1966 truck build

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This is a truck that I'm helping my brother with as far as the fabrication and welding goes. He is doing the rest of the work on his own. All the link bars and bag mounts are all built from scratch pretty much.Some welds on the three link Last edited by BuiltByBrooks; 12-27-2008 at 12:01 PM.Strive For Perfection
Reply:any front a-arm pics? nice
Reply:Originally Posted by Shadillany front a-arm pics? nice
Reply:Vary nice welds their!Morbid.
Reply:Nice work, damn nice work.....Mike
Reply:Why the crazy notches that taper in so much in the rear?  I had to look at the pictures for like 5 minutes to figure out what was going on, looked like the each notch is different in every shot.
Reply:I was kind of wondering about the frame rails over the rear axle myself.  Nice craftsmanship, fit and finish, just not sure why they appear different.On a very positive note - The GTAW work is BEAUTIFUL.Nice work.Later,Jason
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyNice work, damn nice work.....Mike
Reply:The reason the notches curve is because the frame rail curve as well the back of the frame is smaller then the main rail.Hopefully this helpsStrive For Perfection
Reply:Nice work, excellent welding!Miller Dynasty 200DX Tig Welder
Reply:It looks like the fab work is excellent.  I couldn't even dream of doing such a nice job.I always feel a little sad when I see another classic truck that'll never see the light of day again like it came from the factory"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:As stated those tig welds look awesome!!  Is the tubing/pipe all that's tig welded?Those welds behind the rear end on the frame don't look like tig.... From the pictures they don't look like a lot of penetration. Could just be camera angle or lighting though? Looks like a great truck coming to life there!Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Well Farmersamm you are gonna love my 59 Ford PU restore when I get started on it, it's all going to be original when I get done. Not to hijack the thread though so I'll start a thread in a couple days as I'm suppose to go pick it up tomorrow.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:the welds on the tube and joints, do you weld one puddle at a time or is that with a pulser? or do you go back over the weld a second time? looks clean and time consuming I can get welds looking like that but I don't know if my technique is right or not how do you do it?
Reply:STwelder--  That ought to be really nice.I hope nobody thinks I'm runnin' down the OP.  It's an age thing, and a lot of nostalgia.  I grew up around the old iron.  I'd never run down a creative project.  There's a place for the modified vehicles."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by STwelderAs stated those tig welds look awesome!!  Is the tubing/pipe all that's tig welded?Those welds behind the rear end on the frame don't look like tig.... From the pictures they don't look like a lot of penetration. Could just be camera angle or lighting though? Looks like a great truck coming to life there!
Reply:The welds on the rear of the c-notch are a little raised up thats because all my brother has is a 135 Lincoln at his house so i preheated the area a little and weaved welded it. The weld is still flat on the out sides just raised a little in the middle from the weave don't have any pics at the moment of a close up.. I'm bringing my 250dx over to weld the rest of the truck anyways the back still needs to be boxed in and alot of other thing that I couldn't weld with that crappy 135. I'll get pics next time i go over there.Last edited by BuiltByBrooks; 12-28-2008 at 12:23 AM.Strive For Perfection
Reply:Hey Brooks, Interesting project. Even going to manage to keep the six bolt wheels. Nice build.I know it's not finished yet, but I'm looking at the rear suspension design and wondering about a couple of things - torque reaction, and side loads. Torque reaction - Looking at the torque arm anchor bracket; the tube that loops over the center section. The anchor is shown tack welded to the axle tubes in post #1, top picture. Has that design been tested? Will it somehow be tied to the axle's rear cover area or pinion snout? The way it is now, connected only to the axle tubes, I question if it could hold back the twist of the axle's torque reaction.Side loads - Will the suspension have a panhard-bar  or track-bar?Pardon me if I'm jumping the gun. Maybe there is still more to build, or maybe loads will be a lot lighter than what I'm thinking; just trying to save you some grief.Good Luck
Reply:Nice Job on the fabrication and welds. I that truck body really going to rest that close to the ground. If so that would be one of the lowest low riders I have ever seen .Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepHey Brooks, Interesting project. Even going to manage to keep the six bolt wheels. Nice build.I know it's not finished yet, but I'm looking at the rear suspension design and wondering about a couple of things - torque reaction, and side loads. Torque reaction - Looking at the torque arm anchor bracket; the tube that loops over the center section. The anchor is shown tack welded to the axle tubes in post #1, top picture. Has that design been tested? Will it somehow be tied to the axle's rear cover area or pinion snout? The way it is now, connected only to the axle tubes, I question if it could hold back the twist of the axle's torque reaction.Side loads - Will the suspension have a panhard-bar  or track-bar?Pardon me if I'm jumping the gun. Maybe there is still more to build, or maybe loads will be a lot lighter than what I'm thinking; just trying to save you some grief.Good Luck
