Contemplations on a Dakota Bed

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Hi again, I haven’t posted lot but I am a regular readerHere we have my 2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab. I didn’t think I really needed to pull my drop-in bed liner more than once a year to sweep debris that may have gotten trapped between the bed liner and bed. After removing the liner earlier this week, I noticed some bubbled paint and commenced to pressure wash the bed. I came to a patch of bubbled paint on the right fender and suddenly I realized that I was staring at the top of my right rear tire.  Now I have a conundrum.  I do not have the skills or really the equipment to work with sheet metal in thicknesses like this. So I come to you guys for advice. 1st pic is of the bed overall2nd pic is the two spots on the left side of the bed, while not the worst of them, the one at the fender and the floor I can be see bubbling on the inside of the wheel well as well. 3rd pic is of the front of the right fender4th pic is the worst offender, the rear of the right fenderI have a feeling I need someone with a plasma torch and a TIG machine in order to be able to properly cut the offending areas out and patch them with new metal. Seeing how there’s 4 areas all roughly the size of my hand, give or take, I’m debating the cost effectiveness of this route. If there’s anyone here who does this kind of work that could maybe tell me what this might cost to have done? I don’t have a clue how much it would cost to have this patched because I haven’t found anyone near me besides a body shop that might have any interest and I fear what a body man would charge. I don’t feel like I need body shop perfection because it’s all going to get two and possibly 3 coats of Herculiner over it when it’s all done.My other options would be to buy a new stock bed, or to put a mini flatbed on it, either build my own or buy a custom one. A new condition stock bed from a junkyard can be had for about $500 to $600. Out of curiosity I contacted M.H. Eby Co because they’re not too far from me, about a custom aluminum flatbed. As much as I’d love to have something like that, their most basic style bed is still more than a little out of my price range at $2800 plus installation. Now, I’ve also contemplated building my own flatbed. If I were to build it would most likely end up being a steel frame with a wood deck, but what I don’t know is if I could possibly build such a thing so that it would weigh the same or less than a stock bed so as not to cut into my payload.  And then too as much as I’d love to customize my truck like that I also have to consider the $350 I spent on an Undercover brand hard tonnau back in January that would be completely negated by a custom flatbed.So my questions are, is the surgery to keep this bed worth the effort? Or would I be better to replace it? If I replace, should I keep it stock to utilize my tonnau which is so wonderful to have in the winter. Likewise, would it be foolhardy for an amateur welder such as myself to undertake the construction of a flatbed, especially for a compact truck? Ive had the pleasure of looking over several flatbed construction threads on here and I think it may be within my capability but I haven't been able to come up with a materials cost estimate or a weight estimate for a steel/wood bed, yet either. Attached ImagesHobart Stickmate LX AC/DC buzzboxLincoln SP-100 MIGMid-size O/A setup with heating tips and cutterJet 5"x6" Horizontal/Vertical BandsawAtlas 15" drill press
Reply:if it was me I would cut it out myself using a cut off wheel or air nibbler then cut my patches and mig them in if you have a mig, A mig can do this job easily with the right person behind the gun, that is what I would do, then I would wash it good prime it and rattle can it and put a rubber bed mat in it and then put my undercover on it,
Reply:You have the tools to fix this your lil mig or even the stick (6013).Disconnect the battery, cut out the rust, make sure you are back to good metal, grind the paint off around the cut out, patch it, clean it, prime it(inside and out), paint it (spray bomb with a good automotive quality) and your done. When welding the patch back in just do small stitches and let it cool between welds to keep it from warping or even braze it in this should be an easy fix and a new learning experience. Just go slow let every thing cool. Another words take your time. You could also check a local vocational school see if they would be willing to take it on as a project for their auto body class.
