Options for welding bed

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I've been working around some ideas for how to modify the flatbed on my work truck.  I'd welcome suggestions that anyone has for what's worked for them in the past....Or obvious blunders I'm making here.The first image is a quick sketch, using Google Sketchup, of what I have today.Scale in the picture is pretty accurate. Big box is the welder.  Small boxes are Knaack boxes welded to the deck.  Funky shaped box is a cable rack I scavenged from my welder's trailer.  Figured it'd be good for hanging cords and lead from if I have to move on site.  Everything goes in teh lock boxes between jobs.   By the way, my thanks to whoever posted the info on SketchUp to this forum.  I'm slowly learning to use it, and even if it's not the easiest, you can't beat free software.2nd picture is the inset Oxy-Acetylene bottle rack.  It's missing details, like the restraints to keep the bottles in place. But they'll be there when I'm done.  Bottom of the recess won't extend any lower than the truck frame rails.  I'm doing this because I hate climbing into the bed to mount gauges, adjust pressure, etc.3rd picture is my first attempt at somekind of overhead rack for ladders, and long stock.  I left it half the bed wide, so I could still easily climb onto the bed and walk around.  The worklights are in my shop, they just need mounting.  They may end up moved slightly to wherever seems least likely to get broken.Last mods I'm considering is somekind of flip down workbench and a 2" receiver so I can mount a vise, grinder, or other power tool...Is there a good way to use those stake pockets for a place to mount a workbench top?Oh, and an awning and a cooler...  The picture doesn't show it, but the deck has a gooseneck hitch recessed in the back, overtop the axle.  With the tool boxes mounted as they are, I can't use that hitch anyway right now.  The truck also has a custom fabbed 2" receiver in the rear. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Mount the boxes under the bed, make your ladder/steel rack removable,
Reply:Tool boxes are top opening.  I haven't come up with a good way to mount them under the bed yet.  Some huge drawer slides, rated for several hundred pounds maybe.  One box is full of lead and the other is full of tools.I thought about making the top pieces of the rack bolt together, and just welding vertical columns in the back in place. Originally Posted by flatbustedbrokeMount the boxes under the bed, make your ladder/steel rack removable,
Reply:I like your layouts, but the only thing I'd suggest is scooting your Knaack boxes towards the welder some. I use the back 1'6"to 2' of my flatbed for alot of fitting and fabbing, so those boxes would be in my way.Hillbilly Fabworks
Reply:I've done several racks for long materials. You can never have enough rings for tie downs. I prefer to use ratchet straps with steel so that means setting the loops in such a way so as to let the strap  tighten down. I like to set one ring low on the upright and others on the main rails up top. That way I can hook to the top, go around the materials and then down to the ratchet and crank everything tight.The picts of the truck is the one we did for my old boss several years ago. He's adding 36" undermount boxes on both sides up front of the wheels (same location of your bottles on the pass side).I'd look at mounting the lights under the rack so as to protect them best.Hope some of this helps. Attached Images
Reply:I hear you.  My truck has a 2" receiver that sticks out from the bumper, and I quickly stopped working off the back of teh truck after busting my shins a couple times.  Now I work off the side of the truck, where that funky cable rack is mounted, near the faceplace of the welder.It's a little small, and that's why I was thinking about a flip down work surface of some kind.... Originally Posted by BNFI like your layouts, but the only thing I'd suggest is scooting your Knaack boxes towards the welder some. I use the back 1'6"to 2' of my flatbed for alot of fitting and fabbing, so those boxes would be in my way.