Reply:Maybe this will help but i have two mounting points on the uppers to keep it centered. Strive For Perfection
Reply:Brooks, I guess I understand the suspension theory, but I don't know how the truck will be used. What I wanted to point out is that a top mounted torque arm carries a lot of load. Loads in the range of 5000 (five thousand) foot-pounds of torque, or more, would not be unusual. But if the plan is to add more support to the bracket, it sounds like that's handled.Interesting YouTube video, the animation brings a lot of things to light. Notice how tall the rear torque-arm bracket is? A tall torque arm bracket would significantly reduce loads on the top link.The YouTube shows something else worth noting - driveshaft angle. Watch the animation around 0:24 and notice the interaction between suspension travel, housing tip, and driveshaft angle. See how the driveshaft's length and u-joint angle would have to change radically with long suspension travel? The original GM coil spring trucks had an interesting work-around for this problem. It worked so well that the drive shaft did not even use a slip to compensate for length change. As far as I know that was the only vehicle ever built without a driveshaft slip. The reason it was possible for GM to skip the slip is because the control arms shared the same centerline as the U-joint. When the suspension traveled, the drive shaft did not need to change length, because the center U-joint shared the same axis as the front control arm mounts.Something to think about in your design.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 12-28-2008 at 02:07 PM.
Reply:Brooks, it's good to see your work posted here, again.Plating the frame is good--considering the design and function.Have you considered gusseting the front 'kick' area as shown in the attached,marked-up picture?http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1230501865This area in any vehicle is the one really prone to breakage and deformation. Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:Awesome job Brooks, keep the pictures and progress coming! Can't wait to see it completed.O/A Set-Up Radnor Gauges WH26FC  Welding Torch CA25       Cutting Attachment 0 TipThat is it for now...More to come later...
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonBrooks, it's good to see your work posted here, again.Plating the frame is good--considering the design and function.Have you considered gusseting the front 'kick' area as shown in the attached,marked-up picture?http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1230501865This area in any vehicle is the one really prone to breakage and deformation.Originally Posted by Chevy-ArtAwesome job Brooks, keep the pictures and progress coming! Can't wait to see it completed.
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Reply:I almost forgot about your 66, looking sweet!!Bruce The Welding ChefLincoln Weld-Pack 3200 NORWELD StickStanford Hill Farm
Reply:nice progress !....i like-Graham-Mechanical EngineerAutosport Mechanic/Fabricator
Reply:Thanks guys!Strive For Perfection
Reply:Nice progress, keep us updated.Miller Dynasty 200DX Tig Welder
Reply:sweeeeet, nice welds, again sweeeeet.
Reply:I sure like the workmanship and the engineering.  Am looking forward to periodic updates.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:I am just wondering what welder you are using.
Reply:Originally Posted by ace4059I am just wondering what welder you are using.
Reply:Great Build! Keep us updated
Reply:Incredible work as usual Brooks. I really like the rear frame rails.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
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Reply:Great work on that truck.  Looks wicked slammed to the ground like that!I know Samm had mentioned earlier about being sad it wasn't being restored like it came out of the factory ............. I'm just glad that someone was able to keep an old truck on the road instead of going to the wrecking yard, modified or not.  Only a true rodder or restorer would even bother doing what you've done.  (Just for reference, my father has an old '63 Chevy 1/2 ton stepside that looks almost factory perfect .... until you get under the hood and take a gander at the 350 in there instead of the original 283.)  As Samm said, modifieds have their place .......... so do classics ........ and neither of those places is rustng away in a junkyard, or being cut up for scrap metal.Last edited by SpyGuy; 06-25-2009 at 01:40 AM.
Reply:Damn, you do beautiful work.  Wow!www.lindgrensupercars.comMiller Dynasty 350Miller Dynasty 200DX - retiredMiller Millermatic 210Miller Spectrum 3080Miller "Power of Blue" stool  Miller Syncrowave 180SD - retired
Reply:Frame looks killer. Read the whole thread. As for your 3 link. Will work great. You should get alot of foward bite with the third member length and angle. Might look at a rubber bushing to soften the load for better traction.Again it looks great. Building a 41 myselfAnnamel TW9Y Georgia
Reply:Originally Posted by Annamel. . .You should get alot of foward bite with the third member length and angle. . . .
Reply:nice very nice?  are you on the 67-72 chevy truck forums?Adam MMorales Ranch
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabIncredible work as usual Brooks. I really like the rear frame rails.
Reply:Looks slick, nice work.