Reply:I had thought of the vocational school thing and I called the one that's about 4 miles from me but they dont take outside work because of "liability issues". I think I may attempt it, most likely with something like 1/16 6013 in my buzz box mainly because I have virtually no experience with the MIG. I inherited it from my dad whos finally back at home but still recovering from a brain aneurysm. Anyhow, it need gas, and a new hose at the moment. Now if I do attempt this I think Im going to try to take the bed off, for the simple fact that making sparks that close to a 24 gal gas tank makes me nervous enough to shy me away from attempting this. Is that reasoning justified? Then too, I wouldnt have to worry about slag burning holes in my $200 Bridgestone Duelers either. My other concern is that with at least 3 of the 4 areas, the rust is on both sides of the 90 deg. angle which means I need to make right angle patches and I dont have a whole heck of alot of experience forming sheet. Im not even sure what gauge the bed is made from. By now I probably sound like a whiny suburbanite, lol but this is just how my brain works. I am encouraged by your comments as I do want to learn more about fabrication, and worst case I can go to the junkyard and get another one lol.Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC buzzboxLincoln SP-100 MIGMid-size O/A setup with heating tips and cutterJet 5"x6" Horizontal/Vertical BandsawAtlas 15" drill press
Reply:Keep in mind that you will most likely find more rust as you go. It is certainly a doable project with a bit of practice. The mig would be my suggestion, as you will have more control than with stick, but I know several guys who could do it with stick also. The sides are most likely double wall, so  you will end up working from inside the bed most likely, as access from the other side will be almost impossible. The sheet metal work shouldn't be too bad, just cut individual pieces and weld them up. Some good sized solid angle in a solid vise and a hammer will make a decent brake to bend the 90's if you practice a bit. the curve on the wheel well I would do a 2 pieces, a flat and a curved vertical.If you can get the bed off and support it while you work, go ahead. Remember that if the bed is rusted, so most likely are the mounting bolts. Start spraying them with penetrating oil and look at a few of the posts on loosening stuck fasteners. They can be a real PITA to get off as lots of times they are almost impossible to easily cut due to the location.As far as building the bed, I seriously doubt you can easily keep it light enough to match stock. If you think about wood, go with marine grade ply it will be lighter than the old 2x floors. If you can find a clean bed thats not a bad idea, but You may find many to be about the same condition in a yard. I don't know about were you are, near me most of the yards are long gone as the land became way to valuable for those sorts of places. Prior to that however I knew a few yards that had some super prices, especially on damaged parts. If you can find a truck with a smashed body, you may be able to cut out "donor" pieces and save some fab work. Depends on the yard. Some of those I dealt with would want primo prices on anything, even if it was on its way to the crusher. several other yards had a "sale" area. You paid by the pound or a flat rate for what you could carry, on parts from cars they would crush in the next day or so. These were usually the ones they had already pulled the engines and all "usable" parts from, mostly older or heavily damaged cars. A bit of negotiating might get you a deal if you find a junked bed.Get some sheet metal and start practicing, say 16 gauge. Good luck..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Bobcat     To answer your question is it worth fixing, what it comes down to is how much money are you willing to spend and what kind of final product do you want? If you are just trying to keep the sections from rusting further and restore some structure to it, you could do that yourself with limited tools by using panel adhesives to 'glue' in patches. Most likely that steel is in the 20 guage area.  If you want to restore it back to 'like new' you are going to spend some money since you lack both the tools and the expertise to do it yourself so you will have to farm it out and I have no idea what the Hourly shop rate is in the Cleveland area- probably in the $60/hr range if not more and there are several hours work there plus materials and paint is not cheap. At least it is blue that is a bit cheaper than say a red.     If you are looking to have it like new AND can get a used bed for the prices you mentioned that would be your cheapest route. However I did a quick check of the junkyards in the Cleveland area via an online search and prices are in the $1500 to $2000 range for a bed that is in good shape. Remember too it is highly unlikely you find it in that color- so add the cost of a repaint to the junkyard bed.. Bottom line is unless you can tolerate seeing patches and DIY it is going to be an expense to repair.
Reply:Hate to rain on your parade, but patching those areas and getting lasting results is going to be a real PITA.  There is seam sealer in all the joints where your rust issues are and it will burn away and be hard to replace.  I have the same problem around my wheel wells, only mine is just the paint peeling.  It hasn't got to the rusty hole stage yet. If yours is the 6ft bed then it weighs 380lbs including tail gate and lights if I remember correctly.  I had mine off last fall to pound out dents and bed line it.  I have also considered the flat bed option, just haven't made up my mind yet.