Reply:DSW, those pics are a big help.  Thanks.  Looks like the rack on that truck is long enough to hold a full 20' stick of pipe.  I like the stop on the front end.  What are the front vertical supports mounted to under the front bumper?Thanks for the suggestion of using ratchet straps.  I have some cheap ones, but thinking about it, I think I'll invest a few dollars in some heavy duty ones that are permanently mounted to the rack...The lights will be on swivels, so I should be able to mount them underneath, inside of the framework somewhere...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:That rack will hold 25' lengths if required and not hang off more than 6" in the back IIRC. On the truck in the picts we made a C channel sub bumper that the front rack came down on and then mounted the factory bumper to that. On the new chassis we just mounted that body to, I'm making a mount that will go in front of the existing bumper and will use the mounting holes to hold the bumper and base to the frame. He decided pulling the whole bumper wasn't worth the effort for what little weight goes up there. I found a pict of the old mount as best as could be seen. Oh the passenger side makes the most sense for the rack, the front mount doesn't block your view in on coming trafic that way.With the ratchet straps, mount the ratchets where they are most accesable. I see lots of guys with the ratchets up at the top of the rack. They wouldn't last a week with me. All the rings were originally set up so you could stand in the bed and pull friction straps towards you to get them as tight as posible ( for lumber) Later we added rings on the outside so I could stand on the ground and tighten ratchet straps around pipe and rebar. I set the loops by clamping them in place and trying out how well I could tighten straps and if I could reach them easily with the rack loaded. One thing I would add is steps on the front rack so you can climb it to strap stuff down. I wanted that originally and the boss ixnayed that, He's rethinking that idea now, the guys tend to want to stand on the hood since only the boss is 6'7" tall and doesn't need a ladder to do that (or climb the rack like a monkey or shimmy out on the material).You might also consider a small ladder or step mount at the side or rear. I've got a bad back and climbing in and out of the bed of that truck hurts. I made a step that went in the 2" reciever so I could get in and out eaiser, I've seen cable and step ladders on utility trucks to do the same thing with high beds.Oh one more thing if you want a work surface. If you mount recievers in the side or rear of the deck you can slide out some 2" tube to support a larger work area. The work table could fold up or down for storage. We had a tailgate that usually got folded down 180 deg, but the original intension was to have a work area. We found it a bit high for most of us. Attached Images
Reply:Appreciate the extra explanation about the front end.  Ditto on the ladder.  I slipped off the bed a couple weeks ago and hurt my left knee.  Took a couple days for it to stop aching.  Lucky I didn't tear something really bad.Here's some updated shots with some revisions based on DSW's pictures.  Again, there's detail missing, cause I don't have the patience to model all the little pieces. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:The expanded metal mesh is nice but has a few issues. We considered that for the front part of the rack figuring guys would walk up there. With the mesh in place you are limited to straping the full width of the rack. If its only one or two pieces you may have a bit of dificulty getting the straps tight especially small thin material like flat bar. If you want to go completely around the steel with the strap you need the strap in place 1st.If the rack is open you can just wrap the strap around the piece after it's loaded.  You might beable to leave a few open gaps or channels that let you get straps tight to the material and suck it up against the uprights. Again a lot of this is figured with us loading short lengths up front and some lengths on the wide rear rack on our truck. Also we frequently tied multiple "piles" of material to go to more than one job, that way we didn't have to break everything down to unload the materials needed at one job. A narrow rack will help to limit some of these issues and they may not even matter. I'd have to mock it up and play with it abit and see how well the mesh would work.One good thing about the mesh is that you don't have to worry about hitting cross supports with odd lengths.One other thing I saw the other day. Guy at the WAWA had a roller mounted just behind and below the rear rack for his ladder. You set the ladder on the roller and push it up untill you can't reach any higher at which point it flops down on the rack. I've thought about something like this for my personal truck as I load long ladders by myself frequently. I wished I had the camera with me to shoot a pict. Oh speaking of ladders, you can hang an A ladder from the side of the rack if needed with a couple of hooks.
Reply:I agree on moving the boxes towards the front, and like the idea of dropping the bottle rack down for easier access.  Can the welder be moved and further forward, almost up against the wall for the cab?  Use the stake pockets on the driver's side to mount your hinges for a flip-down worksurface, move the cable rack to the opposite side of the truck underneath the pipe rack.  You should have enough room off the left rear of the truck combined with the stake pocket table for some large pieces.
Reply:DSW, sounds like something like this thing, only for ladders instead of canoes...http://www.orsracksdirect.com/maine-...oe-loader.htmlThat the idea?
