picture frame

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hey guys i am making an 8x10 picture frame out of 3/4" square tube.  The frame is made to hold 8x10 matte with a 5x7 picuture in the center.  I just took the insides out of a picture frame, (the glass matte and backing) and am going to use it in my new frame.  the dilemma i am running into is how do i get the matte glass and backing into the picture frame.  I had thought about cutting like a descently thick cut in the middle of all the square tubing, weld the top and two sides together and then slide the matte glass and backing in and weld on the end, but if i weld that on with the paper on the inside it would heat up to much and the paper would probably change colors.  Someone, please give me some ideas or pictures if you have a past project.  thanks chris
Reply:My wife ownes a frame shop. She just read your questions and suggests you go to a frame shop in your area and look at the profile of an "aluminum" frame and go from there. I'd look at using angle instead of square tube. It would look the same from the outside.Timmer
Reply:i thought about using angle, but i wanted the back to be boxed in as well but thanks for the idea, i am just confused about how i could go and do this
Reply:Change colors? Like from paper to charcoal dust and ash? Welding needs to be done complete before adding paper.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Thats my dilemma is how am i going to get all that stuff in after welding? and this is the only way i could think of getting the glass and stuff in so it wont move around
Reply:Cut the slot all the way through the top then you can slide it in and out to change the pic and if its hung up no will see it.
Reply:^^-- What he said.  If you need to make the frame "complete" all the way around, make a small thin cover plate to cover the slot, and bolt it down.
Reply:I thought about that but the problem is it needs to be a tight fit so the picture wont slide around in the matte. thats why i was going to slide it in the little channel and then cut little slits for those things you turn on the back of it to lock it from moving
Reply:y dont u cut the inside corner in and experement in how deep the cut should be theoreticly u should be able to trim out like an eighth inch from the inside corner and then run a pice of plumbers tape across the back and it should keep it tight and also it should give u a place to hang it from and if u have some of that weather stripping u can run it around the sharp edge to keep the glass from scraching i hope this made sence if it duznt let me know and i can sketch it up and post it later agwelderold skool idealarc welderEsab multi tool Milwauake 7inch angle grinder the best of all tho the oxyacceteline set up
Reply:I think you may be going about it the wrong way....  You need to prep properly the first time.Angle is your best bet, (you can box it in afterward) but if you're Hellbent on using square tubing, you can still do it.  It's also a bit more work, but it will look VERY good too.First thing I would do is 'seal' your glass, mat, photo and backing with tape (framers tape if possible, but Painters tape should work fine as well..)  You do this so that you don't end up with Dust and fine hair between the glass and your Artwork, Photo, etc.  It also protects the glass from CHIPPING when inside the frame.(**This IS the proper way to frame something when using a RABBIT.  If you don't plan on using a RABBIT and want that 'suspended look' then this will look pretty stupid....  In that case, you would have to use 'frame clips' or something similar...**)First Things First:- Working on a Clean, flat surface (kitchen table w/ cardboard is fine) wipe down the glass SUPER well with a non-streak cleaner.- Hinge the photo to the top (BACK) of the matboard using a single piece of tape (just so it doesn't move around on you..)- In your semi-clean environment, (kitchen, not the garage) use a can of compressed air (or similar) to eliminate any dust from the Pieces of your Sandwich' (framed contents).- Lay the clean glass down carefully, then lay down the Mat (face DOWN, with the hinged photo on the back and finally add your backing.- Square everything up and turn the whole thing over.  Don't worry about fingerprints on the 'outside' of the glass as they can easily be wiped off.  It's the 'inside' that you need free of finger pints.- While looking 'down' at the Glass, mat, photo and backing, gently spray out any additional specs of dust or crap that may be there...- Once that is done, apply tape over the top edges of the glass along all 4 edges, each slightly overlapping the next.  You only WANT about 1/8" overlap on the glass while bending the rest over and around to the back, sealing the package, so no need for 3" tape !    The amount of tape on the back of the 'sandwich' doesn't really matter....OK, Now that you have your package all nicely sealed and you KNOW that it is indeed 8" x 10", you can now make your frame, or fillet or both.Remember that a properly sized 8" x 10" frame is cut with 1/8" or 3/16" allowance (width and Height) to allow PROPER fitting of a 8" x 10" MAT !  Essentially, 8 x 10 frames are never EXACT !  They HAVE to be bigger to allow 'room' for the 'package'.  It is the 'RABBIT' that covers the edges of the contents and which keeps it into place.This is why ANGLE is probably your best bet, as it already comes with it's own RABBIT.  Once the frame is cut from the angle, it is merely necessary to secure the package to the inside back of the frame.  You can also use spacers to create a nice 'Shadow box effect' as well....  (Consult your local Framing shop for examples of that..)The problem with ANGLE as a frame, is that a 2" or 3" piece of Angle is also going to have a 2" or 3" RABBIT !  Whereas a 2" or 4" wide piece of picture frame molding will normally only have a RABBIT about 1/4" to 1/2" in width.  For most small 'packages' like yours, using Angle might be 'unacceptable'.If you REALLY want to use SQUARE TUBE as a frame, you can remedy the problem with what's called a 'FILLET'.  A 'Fillet' is basically a 'Frame within a Frame' ! (also see your local Frame Shop for good examples...)  Using a FILLET might just be the ticket for your project.  In this scenario you would cut the smallest Angle you could find, to fit the package....Example:  Buy a 4' piece of 1/2" angle (8x10 frame w/ extra inches..)Cutting 45 degree mitres, measure out 4 pieces of angle;  2 @ 8"-1/8" and 2 @ 10"-1/8"  making sure that you are measuring these out using the INSIDE of the Mitre cut and NOT the outside of the cut.  Once assembled, these measurements will give you a 1/4" of play for your package.  If you want it tighter, simply reduce by 3/32" or use millimeters for a closer fit.Once that's done, simply cut your outer frame (YOUR SQUARE TUBE) to fit the fillet (tightly).  Then clamp, tack into place and put on your finish !  If you find you have any tiny gaps, simply cold fill or use a similar colored putty (available in virtually ANY color, including metallic) and seal.Hope some of this helps you and anyone who might be interested in framing....Cheers,   /Jman...
Reply:What a rabbit frame may look like:Smith AW1A Based O/A SetupMiller Dynasty 200DX w/Coolmate 3
Reply:The "fillet" mentioned above can be a piece of modelors plastic, or balsa wood glued to the inside of the completed frame if it were made of angle.  Also possibly with the tubing if properly and carefully done, and painted later as a whole unit.  You don't have to be entirely wedded to steel for the whole projectIs the glue archival, dunno.  And does it really matter?  The fillet will be on the outside of the glass anyhow.Besides..........the older ya get, the less ya kin see anyway"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:That's pretty cool there 7A749 !  Nice job there, for sure...Like FarmerSamm say's....  It's always mindful' to be careful about the stuff you frame !  I've pulled out photos from so called 'professional picture framers' only to find that they used cardboard mats, NON-UV reflective glass and glues or tapes for binding things inside of picture frames....I've literally had them 'fall apart' in my hands once the backing came off...  The solvents and lignen in ALL adhesives will eventually rot your photos, clippings and Artwork away....  It's best to use a copy, or at least an ARCHIVAL method of framing a keepsake.... (Rag Mats, Mulberry Paste or Fine Archival Tape with UV protected glass, etc, etc...)Cheers,/FC...