Reply:the seam sealer isn't an issue as that can be bought at any parts house . did a search prices range from 250 to 3000 depending on yard and condition. ere is the link to check http://car-part.com/index.htm  it might take you a lil while to figure out the grades and hours of work to bring it back but its a start
Reply:Boost - Im glad to know Im not the only one. Im sry to hear that its going to be that hard to keep what Ive got. Let me know if you ever find anything about aftermarket beds for this size truck. The guy from Eby didnt seem phased by the fact that it wasnt something they usually carry. There is a "job shop" around the corner from me, Horizon Metals, but like you said 131re, I really dont have a clue as to an hourly, lookin at their website Id bet itd be at least 60/hr and I dont even know if theyd even take on something this small. Thanks for the link flatbusted, thats actually the site I was using last night to look up stuff. Best site Ive found so far for such things.I spent part of this pretty afternoon staring at it again, and Im still on the fence about what to do. As far as a decent bed at $500-600, I would have to drive an hour and a half each way to get one but to save half I certainly would, if I go that route. According to the parts network site I was on since mines the Quad Cab my bed is 5'3". Thankfully there are still a handful of junkyards around here, Im going to do some investigating next week, maybe I'll get lucky and find one I can cut pieces off of. As far as getting the bed off I have a little skidsteer and nylon straps which was going to be my crane with which to remove it.I love my little truck. I really dont want to relegate it to "beater" status. I plan on having this truck for a loong time, as I dont have the foggiest idea when I'll be able to afford another one, plus I really like it in general. Id like to get at least another 10 years or rack up the odo to 200K (its got about 78 now), unless gas gets too expensive, whichever comes first. For what it is and can do its not bad though 17-18 city 20-21 hwy. Id really like a fix that'll last. I like the thought of the Eby or something similar even though my sister thinks theyre ugly. I dont really want to spend 2-3 grand but at least it wont rot in the winter salt, lol.Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC buzzboxLincoln SP-100 MIGMid-size O/A setup with heating tips and cutterJet 5"x6" Horizontal/Vertical BandsawAtlas 15" drill press
Reply:To be honest, I wouldn't even be worrying about this one.   Just knock the loose paint off,,,,   spray everything heavy with rust converter, slop some primer/paint on, then re-install the bedliner.   It'll probably last another ten years,,,,,   and face it, the bedliner is probably stronger than the bed, anyway.   If you are worried about water/salts getting up thru the holes, after the bedliner is installed jam a caulking gun with silicone in it up there, seal the hole to the bedliner.  Ten years from now, if you still have the truck, and assuming the then current communist government allows you to keep the truck, you can worry about a new bed.
Reply:Bobcat          If you do get a chance to check out some boneyards-hopefully you won't be too dissapointed. Their 'good' is probably like yours if not worse. My bets are to get a nice ie rust free bed you are going to pay closer to $2k at definitely at least $1k. Car-part is a good link and who I used to give those prices. I don't know if there are any places in E. Oh that sell beds from down south or out west- but you might do some digging around and see if you can find one-I know there are several over here in Pa like that.   You haven't alluded to what you have in the way of tools but if you have a compressor you can run a small abrasive cut off wheel to cut out those rusted thru areas. As I mentioned those panel adhesives will allow you to 'glue' in a patch panel and also seal at the same time so the resealing is not as big of an issue. How to use those products can be found on line at the adhesives company websites- Lord Fusor is one complete with videos.   As someone else suggested- sand off the non rusted thru but rusty areas-use a rust convertor like Picklex 20 or Must for Rust-to convert and stop the rust- prime it and paint it. Since it is going to be hidden by the bed liner- even brush the paint on if you lack a spraygun- you do want to top coat primer .  Such a repair should last until you need or want to replace the truck-or in the meantime you find a perfect used bed. The 5'3" bed is going to be a bit harder to find in all probability.    If you use adhesives the need to remove the bed is also most likely eliminated and you might find out due to the salt on the roads- those bolts aren't going to want to break free without a lot of cussing and some heat!
Reply:Another thing you can do is get a hood or fender from a wrecked truck or car and use it to practice welding on. Cut it in pieces and weld them back together. Cut the bigger flat areas and save them for use on your truck and use the scrap for practicing on. Wrecked body panels are easy to come by from a body shop.