Reply:Yes, thats the same idea I saw, but for a ladder. How practical it is in reality I have no idea. As I frequently work by myself I'm always on the lookout for things that make my life easier. I'm constantly looking at utility trucks and so on as to how they have things mounted on the trucks looking for better ideas, or answers to questions I haven't thought of yet.One of the best I saw one time was an Electric company service truck with a coffee machine and microwave in one side box. Guy already had a generator on the truck, so now he could have all the hot coffee and soup he wanted when it was cold out. Who needs a thermos? All he needed was a small fridge.
Reply:Now THAT would be slick, DSW.  Ya got the power right there, may as well use it....
Reply:Thats what I thought. I'm not a coffee drinker, but I've been keeping my eyes open at the thrift store for a small mirowave that will fit in the 16" deep side boxes of my current truck. I figure I can grab one cheap from some kid coming home from college or after the summer when realtors clean out the summer shore homes of stuff people leave. Used to keep a small pot in the truck and heat soup over the kerosene jobsite heater.Guy I worked for 2 years ago used to haul a mini fridge to the job site and leave it there until we were done, so we could always have cold drinks in the summer. It'd be great to rig one on the truck.
Reply:I don't see any cup holders.
Reply:Is it going to be removed easy?? For the gooseneck. Or are you getting rid of that ??Millermatic DVIMillermatic 251Older buzz box Cheap 120 welder
Reply:Hey Dab, for what it's worth. You will eventually move to the back of the truck. The first time you work on something 7 ft long and want to vise it up. You will be figureing out how to move every thing around. Your a welder, modify your hitch. If you are building a bed, design it to incorporate the hitch in a un obstructive way. I loved my hitch sticking out 6 inches, It was my step up to the bed.Lincoln Ranger 8                        Lincoln 175                          Drill pressLincoln 225 mig                            Plasma                              8 ft brake        52" jump shear
Reply:Thanks gclamp,I've been rolling some ideas around in my head.  Maybe recessing the toolboxes down into the deck, so just the lids are above the surface of the deck.  This makes the contents easier to get to from the ground, clears the deck for stacking stuff on, and gives me access to the gooseneck hitch set in the deck.  Of course, using the a gooseneck will require redesigning the rack I drew up in this post.  I don't have a use for the gooseneck at the moment, but I hate to render it un-useable...Re-designing the hitch on the back is also on the list of projects.  Like you, I use it for a step up onto the bed.  I'm also looking at installing a receiver in the deck so I can hot-swap various bench-mounted tools; a vise, a grinder, a wire wheel....All this stuff takes is time, and I'm trying to balance finding and doing jobs that pay with projects that make work easier and more efficient.I need to make some structural repairs to the bed, get the bottle rack done, install, some lights, and make it easier to haul ladders and long stock.  Once those are done, I can start adding cup holders, microwaves, coffee makers, and a stereo system...  Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Adapting the rack to clear the aft end of the bed shouldn't be too dificult. I'd add a set of uprights just behind the machine, and then consider breaking the top rack there and attaching with bolts. The rear supports could go into reciever sockets and get bolted  so they slide out easy.The forward section, the narrow track forward of the windshield to the upright, on the rack I posted, is attached with bolts on each end. Boss was originally affraid one of the guys would hit something and bend the front support like one guy did on his other truck. He wanted it all together with bolts so he could pull it off and fix it. (They never did manage to whack that, They swtched ends and F'd up the rear bumper twice.)
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doI've been rolling some ideas around in my head.  Maybe recessing the toolboxes down into the deck, so just the lids are above the surface of the deck.  This makes the contents easier to get to from the ground, clears the deck for stacking stuff on, and gives me access to the gooseneck hitch set in the deck.  Of course, using the a gooseneck will require redesigning the rack I drew up in this post.  I don't have a use for the gooseneck at the moment, but I hate to render it un-useable... Re-designing the hitch on the back is also on the list of projects.  Like you, I use it for a step up onto the bed.  I'm also looking at installing a receiver in the deck so I can hot-swap various bench-mounted tools; a vise, a grinder, a wire wheel....All this stuff takes is time, and I'm trying to balance finding and doing jobs that pay with projects that make work easier and more efficient.I need to make some structural repairs to the bed, get the bottle rack done, install, some lights, and make it easier to haul ladders and long stock.  Once those are done, I can start adding cup holders, microwaves, coffee makers, and a stereo system...
