And you don't have to worry about it drawing moisture like 7018, or 7018AC.
Reply:i have 30 lb of red lincoln 6010 that use to be 100lb..at least three years old..covered with what looks like grey mold...burns just fine.7018 better forget about them
Reply:Thanks guys.Lanse, the 3/32 6013 I picked up because the project I intend to weld will be 1/8" wall rectangle tubing. I had some scrap 1/4" angle so I decided to play around with it. I haven't got by my grinder yet so I wasn't able to open a groove so that is probably why there isn't any penetration. I might see if I can find some 7024 as well.See if you can guess which was 6010/7018 and which was 6013. Notice on the last photo, neither had penetrated to the inside (again not having the groove ground in) Attached ImagesAC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:Im gonna say the first one's 6010...Looks like way too long an arc length, and probably not the right amperage setting either...You might want to try holding the electrode closer to the work-piece and turning it down a notch...[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Dead on Lanse! The problem I had with that was the rod kept sticking, but again my technique was completely wrong for the 6010. I was trying to just run a quick bead, no whipping like you said. I'll have to get some of that 1/8" wall box to experiment on, at least it will be clean! I think I will stick with the 6013 and drop the amperage on it, as you see in the second photo, that was about 120a and it was like feeding a stick of butter into a furnace. I was amazed at how hard it was to keep up with it!AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:Hello chopnhack, one of the other guys explained to you that the E6010 is designated as a DC only rod, the reason for that is the make-up of the flux coating on that rod. When you try to run E6010 on an AC machine there are no carrier additives in the flux to stabilize the arc and thus when the current makes the transition from DC- to DC+ or vice-a-versa it tends to extinguish and make getting a consistent arc next to impossible. If you are able to get it to run you will generally be using way too many amps to provide for decent bead control. E6011 on the other hand is an AC rod which runs in the same fashion as the E6010(referring to whip and pause), yet it has stabilizers in the flux coating on it that will allow for proper amp settings, smooth/consistent arc ignition, and allow for much more aesthetic finished beads. So if you do plan on going with a "whip and pause electrode" on your machine, get some E6011. Best regards, AllanPS. in my earlier postings I hadn't yet seen the Lincoln 180 AC in your tag lineaevald
Reply:No problem Allan, thanks for the info. I had assumed that since the rods were being used by the old guy with the machine that they were the proper rods! Makes sense as to why I could barely get them going! Thanks again.AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:Started a new thread with pics of todays welding session, since this was really about old rods. Thanks again all for the info. New thread: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...177#post564177AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:I just tossed about 15lbs of 6010,  it came with an old welder I had bought and who knows how long it had sat out exposed.  It welded like crap though and I got a new box of lincoln that runs much better so something in the rod or the way it was stored made it go bad.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawI just tossed about 15lbs of 6010,
Reply:I have done it a time or two in a past life when I didn't have a torch and had to get a job done by dropping 6011 in a bucket of water for just a few minutes then cutting with it, whether it is correct or not could not tell you.  The old gentleman whose place I was at suggested it, saved me about 2 hours round trip driving at the time.
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03I thought you could soak those in water and use them as cutting rods.
Reply:I have used 6010s (5P) soaked in water before- they work better than the overpriced "cutting rods" that I've tried. Use about 1-1/2 or 2 times higher current than you would use for welding.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Does this work because there is more oxygen available - easily broken off of the water molecule and all?AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's
Reply:Originally Posted by chopnhackDoes this work because there is more oxygen available - easily broken off of the water molecule and all?
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepI dunno about any complex chemical reaction enhancing the piercing operation.  I think that wet electrodes just pierce well with cranked-up current because the water soaked coating keeps the electrode wire from heating to its red hot melt-off point - as quick.Good Luck
Reply:I'm surprised nobody suggest you get a small box of 7014 or 7024 for the AC welder , these will make and artist out of you quite quickly, they start and run well and are pretty good for general maintenance and hobby work. 7018 can also be purchased with and AC designation, I assume it has a different flux makeup but I have never used it."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Thanks Kolot I did have a recommendation for 7014 I believe, but read that its basically as easy to run as 6013, just a stronger alloy, so I passed on hunting down a box. These new rods are striking up much better than the old crap.AC-180 Lincolnwelder circa '50's