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Hello my name is mike an iam new to this kinda stuff !!!!!! i have a helmet but i would like to get the right one for mig an tig welding an i also use a plasma cutter i see u can spend alot of money for one just wanted to get some input so i get the right one thanks mike
Reply:I like the 4-1/2 x 5-1/4" window with a gold plated glass lens.An auto dark would be nice, but $$$$.One online source has cheapos starting at $10, http://www.weldingdepot.com/Here's one reference from OSHA on the reccomended shade number for various processes and amperage levels.
Reply:Should have mentioned, I have the Huntsman plastic model (951 ?) with a shade 9 for most TIG, and it works great for me. The fiber model (451 ?) may be lighter in weight.
Reply:Buy a nice Huntsman and put a gold lense in it. There is no need for this auto dark crap.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Not to throw this offtopic, but what's the advantage to the gold lens over a standard clear protective cover?
Reply:I find that the gold lenses reflect alot of the heat , keeping off your face. But on the downside they smudge easy and when used with a clear plate that is not perfectly clean the light can reflect off the gold lens to the clear lens and then back to your eyes creating double vision For helmet choices try to chose a name brand like huntsman or jackson, if you get a huntsman take an old tillman tig glove cut the cuff off, and split it to make it long and pop rivet it to the bottom of the hood for more neck protection. But whatever brand of helmet you chose get one with quality headgear or you will curse it till the end.Last edited by weldingman24; 03-24-2007 at 01:33 AM.
Reply:Im a big fan of the gold lens, makes it alot easier to see IMO.I have a jackson fixed hood and it does great, but since I would really benefit from an auto hood im lookin at a miller elite.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by maxyedorNot to throw this offtopic, but what's the advantage to the gold lens over a standard clear protective cover?
Reply:I have trouble with auto dark helmets activating when doing low amp tig, with the Accu-Strike chin activated helmet I'm not worried about that problem since I'm controlling it. It also gives me a clear lens before I start the weld, not a shade 3. I've also heard that auto dark hoods slow down in cold weather. There's just two many concerns for me to gamble my eyesight on. This helmet is made in the good old USA and true Yankee ingenuity. Take a look at this U tube video: Attached Images
Reply:That youtube video is such a crock. That video is sped up when it's on the hippie welder and slowed down to normal speed when it shows the other guy. Just look at how fast the hippie's hair is blowing and how fast the sparks are dropping and how fast the curtain is blowing. The helmet might work good, but that video is bogus on how much faster production would be.
Reply:I have about setteled on the Jackson Nex-Gen in the HaloX hood. Either that or just the lens and my own hood since the lens will fit wide view hoods. And its not really about the need here either, is it? I am not a production welder, but I do build rails and fences some times, and it is nice for welding pickets. I already have neck problems from years of flopping. And as far the speed and trusting it to darken in time, the uv and what ever that other one is protection is there all the time. So "they" say!Last edited by mooseye; 10-15-2007 at 06:30 PM.SA200,Ranger8,Trailblazer251NT,MM250,Dayton225AC,T D-XL75,SpoolMate3545SGA100C,HF-15-1 RFCS-14 When I stick it, it stays stuck!
Reply:What I'd like to see in a helmut is a very close fitting almost a mask type (with breathers) and goggle style lens holder. Similar to the old top fuel masks worn in the early 60's. I tried to buy one to modify but they are now collectables and cost 10 times what they did back then. I do a lot of hotrod stuff and wear glasses. I have 3 different reading glasses that I use for magnification. The helmut mounted ones are too hard to change. It seems that I get all the stuff that needs TIG weld repair down inside somewhere and to squeeze me and the helmut down there is a big project. I've even had to position the helmut then crawl into position and slide into the helmut. I grew up without auto dark and have now gone back to my old faithfull Jackson. I keep trying the auto dark but the first time I get "zinged" it goes back on the rack. It would be really cool to have a lightweight strap-on foot pedal too. A velco strap so you could strap it to your foot, elbow or knee as required.
Reply:I primarily use an old pipeliners pancake with a shade 10 autodark lens. I do a lot of stuff that requires a lot of tacking before welding it out and it's just right for me. I also have a 27 year old Jackson, the first lightweight they came out with, but the lens won't fit, and a fibremetal that is identical to the Jackson. Both are flip front, but I too have neck problems now and the light pancake works well for me. It also fits into places the hood will never go. I used to get my eyes burned very frequently in my younger days. I had to get glasses at 25 and my eye doctor recommended UV coating. I've been using it ever since, now 22 years, and have burned my eyes zero times since I got the glasses. I actually plan to get a 3-n-1 Jackson here soon. HF's variables are not bad. I tried them just to see how one works. I got the extended warranty on them so it's like having a new hood all the time, lol. But way too much trouble to drive over there and get a replacement. Lose 2 - 3 hours depending on traffic.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:thing i learned about autoshades. (one of the most commonly missunderstood pieces of technology.)the shading function controls the amount of VISIBLE light.this is completely seperate from the UV light which is filtered ALL THE TIME, seperately, by a non electronic UV filter. thus even a non functioning broken autoshade will protect your eyes from damage. it will just be very bright. |
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