Reply:Is it a good idea to put the welding maching on top of the oxygen bottles, against the cab?
Reply:Can't recess the boxes completely flush because the padlocks recessed into the sides of the box won't be accessible.  I suppose I could fabricate a different way to lock the boxes, but I like the design of the padlock recesses on Knaack boxes.David wyatt, not sure what you mean by welding machine on top of the oxygen bottles.  The welder is staying where it's mounted because I don't have ready access to a way to lift it.  Just getting it there, marking the mounting holes, moving it to drill, and finally bolting it into place was a major pain.I also set it away from the headache rack to make acess to the inside of the machine easy.  Granted, most of the important stuff is on the right(rear facing) side, but I'd never block acess to both sides of the machine.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Hey Dab,  your designs are great as well as all the replied suggestions. If the majority of your work centers around one type of welding, say pipe line..etc., a rigid fixed bed will do. But if you provide all types of welding/fab, I would allow for easy reconfiguration to suite different jobs.  What software are you using for the sketch ups you posted? they kick a88s!Miller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:Dab, can you mount the knock boxes somewhat like you have the tanks.  This way they are lower but not flush.  You will still be able to open the top and side of the box and have it a level that work from standing on the ground.Software for drafting is Google Sketchup, which someone else recommended on this forum.  here's a link to the google webpage for it.http://sketchup.google.com/Should have some photos posted later this week, as I think I'll have some time to actually work on the truck bed this week. Originally Posted by waginHey Dab,  your designs are great as well as all the replied suggestions. If the majority of your work centers around one type of welding, say pipe line..etc., a rigid fixed bed will do. But if you provide all types of welding/fab, I would allow for easy reconfiguration to suite different jobs.  What software are you using for the sketch ups you posted? they kick a88s!
Reply:Thanks, I'm mulling this item over.  Right now I have one box on each side of the truck.  Cables in one, and oxy-acetylene stuff in the other.  The only complication with recessing the boxes into the deck, is that I have fuel filler necks on one side of the truck to work around.  They need to be re-habbed anyway, so I might relocate them to the recess where the goosneck hitch ball is currently mounted.  I' don't have a need for the gooseneck right now, so it's an option.  If I do that, I'll be able to recess one box on each side of the truck.Too many projects going at once for now.  Will get to some of the truck work this week, so stay tuned... Originally Posted by partagasDab, can you mount the knock boxes somewhat like you have the tanks.  This way they are lower but not flush.  You will still be able to open the top and side of the box and have it a level that work from standing on the ground.
Reply:Hey Dab, was kinda thinking about your truck. Ya know, it's really hard to have a truck of all trades and still be real efficient at 1 trade. It kind of seems like you are going to have to put your boxes under the bed if you want to deal with a goose neck. Dayton is subject to it's share of snow in the winter. Snow and rain are the 2 main reasons I didn't like top load tool boxes. That and I hated digging through every thing to find what I wanted. Flip the boxes on their sides and add a chain to the door so it opens down and while you are fishing for what ever, you have a place to set stuff.Lincoln Ranger 8                        Lincoln 175                          Drill pressLincoln 225 mig                            Plasma                              8 ft brake        52" jump shear
Reply:hey, just a small thought.put the cross bars of your rack on top of the ones that run length ways so you can get some forklift forks in there if required.G
Reply:So, I made some progress on the recessed oxy-acetylene rack for the truck this weekend.Need to put a floor on it, fabricate some security and hold down system, and hit it with a coat of paint..  More photos to follow. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:A_DAB_will_do, I have used 6" channel & chains to secure bottles for many years. Attached Images
Reply:I agree, 6" channel with chain is about the best bottle rack you can get!  It's about all I ever use anymore.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......