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I am thinking about building a medium size shed using I beams. I priced the pre-made buildings and i was thinking this might be  cheaper. I was thinking 20x20 and 16 foot tall. i would appriciate any input on beam sizes or anything at all. thanks
Reply:Obviously, the bigger the better, but when horizontal real estate becomes restricted, you can always go up. Make sure you have plenty of height for shelving. Perimeter air lines in the walls spaced every 8ft or so as well as 110v outlets. Ceiling mounted outlets as well so you don't have cords everywhere.Depending on your location, some well thought out heatingA/C system.Just build it as big as you can. You WILL run out of room regardless. Just a matter of whenhttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:You can use 8" purlanes for rafters in an end wall if you put a column in the middle. Then you can use 6" purlanes to span the length of the building.I personally would plan on at least a 25'x25' building. That is only as big as a 2 car port. Also 8" purlanes will span 25' and don't cost very much over the 6" purlanes. I think you would come out better, money spent for what you get, using 8" and going for the bigger building.
Reply:What size I-beam would you use 4in. or 6in.?
Reply:Might want to at least price the preengineered buildings. You can often find them for sale, never assembled because it is much more work than the sales brochure makes it out to be to build them.
Reply:I can't find my beam chart right now. Understand that wide flanges are listed by height and weight. A quick look online shows me one size for 4" beams, and 6" beams from 9 lb/ft to 25 lbs/ft. There are also 8" beams in the 10-24 lb/ft range ( and up), 10 " beams in the  12-26 lb / ft range ( and up), 12" beams in the 12-16 lb/ft range, 14" ones in 22lb and 26 lbs/ft, and 16" in 26 lb/ ft as well. For the same weight, a taller beam will almost always support more load, so a W16x26 will carry signifigantly more weight than that W6x25, yet weigh almost the same. Many places base cost on steel weight, so many times light weight taller beams can cost almost the same as heavy shorter ones.Since the recomendation was for 6" or 8" purlins, I'd bet a 4" wide flange is too light for a 20-25' span. I'd probably want to look at something at least 8" if not 10-12" myself for the supporting beam since it will carry 1/2 the load of the whole roof. With out my tables, I can't look up linear foot loads for the beams however..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I don't know what you do but I wouldn't build any shop that couldn't accommodate a lift... unless you don't work on cars ever and despise the thought of it... then make the ceilings short to save on heating costs.
Reply:Right now, here, a site built framed building is cheaper. Might want to investigate that too.
Reply:Originally Posted by hilltop cookersI am thinking about building a medium size shed using I beams. I priced the pre-made buildings and i was thinking this might be  cheaper. I was thinking 20x20 and 16 foot tall. i would appriciate any input on beam sizes or anything at all. thanks
Reply:For a shop on a budget, have you seen this site?http://www.armourmetals.com/pole-barns.htmlJeff
Reply:Based on the questions the OP is asking, he needs to get professional help.Size of the I-Beams is ONLY one of the factors.A "pre-engineered" metal structure often times provides the most sq. ft./dollar spent.Frankly, it doesn't sound like the OP has put much real thought into what he really wants and how much he's prepared to spend.  With that said, it has a lot to do with the local codes for the region he's planning to build in.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by jbaFor a shop on a budget, have you seen this site?http://www.armourmetals.com/pole-barns.htmlJeff
Reply:There are no building codes or permits required in my area. This will be out in the country where we are still able to do what we want, how we want
Reply:I've built Mueller buildings for nearly 30 years now. I just finished another one day before yesterday. I have always gone with wht Mueller says for what to use where. You would use different size "I" beams for end walls than you would in a middle span. As I said before, you will only be spanning 20' and could use 8" purlanes for the rafters. If the building was longer than 25' and you needed a center rafter, you would use an 8"x10#, "I" beam. At 25' you would use a 10"x10#, "I" beam and at 30' you would use a 12"x19# "I": beam. Even though you could use 6" purlanes, I would still use 8". There is not much difference in price but there is way more strength in them. Good luck and if you have any questions just PM me. Bob